An extra fan! Is there a sense? VAZ-2107, VAZ 2104 and all models from VAZ-2101

Built in fans from the heat in the classics

Unread post linkor ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:18:35

Fedor Classicist with experience Messages: 446 Registered: Fri Jul 23, 2010 1:12:00 Car model: VAZ-21053 1999. Engine type: Carburetor Location: Moscow region Thanks (a): 13 times Thanked: 5 times

Re: additional ventilator! Is there a sense.

Unread message Fedor ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:36:10

Randall Moderator Posts: 12418 Registered: Fri Sep 11, 2009 11:38:34 Car Model: 2011 Ford Fusion, 1596 cc, 16V, manual transmission-5. Type of engine: Injector Location: Donetsk. Peredovaya. Thanked (a): 366 times Thanked: 900 times Contact info:

Re: additional ventilator! Is there a sense.

Unread message Randall ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:55:19

alex4922 , I wouldn’t. Reasons enough: 1. When the fan is not running, its blades will restrict the passage of air through the radiator cells (you will get the “winter cardboard” effect). Bottom line – you will boil much more often and turn on this cooler all the time. 2. Quite reasonable statement:

The same advantages are very doubtful. And what’s so hot that the radiator is boiling often? You should at least fill out a profile, it is not even clear where it is. Z.U. And maybe it is time to clean the radiator?

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Re: additional ventilator! Is there a sense.

Unread post Susanin ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:04:23

linkor Father of the Russian Classics Message: 1689 Registered: Sun Sep 26, 2010 12:54:20 Car model: Mazda 6 Location: Orenburg region. Thanked (a): 21 times Thanked: 77 times Contact info:

Re: additional ventilator! Is there a sense.

Unread message linkor ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:05:49 pm

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread message Randall ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:17:56

Right. If only the fan is on, that’s ABSOLUTELY NORMAL operating mode. Don’t let it get in the way! But if it starts boiling, you are looking for problems. But it makes no sense to build a carlsons in front of it.

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Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

To prevent the engine from overheating in traffic jams or when driving at low speed in the woods, it is best to put blades with a higher number. The cooling efficiency is proportional to the number of blades. You can take a ready-made impeller from a Niva or a ten. In addition, it is worth looking at how clogged the engine compartment is. They often install such mud and dust protectors of an engine, that they break air circulation in engine compartment for good.

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Stalkerun Classic Pro Guru Message: 1320 Registered: Tue Dec 01, 2009 18:45:38 Car model: Chevrolet Lanos 1.5L 2008 SX Location: Serpukhov Thanked (a): 6 times Thanked: 29 times Contact info:

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Alex4922 wrote: Hi all! Last year was a very hot summer, all was bad for people and cars. Here I want to submit an idea to your court of additional cooling. Last summer it was a little too hot for my little seven, especially in traffic, now and then the radiator cooling fan worked! What if you put the same blower in front of the radiator, (of course it blows on the radiator and not out of it) and turn it on autonomously by yourself, well, if you get stuck in a traffic jam, turn on the additional cooling. Regular ventilator will be left untouched. Place for dop.ventilator like there is. Do you think it’s worth the hassle.

You could just put a fan from a ten instead of the original one, it is quieter and has 10 blades instead of our 4.

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Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread post Zhigul ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:58:16

Stalkerun What’s the point? The efficiency of the fan does not depend on the number of blades.

alex4922 I would advise you to put either a double fan from niva, or (for summer) change the electric impeller to a mechanical one. (will get a whistle, such a turbine effect)

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

[quote=”Zhigul”] Stalkerun And the point? The efficiency of the fan does not depend on the number of blades. quote] It depends on the number of blades the amount of air supplied – i.e. the fan capacity, at the same speed. And this is important and practically tested.

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Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread post olezhek ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 11:55:59

April 12, space day theme Extra fan! Does it make sense.

IMHO it makes no sense.

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Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread message Buyny ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:27:44

That’s what it’s designed for! It would be silly if it didn’t engage. Furthermore, it is twin on Nivas only because the car is designed for driving, including in rugged terrain, where one vent may not bring the engine to normal thermal mode. But in a city/traffic jams it (the second one) is not needed for nothing as one also completely fulfills its function with undamaged (not clogged) cooling system. So this is my simple truth.

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Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread post Stalkerun ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:34:25

Zhigul wrote: Stalkerun What’s the point? The efficiency of the fan does not depend on the number of blades.

alex4922 I would advise you to put either a double fan from niva, or (for summer) change the electric impeller to a mechanical one. (will get a whistle, such a turbine effect)

well, at least a friend on the Shahe he began to work for less time, and in any case, it is quieter works. and you are afraid of overheating, will have to warm himself from the heater more

Kniz Driver Messages: 54 Registered: Sat Jun 13, 2009 19:42:11 Car model: Vaz 21053 1998. Carburetor OZON, HBO, BSZ Location: Moscow Thanked (a): 2 times Contact info:

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread message Kniz ” Tue Apr 12, 2011 20:18:53

I put myself The reason for this was to install the grille with fog lights, this cooling area from the oncoming air has decreased dramatically. In traffic jams, really helps a lot. But, with the classic grille and serviceable cooling system, I think the thing is not very necessary.

alex4922 Motorist Posts: 25 Registered: Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:07:04 Car model: Classic Thanks (a): 2 times

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread message alex4922 ” Wed Apr 13, 2011 3:57:12

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Re: additional ventilator! Is there a sense.

Randall wrote: alex4922 , I would not. There are enough reasons: 1. When the fan is not working, its blades will restrict the passage of air through the radiator cells (you will get a “winter cardboard” effect). Bottom line – you will boil much more often and turn on this cooler all the time. 2. Quite reasonable statement:

What about the double from niva? it is also from the outside, and the efficiency is greater than that of a single. or am I mistaken that from niva from the outside stands?

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Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread message mishania ” Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:35:40

Rush Native of the forum Messages: 3590 Registered: Wed Mar 17, 2010 16:28:02 Car model: 2107i,1.6,color quartz Engine type: Injector Location: Donetsk Thanks (a): 33 times Thanked: 131 times Contact info:

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread post Rush ” Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:51:56

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread message mishania ” Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:54:19

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread post Buyny ” Thu Apr 14, 2011 17:30:15

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread post Susanin ” Thu Apr 14, 2011 17:38:55

Changed the native 6 blades to 8, the propeller is lighter but the noise is louder, I need to adapt from the foreign and louder

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Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread post Stalkerun ” Friday Apr 15, 2011 10:04:19

Axel4 Driver Messages: 64 Registered: Mon May 31, 2010 8:32:47 Car model: 21074 carb. 2004 century. Location: Noginsk, Volsk Thanked (a): 4 times Thanked: 7 times

Re: extra fan! Does it make sense.

Unread message Axel4 ” Wed Apr 20, 2011 16:31:25

+I totally agree. At me in a hot +37 and with peat baking in traffic, the arrow only reached the middle of the green zone (with the furnace closed). True stands a new radiator complete with a cooler, after the leakage of the old replaced all at once. I must say at once that the temperature sensor is good: when last spring the thermostat stuck – the arrow went straight into the red zone.

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Modification of cooling/heating system VAZ 2106

I don’t like driving with an electric fan in summer because of the constant turning on and the high temperature. And for about four years I’ve been playing around with a regular impeller on the pump pulley for the summer. It cools much better in the summer. I got tired of this case and decided to install both at once. There is no sense to install dual Niva fans on the stock engine, and it is necessary to move the hood loops. The space in front of the radiator lets me move the electric fan to the other side. I had all the horns in the front, so I had to take them off temporarily. After testing it was evident that it was a little bit too much, and does not allow the ECF to be mounted in the way it should be. First – the mount on the right side of the fan was cut off and the case strips were bent in different directions, new holes were drilled for the mount.

The second thing was to cut off part of the apron that was preventing the fan from sitting deeper.

The place of the cut was painted over with spray paint from the top of the can and the inside was lubricated with graphite. After that, the fan was back in place as it was.

Replaced the four-bladed impeller with an eight-bladed one from 08. The wiring to the motor was slightly increased with wire of the corresponding section. There was enough space for three signal horns.

I will put the long one behind the bumper from the inside, it won’t obstruct the engine space. Reinstalled new radiator Luzar turbo

. Immediately replaced the drain plug on it with a faucet, cap and temperature sensor. Then installed a new pump with increased flow also Luzar .

Installed the pulley, impeller and air intake.

The impeller on the pulley, from Niva, six-bladed. I don’t have the thermostat yet, I will be changing the alternator. Well, half of the job is done. Still have to replace the heater radiator and heater motor.

After remaking the heater and installing it checked its work already on the car. I am more than 100% happy with the result. 4 speed switch is very convenient to use, and blowing is something! The airflow on the 4 position is so strong that it blows everything in its path. The rear window defrosts in a couple of minutes if you point both deflectors to the rear. This modification is not difficult and it must be done, you can not compare it to the stock. The air flow is great now and for more temperature in the heater decided to install a pump from a gazelle. According to numerous reviews it adds a great temperature. I chose Startvolt.

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It has inlet and outlet pipes, reinforced inside, ceramic gland, 8-bladed impeller. It looks pretty well made. Time will tell how it behaves. Inlet to it took directly from the block.

Before the pump in the gap installed electro-valve also from the gazelle.

It is controlled by button for two positions without fixation. The valve has 4 wires: orange +, black -, the other two controlling. On the button central contact -, outermost control from the valve. Everything is simple. The lever of the heater crane cable was removed, the crane was left completely open. For lack of use, unscrewed the entire block of heater levers and “tucked” it into the depth of the torpedo. I had the cold air damper closed several times in its entire existence. When it is closed warm air goes bad in the summer, too open, I do not see the point in it. In place of the levers and ashtray (also removed since smoking quit about 15 years ago) will install a block with a button heater, el.klapana, forced cooling fan and heated seat button. For this I will do later in the heat, just brought out the wiring so far.

The output from the pump goes to the heater inlet.

Those who put the pump after the heater said that the effect is there, but less than before it. The pump was controlled in three modes: always on, off, and on at the same time as the heater regulator. This required five 4-pin relays. One directly to the pump, and the rest to turn it on from the heater regulator. The relay was installed on the engine bulkhead.

At the same time I put all the relays in order. Moved all installed in one row. Old rusty (but working) relay light replaced the new and shifted too in one place.

The pipes of the entire system also replaced by the new, better to do once than rebuild later.

The radiator fittings were ordered for aluminum radiator, but they were sent for copper. The upper one was shorter, I had to look for a suitable aluminum tube to lengthen it.

In our time it was not easy, all surrendered to the scrap)). Well sort of finished with the installation. I decided to fill antifreeze Sintek G11 silicate. On the site of the manufacturer recommended to fill it exactly G11 in Vase before 2001. Since 2001 you can pour both G12 + carboxylate and G12 + lobrid new generation. Since they recommend it, I use Sintec G11 Ultra red.

Remained to start the car and check how it all works now.

Installation of electric windows in VAZ 2107

Preparing to install power windows in VAZ 2107