Independent installation of car alarms, Car alarm connection points
There is no standard scheme by which you can connect a car security system. This can be understood by analyzing the wiring diagrams of signaling systems from different manufacturers of systems. The color of electrical circuits in systems from different brands can be designed for different tasks. Almost every manufacturer has a certain way of mounting and connecting the devices.
In terms of cable coloring, each wiring diagram may differ depending on the standards adopted in a particular country. To correctly connect the elements of the alarm system should focus on the electronic measuring equipment for probing. When installing the alarm system on the car, it is not recommended to use ordinary lamps for the dialler. Given the location of the main blocks the user may need to purchase additional electrical circuits. When installing it is necessary to consider that the cross section of the additional and standard wires of the alarm system should be identical.
Location map of the alarm system components
Windshield closer. Installation basics
The windshield closer is needed to close the windows when a closing signal is received, for instance, from the car alarm system or regular central locking system.
The windows are usually closed in sequence when the windshield closer is activated. The closer has to know that the window is closed (for example, it analyzes the noise or the current flowing through the electric motor) and should realize the absence of load and work time limitation (the so called cable breakage mode).
There are door closers capable of opening windows and detecting obstacles (like native Camry), there are door closers with memory, etc., here it all depends on the algorithm invested in the brain door closer. Closer units are available to control two or four windows.
To be able to install itself closer needed hands that know how to hold a soldering iron, you need to know how to use the tester or (and) that the numbers on the screen, what the “plus” and “mass” accuracy well as the desire and time.
Consider the usual door closer that can only raise the glass (two or four – does not matter). That is you gave a signal for closing – first window was raised, then the second, then the third and so on.
To begin with you need to understand the principle of window opening-closing control from the regular control buttons:
Raising and lowering of the window is controlled by a DC motor, the rotation of which depends on the polarity of the voltage. In normal position, when the buttons are not pressed, the motor is connected to the common ground with both ends, so it is immovable.
If you press the “Close” button, the plus will get on one contact of the motor (on the second contact of the motor is the mass), respectively, the motor starts to rotate (say, in a clockwise direction).
If you press the “Close” button, the plus will get to the other contact of the motor, the rotation will be in the other direction, respectively, the window will start to move down. Well, if you press both buttons simultaneously, then both contacts of the motor will have +12 volts, there will be no voltage difference and the motor will remain immovable.
All other windows are controlled in the same way. The circuit is powered by fuse, through contact IG2 of ignition switch (second position of key in the lock).
Now let us have a look at the door closer and how it is mounted and how it is built into the circuit. There are a lot of schemes and versions on the market, but they all work on the same principle – duplicating the regular button “Close” with its own relay, which is switched on and off by the door closer’s brains.
Closers are made universal, to control the “mass” or “plus. In Toyotas, the windows are controlled by the plus.
Accordingly, according to the variant needed in the scheme of door closer to connect the power wires or switch the jumper in the closer, the installation instructions on this point is described in detail.
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Now about the assembly and installation.
You need to determine the place to install the door closer. As a rule the door closer is installed in the driver’s door directly under the standard control unit of the sectionalizers.
To determine the place you need to remove the button block and look inside, determining the free space inside.
You need to identify and call (if you do not have a diagram at hand) the correct connection points in the wires connected to the button block. Details:
You need to identify the test wires where the plus appears during the upward movement of the glass. These wires are large cross-section, they need to cut and solder wires according to the diagram attached door closer. (twist at all unrecommended, because the currents there are very large).
If there are four glasses in the car, you should cut four wires and solder from the door closer eight wires.
You need to find the wire power door closer. Since the door closer should work in the absence of the key in the ignition, you need to find a thick plus wire, which has a plus of 12 volts in the absence of the key in the ignition.
There is a central locking control in the button block, where this plus wire should fit. If it is not there, you need to look at it on the door locking-opening actuator terminals.
It is necessary to determine how the auto-closer is controlled. For example, if there is a car alarm, it has an additional output channel, which shows a signal when arming.
That is, put on the alarm – the windows are closed. Baffle here – you need to pull a separate wire from the alarm in the door through the corrugation in the door to the door closer unit. There is also a way to connect to the central locking system.
To do this you need to identify the wire in the connector block of buttons, which connects to the mass, if you press the door-lock button. This is where you need to connect the control wire. With this scheme the windows will be closed even from the regular alarm.
Now about the control wires of window closer There are usually two inputs for window closing control.
The first one works if you connect it to ground and the second one if you connect it to plus. In most cases, the first option is used.
Also, the door closer can have additional wires to prohibit the operation of auto-closer or, for example, signal output, which appears on the alarm when the auto-closer works.
If the regular driver’s window closer is installed, installation and mounting of the closer is a bit complicated by installing a bypass unit (or rather control) of the regular closer. It sounds loud, but it is realized by one small relay.
How to connect the windshield closer to the alarm?
Installation and connection of door closers:
- Installation of devices is made in the doors of the car, for this purpose, their upholstery is dismantled. Door closers are powered from the onboard network of the car, it is necessary to bring the positive contact and the mass to the device. It is important that the electrical circuit with which the door closer is connected is active when the ignition is off.
- Use a tester to determine the electrical circuits intended to supply voltage from the control buttons to the electric motors of the window closer.
- In accordance with the wiring diagram of the door closers, cut the cables from the control unit to the electrical supply circuit. Outlets in the device are used to connect to the doors, they have different colors. The cable, which goes from the control button to the electric motor, is cut in to the ends of the electric circuit. The contacts of the unit are connected to the electrical circuit.
- The cables must be properly selected when connecting them and there are two of them going from the control buttons to the electric motor. When the voltage is applied, one of the electric lines lifts the glass and the other one lowers it. If mistakes are made in wiring, then the activation of protection mode will be accompanied by an automatic opening of the window.
- Then a cable is connected to the door closer, designed to transmit a signal from the control unit. You need such a signal, which comes to the block for a second when the protection mode is activated. Depending on the type of device and system, the minus or plus contacts can be used for this. Immediately before connection, you will need to know exactly what signal the alarm control unit sends.
- When the wires are connected, a diagnostic of the devices operation is performed. Provided everything is working correctly, the consumer isolates all tapping electrical circuits and masks them. The procedure for connecting the door closer to four doors is performed in a similar way, only in the regular electrical network will need to make more taps.
They say you get used to a good thing. I was no exception. Accustomed to the previous Corolla to closer windows, was surprised at the fact that more recently it would seem only the driver’s window has mode Auto. Disassembled the door, it was found that the driver’s door is quite a complicated controller, and the other three doors are the usual electric motors are controlled “by force” from the driver’s button block.
The second difference from the Corolla 12 body is that the driver’s controller does not want to raise the window when the ignition is off and most importantly, that the information about the ignition is on it learns via the Lin-bus from the body-ecu. Accordingly, to make the driver’s window elevator controller raises the window when the system is armed.
Declared by Pandora function “Comfort” also did not work, so I had to take a more radical way and remove the controller to cut in a direct control of the electric motor. The controller is made in one case with the ESP motor, remove it all from the door.
The door with the hinges removed
On the table unscrew the 4 bolts of the controller cover and carefully remove it from the housing.
Controller view from below
Controller as seen from above
Next, you need to unsolder the power relay that prevents us from getting to the tracks.
After soldering off, a very responsible part starts, everything you do is your own responsibility, because you might damage the board and you will have to find a new controller! You have to carefully cut two tracks in the places marked with red lines, and after that make one good, thick jumper in the place marked with the blue line. The cuts should be wide, so that there is no short circuit between them!
You have to solder good wires to the resulting two separate tracks. I used pieces of a Toyota engine harness. Next, put the relay back in place and solder its legs well.
The relay is in place
To get the wires out of the controller case we carefully drill two holes like on the picture:
The holes for the wires
Insert the board in its place in the housing and fix the wires with hot melt glue. Also fill in the lead out wires with glue to seal them tightly.
The leads are also covered with hot melt glue.
Install the window lifter in its place and make sure that the glass is adjusted. I will explain why below. At the end, driver’s hinges are ready for external control, and the controller doesn’t know that we can open the window without knowing it.
We used Sheriff PWM-104 ready-made controller to control all the windows:
The control wire was routed in the OEM door harness, which I pulled out of the cabin:
In one of the connectors, I inserted a standard Toyota pin in the free slot, so that there was no twisting between the door and the cabin. In the cabin mating connector also inserted the “papa” and connected to the comfort channel of the alarm system.
A few words about the need to adjust the glass after installation. I did not pay much attention to it when assembling and as a result after a few opening-closing, the glass skewed at the top by about 2 mm, the eye is not noticeable, but: the regular controller began to skew the glass and it started triggering pinch protection. Externally, it looks like this: when you press the Auto Up button the glass goes up, rests against the frame and immediately comes down to the middle. As a result, to close the window is a problem. Came to the garage took the trim off the door and aligned all the guides and the glass itself. After that, everything was back to normal.
Automatic window lift when the car is armed (door closer Pandora DWM-210)
After installing car alarm appeared desire to install door closer, which could automatically close the open windows when the car is armed. On the Internet came across information about the control unit for Windows Pandora DWM-210, the description is just what you need. On Avito found an ad for sale Pandora DWM-210, contacted the seller, ordered a week later, after payment, received the mail. This module can also be purchased at AvtoGSM.ru
Features of this module: – automatic closing of windows when the car is armed – remembering the position of windows when the car is armed and their automatic opening in the same position when disarmed, if the parking lot has lasted no more than 20 minutes – in the deactivated state the module has no effect on the regular circuit windows; – control the movement of windows from the car interior with short presses of buttons (system “one touch”); – Quick stop the driving a car with the windows in one touch mode.
Of all the features I was most interested in the automatic closing of windows when arming and closing / opening the passenger window in one touch, as Auto mode in the case of the driver’s window.
At first I tried to figure out how to connect the module, which wires would have to cut, I also had to work with a tester to find the right wires. In general, the study spent a lot of time. To connect the following diagrams:
– Red wire (1), (11) connected to the plus wire, Black (7) connected to the car body (on the stock bolt right under the steering column) – Gray (3) was not used – Pink (4) was not used – Gray / Red (5) was not used – White / Red (9) connected to the green wire from the alarm (close coupler) – White (2) connected to the blue wire from the alarm (open CP)
Having removed a block with wires from the control panel of window operation buttons, found necessary for me wires: a window elevator of the passenger door: – Black and pink (9) – to lift a window – Red (18) – to lower a window The window elevator of the driver’s door: – Black/yellow (1) – to lift a window – Blue/white (10) – to lower a window
I cut the above wires in half and got 4 ends. These four ends of the wire connected scotch tape to the wires from the module Pandora DWM-210.
Passenger Door Windows: – Hooked up the Yellow/Red (16) to the Pink/Black wire from the button – Hooked up the Green/Red (15) to the Pink/Black wire from the motor – Hooked up the Yellow (20) to the Red wire from the button – Hooked up the Green (10)
Power window of the driver’s door: – By the end of the cable Black / Yellow, which is from the button, connected Orange / Red (14) – By the end of the cable Black / Yellow, which is from the engine, connected Blue / Red (13) – By the end of the cable Blue / White, which is from the button, connected Orange (19) – By the end of the cable Blue / White, which is from the engine, connected Blue (18) It seems right, but I advise you to check it, if you connect a similar module.