Very, very dirty seats – test 13 cleaning products
The testing ground – the third row of seats of the editorial Largus, which we once removed from the car and placed in the basement because it was not needed. It is time to work on it, too.
The fabric upholstery is easy to get dirty. Spilled coffee, smeared chocolate chips. And when the younger members of the crew get involved… No mop can do it – a serious approach is needed.
We divided the cloth surface into sectors, assigning a personal section to each checked preparation. We mixed melted chocolate crumbs and chips with stale dirt and rubbed this mess with a banana peel. The seats were kept like that for three days. Then we tried to clean each area one by one, following the instructions – and this is what we got.
TO THE CAR WASH OR BY YOURSELF?
If you go to a car wash, be ready that they will return your car with wet seats, not out of spite, but just because the car wash workers have no time to wait for everything to dry. In such cases, if possible, it is better to transfer passengers to other places, and for the driver (if it was his seat) it makes sense to put some mat – at least for a while. We remind you that many modern cars have zippered upholstery, which makes it quickly removable. If you are going to do laundry at home, turn the upholstery inside out – this way there is less chance of getting fresh scuffs.
Our opinion
Trigger packages seem to us more convenient compared to the aerosol ones, because they allow for a rational use of the product, without the fear of flooding half the interior with foam and yourself along with it. Though after treatment with any agent instead of dirty area at first there is big dark spot: only after its drying it will be seen whether the dirt is gone or not.
In terms of units of product, the most expensive was the German drug Liqui Moly (2,21 rubles /ml), and the most accessible – the Russian Kult (0,26 rubles / ml): the difference is almost a order.
Our opinion on each cleaner – in the photo gallery, where they are in alphabetical order. We liked the German Sonax better than others, the trigger packing allows precise dosing of the cleaner, which quickly removed the contamination. Let us also note the American Hi-Gear for its good “dry cleaning” and the domestic Kult for its availability combined with the ease of use and the quality of cleaning.
As usual, we remind you that we are talking about specific samples, so our judgments can not serve as the basis for conclusions about the entire product of the same name in general.
| Approximate price 320 ₽ Volume 650 ml Unit cost 0.49 ₽/ml Temperature range +5˚C – +50˚C Aerosol can with a brush. The formulation provides a foamy effect. The smell is a little pungent. The product does its job well. Recommended. |
| Approximate price 320 ₽ Weight 400 g Specific product unit cost 0.59 ₽/ml Temperature range – Aerosol package, has a brush. Foam is decent. The smell is faint, with a slight fragrance. But the dirt removed not very convincingly: traces remained. Do not recommend it. |
| Spray: I can’t recommend this product if it does not come in contact with traces. Approx. price 155 ₽NGB 400ml Volume: 0.39 ₽/ml Temperature range: +5˚C – +28˚C Spray: lemon scented, not very bubbly, but it removes dirt easily and with no visible signs of efflorescence. Recommended. |
| Approximate price 175 ₽ Volume 335 ml Unit cost 0.52 ₽/ml Temperature range – Aerosol has a slight fragrance. The foam is abundant. Cleans well. Recommended. |
| Approximate price 320 ₽ Volume 650 ml Specific unit cost of product 0.49 ₽/ml Temperature range – Aerosol gives an abundant foam. Odor is faint. Surprised by the mention “store at room temperature”: can’t you take it with you? Only partially penetrates into the dirt. Not recommended. |
| Approximate price 410 ₽ Weight 340 g Unit cost 1.20 ₽/ml Temperature range +10˚C – +30˚C Aerosol has a strong ammonia smell. The foam is abundant. The price is high, but the stain is very decent. Recommended. |
| Approximate price 235 ₽ Weight 442 g Specific product unit cost 0.53 ₽/ml Temperature range – The aerosol can is equipped with a brush that “shreds” the surface to be treated. The foam forms a high “column” over the contamination. We did not see any harm in it. It should be stored at temperatures from 5 to 25˚ C. The stain could not be removed. Not recommended. |
| Approximate price 130 ₽ Volume 500 ml Specific product unit cost 0.26 ₽/ml Temperature range – Trigger packaging of unusual appearance: a mesh is provided in front of the atomizer. There is not much foam and the odor is very faint. Storage is at room temperature. But the preparation coped with contamination easily, and the price is attractive. We recommend it. |
| Approximate price 280 ₽ Volume 310 ml Specific unit cost of product 0.90 ₽/ml Temperature range -30˚C – +30˚C Trigger gives almost no foam. Odor is weak. I was pleasantly surprised by the wide temperature range. Handled the stain easily. Recommended. |
| Approximate price 410 ₽ Weight/volume 286 g/300 ml Specific product unit cost 2.21 ₽/ml Temperature range – The most expensive product in our sample. Aerosol packaging, abundant foam, medium odor. Removed dirt easily. Recommended. |
| Approximate price 485 ₽ Volume 500 ml Specific unit cost of product 0.97 ₽/ml Temperature range Recommended to keep from freezing The trigger with the fixer does not produce any foam at all; the solution is soapy. The smell is weak. As far as cleaning efficiency is concerned it is one of the best. Recommended. |
| Approximate price 310 ₽ Weight/volume 484 g/500 ml Specific product unit cost 0.62 ₽/ml Temperature range – Unpleasant smelling aerosol gives plenty of foam. Did not fully cope with the stain. Not recommended. |
| Approximate price 520 ₽ Volume 400 ml Specific unit cost of product 1.30 ₽/ml Temperature range – This aerosol can, fitted with a brush, is recommended to be stored between 3 and 25˚C. The scent is reminiscent of herringbone type fragrance. The foam is plentiful, but cleans badly. And the price is high. I do not recommend it. |
SEAT AND FENDER – WHAT DO THEY HAVE IN COMMON
Technically – nothing. However, when repairing a damaged part of a fender, a technician will try to paint the whole fender instead of a separate fragment: this way possible nuances and transitions of the paint are less noticeable. Similarly, when cleaning a grease stain on the seat, it makes sense to use the cleaner not only for the stain, but for a larger area, if possible – say, from fringe to fringe. The difference in the appearance of the fabric surface before and after treatment will not be conspicuous.
ChipDetailing. Proper dry cleaning with your own hands. Tips.
Human progress is built on two things: meaningful theory and random experimentation. Understanding what’s going on is a definite plus for getting results, but the ability to get creative on the fly (without understanding) and luck – can be just as good a shot.
Weakness and courage are the unbreakable credo of DesnDetailing. For those who don’t get it, I just hinted above – experiment!
Since the HF theme is on, as promised, I’ll continue. Fewer fails will be if you read my memoirs manuscripts in full. Now I will try to remember EVERYTHING I know on the subject from personal experience to theory in chemistry, I’ll post it here, who is in the subject – will get excited and cry from happiness. Much of what I have written extends in part to the car wash and other pleasures.
Despite my best efforts, this article will probably be supplemented and completed many times.
Why did I start the topic of HC in the first place? I looked on the web on the subject of CC – one rubs the foam, clogging the dirt even deeper, the second – vanish rubs until the holes, the third tornado on the skin beams … well, they turn people’s brains into dust and are not ashamed to put it in the internet. “The best things come to us through pain.” (The Great One. Most likely there’s an underlying theme – you yourself screw up the salon and create a demand for the service “make me now normal” given that your hands are not from a well-known datelyling franchise grows, just read-see in the wrong place.
Many will say, why do you tell me how to do? My dears, once again I explain – my reader is an advanced amateur with straight hands and able to repeat the action point by point. Not a professional child, because there are so few of them in Russia.
Why do I need a vacuum cleaner (PVA)? Yes, of course, cool to have a compressor at 5 bar, tornador, Aerograph, automatic mist blower, Italian tri-turbine vacuum cleaner on 4 wheels, extractor, steam cleaner, brushes for 3k, chemistry from the unicorns … – but most do not, I wrote a tutorial for most with a minimum objective requirement – a detergent, I can paint how to do “into the fire” – but this is a commerce.
What chemistry to use? If you can, take Koch Merz, I believe in him, when I worked in babling we rubbed them all from Japanese decaying to Bentley – and all ok. I’ll tell you why (not advertising): I will tell you why (not for advertising): ● The formula can be diluted from 1 to 10 to 1 to 50 ● You can use it on the entire interior (carpet, leather, plastic, etc.) – it covers everything you see, but you know how to clean it, of course ● Still, this is Koch, and Koch is a safe application for any European car ● A solid brand that I have come to understand (professional and responsible for quality) ● Common ● A reasonable price ● A funny expense
Minuses of Koch Merz: ● makes me cough ● there is an opinion that it contains chlorine, but it is not certain ● a good respirator mask is mandatory when working with a tornado ● a liter is a lot to like, 1 liter = 20 liters of compound (if 1 in 20, cap)
How does the Great One (I) use Merz? He dilutes 1 to 20, for deep soiling 1 to 15. That is usually 15 ml + 300 ml H2O.
Risks with CC: ◎ Do not suck out all the moisture (body rust, mold, etc.) ◎ Do not wash out all the chemical (reaction with the oscillating texture and adhesives in it) ◎ Breathe the fumes of dry cleaning products when applying and when using the car
Note that for the tutorial I didn’t use Koch Merz (I simply don’t have it), but tested Triton and Shine Systems samples. You can always find reviews of the test subjects on my Telegram channel DzenDetailing – search for the application.
Consumption (using Shine Systems 1 to 15 as an example): 60 ml (960 ml) – underfloor carpet 60 ml (960 ml) – mats 40 ml (640 ml) – trunk, sides, backs of rear seats and other carpets
Tips, rules, tips, observations, and secrets of dry-cleaning (HC):
1. Work piece by piece (for example: sprayed the driver’s carpet, waited for a timing, went through a PVS, apply water, went to spray the passenger carpet, while it absorbs – took the water from the driver’s, and so on).
2. Dilute as much chemicals as you need, preferably less. Always. It’s not about economy, it’s about efficiency. Any diluted chemicals do not keep for a long time.
3. Why are we in p.1 vacuuming? In fact, the task is not only to remove sand, but also to lift-straighten the nap so that the chemical (p.2) went deeper and came out more easily.
4. How does the chemo work? The way I see it, the chemistry itself not only contains detergent surfactants, but it essentially “lubricates” the pile (the carpet) so that the PVA can get the fine sand and dust out of its depths more easily. Many already know that the foam is not only better penetrates the dirt itself, but also more effectively spends the composition, in addition lifts the dirt on the surface, which we later demolish with PVA.
5. “But others rub Laurel foam and ok.” Yes, visually it is “ok”, but in fact they rub the dirt from the surface, not take it out, Carl! They don’t take it out! That’s what PVA is for, not a fiber rag. After such a rag-cleaning, getting the dirt out even with a tornado is a problem.
6. Steam generator. Steam is power, I see the future behind it. On the steam in the section CC, I report, if you’ve decided to remove the stain, then consider the main risks: to affect the structure of the temperature, do not remove the moisture PVS and of course do not use with chemicals for CC – because the hot steam will go exactly to your lungs, chemicals may be chlorine – and this beaumee! Use steam on surfaces that do not have chemistry.
7. the extractor. It’s a good gizmo, in essence a wet vac. It gives water and sucks it right away taking away dirt and exhausted-unworked chemistry so you do not breathe these vapors. In my technique, we do the same thing – wash out the chemical with water, so it doesn’t eat what it doesn’t need to eat (the base of the carpet or wire), and you don’t have to breathe it in. Bring me an order!
8. Lining under your knees – it’s called “podzopnik” by the dacha owners. CC is such a thing that you often have to take a knee-jerk and try to enjoy it, so save your joints for a penny. When working low for a long time, I advise to use a skateboard or longboard – cheap and serdito, combine with the “buttock” and get comfort.
9. Timing or how long to hold the chemistry, brother? Brother, from 2 to 5 minutes, the stronger the pollution – the longer, if a clean wash preventive – then enough and a minute, you should not hold longer than it really needs to, the chemistry is such – when it has nothing to eat (no dirt), it can start eating the pile for example, “free radicals” – remember this? So – don’t take any chances. As long as the appendix does not hurt – it is not removed. Going back to timing – read the instructions, otherwise there will be a hole hole.
10. Playing with temperature. As I wrote in the preamble – there is understanding and then there is fantasy, this is where they overlap. Heating water for mixing with CX – we intensify its work (example: hot wax on the sinks, it’s the same wax only with hot water), including if the surface of the carpet is hot. By increasing the temperature, we are NOTHING to speed up the reaction – experiment with this, but be careful.
11. the purity of the water – greatly affects the result. In short, in untreated water (hard water) float impurities that are instantly grabbed by GC, which reduces its purifying ability already at the start. What to do? We either buy distillate or purify water with Aquaphor, boil it, pour it into a clean bottle and store it. The same water should be poured into a steam cleaner, by the way. Ideally mix everything with this water.
12. Vinet. A forbidden word on my Blog here. Cannot be used! Cleans but destroys the hell out of everything.
13. Zen dry cleaning techniques – can be used in the home.
14. “I want to do a similar methodology…” No problem, do it your way, the main thing was to explain the system: remove sand, lift nap, moisturize, remove trim, remove local pollution with a brush with trim, remove trim foam, apply water, remove water and trim trim residue, dry. Get the point? Preparation of surface, work with chemistry, burn out chemistry.
15. You want results – work within the system. That is, do not do everything through one place.
16. Games with concentration. Choose the middle of the recommended, look at the work of the squad, if it suits you, try to decrease the concentration, if not – increase it.
17. Start from the top, because everything goes down. If globally, from the ceiling, if we’re talking about the floor, from the pedals.
18. Cleaning the ceiling. Extremely delicate place, consider separately, but here’s a teaser: maximum is steam, fiber, SH, no PVS.
19. If unsure of GC – try it on an inconspicuous area of the subject, wait until it dries completely after cleaning. Some shelf CX leave stains, including on plastic.
20. Foam. You can use a foamer to create foam, it increases efficiency and saves the compound. You can buy bubble wrap foamers in women’s cosmetics stores. I personally use the foam on stains, it does not make sense to pour it just like that, imho.
21. Clean containers. Before work, all triggers should be clean, without any residues of other compositions (maximum drop of water), also after work, brushes, brushes, bottles, triggers are washed. Who knows what you will pour in there tomorrow and what the result will be.
22. Trigger. Need a chemical-resistant Trigger – look for the domestic Rosinka (~ 40 rubles).
23. Pump sprayer. Take any, they all die the same way die, imho (better immediately in the kit with a spare rubber).
24. Applying CX directly on the brush – you save the compound. But I personally do not do so, not boyarsky it … In fact, you need a few sticks – the brush is not so absorbent, imho.
25. Plastic and seats. If you can remove the plastic or the seats, you can do it for better cleaning. Under the seats I found coins, flash drives, French fries, bottles, peeled banana, women’s hairpins, bank cards, keys and suspicious stains…
26. PVA hose. I advise to clamp it between your legs so that you don’t hit the car and the sills with it.
27. Remember, from my observations, a lot depends not only on the SC, but more on the hands and understanding of “how it works”.
28. Wires (exposed contacts) should be insulated, cap.
29. The new trend is an adhesive sturdy film on the floor (e.g. for winter), the carpeting will stay clean.
30. Thin PVA nozzle can be ground “on the side”, it is more convenient to work than 90 degrees to the plane.
31. Air. If you have a compressor, use air in hard-to-reach places, but keep in mind that dust and sand will fly in all directions. So it is better to do this at the beginning of the cleaning.
32. I’m a customer. If you are a client of the honing, you can ask what will work (tornador), is there an extractor (preferably), will the plastic be removed (and not torn off), and at the reception pay attention to the smell in the car and the cleanliness of the hidden cavities. And also look at the owner’s car – you will quickly understand if this is a scam business or a hobby turned into a business.
33. 33. Water repelling preservatives. I do not recommend using. As you know from my blog – nanoparticles freely pass into the pores of a person (Wikipedia), besides breathing this too probably should not. And a little logic include: if the droplet is not absorbed into the carpet, it will be absorbed somewhere else, where it will be more difficult to remove, or again evaporate into your lungs.
34. Do not dilute formulas by eye. Use a measuring tape. I advise to take a measuring jug for the liquid, for the right hand, with clear frequent marks, clearly cylindrical, not expanding, with a long and sharp spout. It is better to have two: 1 and 0.5 liters.
35. Any compound must be shaken before diluting and applying.
36. Drying. Do not allow un-watered CX to dry.
37. Always read the instructions and recommendations for application of the CX. 38.
38. Home Mat. Sometimes the composition remains, so think in advance what home mat to clean the residue.
39. When dry-cleaning, at the same time pay attention to the sand under the rubber bands of door sills, as well as the space under the trunk luggage rack.
40. Collect the PVA foam before it settles.
41. 41. Do not wax the outside of the car with bleach.
42. Conditioner. At BC it is worth checking the heater drain holes for cleanliness, as well as some time after BC I advise marking the cabin air filter.
43. CP with hosewash. All the same. The solution is made from shavings of chemical soap diluted with water, the product is clean, we work without a respirator, but will have to work with a brush. Realistically. Ecological. Labor-intensive. Odor as a minus.
44. Why a brush? Brush is too light, rag and fiber – will only hammer the dirt deeper.
45. What kind of brush? A brush similar to a leather brush would be fine.
46. If you don’t have PVA. Try to: A) look for it among your friends B) rent it out C) negotiate at a car wash
If you get 100 likes, you’ll get a post about leather and alka, with a competent video from the best LeTech masters.
