Adjusting the brightness of the cabin lighting

Revamping the dimmer regulator of cabin lighting

21 September 2011 | Author: Nick | Viewings: 43843 |

If you decide to remake the original interior lighting with regular bulbs on the LED, then you will definitely need this update regulator dimmer salon lights.

Why do I need it?

Stories of our readers

“Fucking pelvis. “

Hello, my name is Michael, now tell the story of how I managed to exchange a twelve-car for a camry 2010. It all started with the fact that I became wildly annoyed with breakdowns duvenka, like nothing serious is not broken, but the little things, man, so much that really began to piss me off. That’s when the idea arose that it was time to change the car for a foreign car. The choice fell on the Toyota Camry of the 10s.

Yes, I was mentally ready, but financially I could not pull it off. I must say right away that I am against loans and taking a car, especially not a new one, on credit is unreasonable. My monthly salary is 24k, thus it is unreal to me to collect 600-700k. I started to search for different ways to earn money online. I tried different kinds of tricks: sports betting, network marketing and even casino Vulcan, where I lost about 10 thousand dollars (because the only direction where I could earn money was currency trading, it was called Forex). But when I started to get into details, I understood that it was too difficult for me. I kept digging and came across binary options. The idea was the same as in Forex, but it was much easier to understand. I started reading forums and studying traders’ strategies. I tried it on a demo account, then I opened a real account. To be honest, I managed to start earning not right away, while I understood all the mechanics of options, I poured out about 3,000 rubles, but as it turned out, it was a valuable experience. Now I earn 5-7 thousand rubles per day. I managed to buy a car in half a year but I think it was a good result and it was not the car. My life has changed, of course I quit my job and I have more free time for myself and my family. You will laugh, but I work directly on the phone)) If you want to change your life as I did, here is what I advise you to do right now: 1. register on the site 2. train on a demo account (it’s free). 3. As soon as you get something on the demo account, fund a real account, and go, to the REAL MONEY! I also advise you to download the application on your phone, from your phone is much more convenient to work. Download here.

This improvement of OEM dimmer is designed for those who changed all the interior lighting of VAZ 2110 for LED (we are talking about the dashboard lighting, air duct lighting, installed speaker lighting, etc.) OEM dimmer is designed to regulate the lighting of regular bulbs and LEDs will not have any effect. Changing the regulator following the example of this article, you will make it possible to regulate the LED backlight, but you will not be able to regulate the backlight of the bulbs.

You can modify your dimmer in one of two ways.

Option 1: Adjusting the LED interior lighting VAZ 2110

You can see the dimensions of the standard and the new one. In the middle is such a mechanism. Choose a drill on the diameter of the knob of the new resistor (in this case 5,5 mm) In the native handle increase the drill hole and insert the new resistor.

I fixed the new resistor this way. Assemble in the reverse order. Solder wiring and put it in the car.

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Option 2: Adjusting the diode interior lighting VAZ 2110

Will adjust by means of Shim. Already tried the scheme and design of the add-on to the regular regulator.

In this video you can see how the unit assembled according to this scheme regulates the brightness of the backlight.

Adjusting the brightness of the LED dashboard backlight

Power for the board takes the power from the OEM backlight, ie from the 4th contact of the red strip – soldering a wire directly to the solder pin from the inside of the board. Another thing done is to turn on the backlight when you turn the ignition key. To do this through the diode drags wire from the 2nd contact of the red strip to the 4th contact (white) in the car, after the strip, also hang a diode, so when you turn on the ignition we do not use the whole circuit lights. Why exactly behind the block – so that the ignition would light up the LCD screens of the instrument panel. By the way under these I put a white LED and left the blue light filter

Adjusting the brightness of the LEDs in the car

Brightness adjustment of light sources is used to create a comfortable lighting of the room or place of work. Brightness adjustment is possible device several circuits, which include separate switches. In this case, you get a step change in lighting, as well as separate lights and lights off, which can cause inconvenience.

Stylish and up-to-date designs include smoothly adjusting the overall light intensity as long as all the lamps glow. This allows you to create both an intimate setting for lounging and a bright one for celebrations or working with small details.

Previously, when the main light sources were incandescent bulbs and spotlights with halogen lamps, there were no problems with adjustment. We used a regular 220V dimmer with a triac (or thyristors). This was usually in the form of a switch, with a rotary knob instead of keys.

With the advent of energy-saving (compact fluorescent bulbs) and then LEDs, this approach became impossible. Recently, however, the vast majority of light sources are LED lights and bulbs, and incandescent bulbs are banned for lighting purposes in many countries.

Interestingly enough, the packaging from domestic incandescent bulbs now indicate something like: “Electric heat emitter”.

In this article, you will learn about the principle of dimming LEDs, as well as what it looks like in practice.

Theory

Any semiconductor diode is an electronic device that carries current in one direction. The current flow is not linearly related to the applied voltage, rather it resembles a branch of a parabola. This means that when you apply low voltage to the LED – the current will not flow.

It will only flow when the voltage across the diode exceeds the threshold value. For ordinary rectifier diodes, this is between 0.3V and 0.8V depending on the material of which the diode is made. Silicon diodes take about 0.7V, germanium diodes about 0.3V. Schottky diodes are about 0.3V.

The LED is no exception. The threshold voltage of a white LED is about 3V, in general it depends on the semiconductor it is made of and the color of the LED. The red LED has a voltage of about 1.7V. When this voltage is reached, current will flow and the LED will start to glow. Below you see the volt-ampere characteristic of the LED.

The brightness of the LED depends on the current through it. This is shown in the graph below.

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The brightness of an ideal theoretical LED is linearly dependent on current, but in reality things are a bit different. This is due to the differential resistance of the diode and its thermal losses.

An LED is a device that is powered by current, not voltage. Accordingly, to adjust its brightness, you need to change the current strength.

Of course, the current intensity depends on the applied voltage, but as you can judge from the first graph, even a slight change in voltage entails an incommensurable increase in current.

Therefore, dimming with a simple rheostat is a useless task. In such a circuit, if the rheostat resistance decreases, the LED will suddenly light up, and then its brightness will increase slightly, then, with an excessive applied voltage, it will start to warm up a lot and will fail.

Hence the task comes out: Regulate the current at a certain voltage value with a slight change in voltage.

Ways to control the brightness of LEDs: Linear “analog” regulators

The first thing that comes to mind is to use a bipolar transistor because its output current (collector) depends on the input current (base) included in a common collector circuit. We already covered their operation in a great article on bipolar transistors.

You change the base current by changing the voltage drop across the emitter-base junction with potentiometer R2, resistors R1 and R3 are needed to limit the current at maximum open transistor are calculated from the formula:

R=(U-supply-fall on LEDs-fall on transistor)/Ilight.nom.

This circuit I tested, it regulates pretty well current through the LEDs and the brightness of the glow, but noticeable some stepping at certain positions of the potentiometer, possibly due to the fact that the potentiometer was logarithmic, and perhaps because any pn junction of the transistor is the same diode with the same SAC.

A better choice for this task is a current regulated LM317 current regulator circuit, although it is more commonly used as a voltage regulator.

It can also be used to produce a fixed current at a constant voltage. This is especially useful when connecting LEDs to the car’s onboard power system where the voltage is about 11.7V-12V when the engine is idle and reaches 14.7V when the engine is running, a difference of more than 10%. It also works fine when powered from the power supply.

Calculation of output current is simple enough:

It is quite a compact solution:

This method is not very efficient, it depends on the voltage difference between the input of the stabilizer and its output. All voltage is “burned out” on the LM-circuit. The power loss here is determined by the formula:

To improve the efficiency of the regulator, you need a radically different approach – a pulse regulator or PWM regulator.

Ways to control brightness: PWM control

PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation. It is based on turning the load power on and off at high speed. In this way, we get a change in current through the LED as the full voltage required to open it is applied to it each time. It quickly turns on and off at full brightness, but because of the inertia of vision we don’t notice this and it looks like a decrease in brightness.

With this approach, the light source can give pulsations, it is not recommended to use light sources with pulsations greater than 10%. Detailed values for each type of room are described in SNIP-23-05-95 (or 2010).

Working under pulsating light causes increased fatigue, headaches, and can also cause a stroboscopic effect where rotating parts appear to be stationary. This is unacceptable when working on lathes, drills, etc.

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There are a lot of schemes and versions of PWM controllers, so it makes no sense to list them all. The simplest option is to build a PWM controller based on the NE555 timer chip. This is a popular chip. Below you can see a schematic of such a LED dimmer:

But this is actually the same circuit, the difference is that here the power transistor is excluded and it is suitable for regulating 1-2 low-power LEDs with a current of a couple of tens of milliamps. It also does not have a voltage regulator for the 555 chip.

How to adjust the brightness of LED lamps on 220V

The answer is simple: conventional LED lamps are virtually unregulated – that is, not at all. To do this, special dimmable LED lamps are sold, it is written on the packaging or drawn with a dimmer icon.

Perhaps the widest range of dimming LED lamps is represented by GAUSS – different shapes, designs and sockets.

Why can not be dimmed LED lamps 220V

The fact that the power supply circuit of conventional LED lamps is based either on the ballast (capacitor) power supply. Or at the circuit of the simplest pulse step-down converter of the first kind. 220V dimmers, in turn, simply regulate the effective voltage value.

Distinguish such dimmers by the front of operation:

1. Dimmers that cut the leading edge of the half-wave (leading edge). These are the circuits most often found in household regulators. Here is a graph of their output voltage:

2. Falling Edge Dimmers. Various sources claim that these regulators work better with both conventional and dimmable LED lamps. But they are much less common.

Conventional LED bulbs will barely change brightness with such a dimmer, plus it can hasten their failure. The effect is the same as in the rheostat circuit given in the previous section of the article.

It is worth noting that most of the cheap adjustable LED lights behave exactly the same as the regular ones, but cost more.

Adjusting the brightness of LED lamps – a rational solution

12V LED bulbs are common in sockets for spotlights, such as G4, GX57, G5.3 and others. The point is that often these lamps do not have a power circuit as such. Although some have a diode bridge and a filter capacitor at the input, but this does not affect the ability to regulate.

This means that you can regulate such bulbs with a PWM regulator.

In the same way as you adjust the brightness of the LED ribbon. The simplest version of the regulator, this one here on the wires, in stores they are usually called as: “12-24V dimmer for LED strip”.

They hold, depending on the model, about 10 amps. If you need to use in a nice shape, i.e., build in instead of a regular switch, you can find such touch-sensitive 12V dimmers on sale, or variants with a rotary knob.

Here’s an example of using such a solution:

Previously, 12-volt halogen lamps were used and powered by electronic transformers, and this was a great solution. 12 volts is a safe voltage. To power these lamps at 12 volts electronic transformer will not work, you need a power supply for LED strips. Basically, converting lighting from halogen to LED lights is all about that.

Conclusion

The most reasonable solution to control the brightness of LED lighting is to use 12V lamps or LED strips. When reducing the brightness may flicker light, for this you can try to use a different driver, and if you make a shim controller with your own hands – to increase the frequency of PWM.

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Changing the brightness of the LEDs or the controller with their own hands

Today we will try to make a controller that will regulate the brightness of the LED. The materials for this test were taken from the website led22.ru from the article “LEDs for cars with our own hands”. The 2 main parts used in this experiment are the LM317 current regulator and the variable resistor. You can see them in the picture below. The difference of our experiment from the original article is that we left the variable resistor to regulate the light of the LED. In a radio parts store (not the cheapest but well known) we bought these parts for 120 rubles (stabilizer – 30r, resistor – 90r). Here we want to note that the resistor is Russian-made “timbre”, which has a maximum resistance of 1 kOhm.

Wiring diagram: the right leg of the LM317 current regulator is connected to the “plus” from the 12V power supply. An AC resistor is connected to the left and middle legs. Also the plus side of the LED is connected to the left leg. The minus wire from the power supply is connected to the minus leg of the LED.

It turns out that the current, passing through Lm317, is reduced to the value given by the resistance of the variable resistor.

In practice it was decided to solder the stabilizer directly to the resistor. This was done first of all to dissipate the heat from the regulator. It will now heat up along with the resistor. We have 3 pins on the resistor. We use the center one and the outermost one. Which one to use is not important for us. Depending on the choice, in one case turning the knob clockwise will increase the brightness and in the opposite case it will decrease. If you connect the outermost pins, the resistance will be constant 1 kOhm.

Let’s solder the wires as in the diagram. The brown wire will be the “plus” from the power supply, the blue wire will be the “plus” to the LED. When soldering we leave a lot of tin for better heat transfer.

And finally we put on a heat shrink to avoid any possibility of a short circuit. Now we can test it.

For the first test we use LEDs:

1) Epistar 1W, operating voltage is 4V (at the bottom of the next picture).

2) A flat diode with three chips, working voltage is 9V (at the top of the next picture).

The results (can be seen in the following video) can not but please: not a single diode burned out, the brightness is regulated smoothly from minimum to maximum. To power a semiconductor the main value is the supply current, not the voltage (the current grows exponentially with respect to the voltage, when the voltage rises the probability of “burning” the LED increases sharply.

After that the test is performed with LED modules on 12V. And on them our controller works without any problems. This is exactly what we wanted.

Why do we need it at all?

Stories of our readers

“Fucking pelvis. “

Hello, my name is Michael, now tell the story of how I managed to exchange a twelve-car for a camry 2010. It all started with the fact that I became wildly annoyed with breakdowns duvenka, like nothing serious is not broken, but the little things, man, so much that really began to piss me off. That’s when the idea arose that it was time to change the car for a foreign car. The choice fell on the Toyota Camry of the 10s.

Yes, I was ready mentally, but financially I could not pull it off. I must say right away that I am against loans and taking a car, especially not a new one, on credit is unreasonable. My monthly salary is 24k, thus it is unreal to me to collect 600-700k. I started to search for different ways to earn money online. I tried different kinds of tricks: sports betting, network marketing and even casino Vulcan, where I lost about 10 thousand dollars (because the only direction where I could earn money was currency trading, it was called Forex). But when I started to get into details, I understood that it was too difficult for me. I kept digging and came across binary options. The idea was the same as in Forex, but it was much easier to understand. I started reading forums and studying traders’ strategies. I tried it on a demo account, then I opened a real account. To be honest, I managed to start earning not right away, while I understood all the mechanics of options, I poured out about 3,000 rubles, but as it turned out, it was a valuable experience. Now I earn 5-7 thousand rubles per day. I managed to buy a car in half a year but I think it was a good result and it was not the car. My life has changed, of course I quit my job and I have more free time for myself and my family. You will laugh, but I work directly on the phone)) If you want to change your life as I did, here is what I advise you to do right now: 1. register on the site 2. train on a demo account (it’s free). 3. As soon as you get something on the demo account, fund a real account, and go, to the REAL MONEY! I also advise you to download the application on your phone, from your phone is much more convenient to work. Download here.

This improvement of OEM dimmer is designed for those who changed all the interior lighting of VAZ 2110 for LED (we are talking about the dashboard lighting, air duct lighting, installed speaker lighting, etc.) OEM dimmer is designed to regulate the lighting of regular bulbs and LEDs will not have any effect. Changing the regulator following the example of this article, you will make it possible to regulate the LED backlight, but you will not be able to regulate the backlight of the bulbs.

You can modify your dimmer in one of two ways.

Option 1: Adjusting the LED interior lighting VAZ 2110

  1. Imported 2Kohm variable resistor
  2. soldering iron.
  3. Drill or screwdriver with 5.5mm drill bit

We have such a thing with a rating of 5.5 ohms. and a variable resistor with a rating of 2KOm

You can see the dimensions of the standard one and the new one. In the middle is such a mechanism. We are going to choose a drill with the diameter of the knob of the new resistor (in this case 5,5mm). We are going to put the new resistor into the knob and drill a bigger hole.

I fixed the new resistor this way. Assemble in the reverse order. Solder wiring and put it in the car.

Option 2: Adjusting the diode interior lighting VAZ 2110

Will adjust by means of Shim. Already tried the scheme and design of the add-on to the regular regulator.

In this video you can see how the unit assembled according to this scheme regulates the brightness of the backlight.

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