Cast iron electric radiators for heating
The idea of autonomous heating, not tied to the pipeline system, based on electric energy is most suitable for homes that have no gas supply. Somewhere it has become very relevant recently. The master made in his apartment self-contained heating based on cast-iron radiators with temperature control in each room. In this regard, it saves energy.
Total heated area at me is 68kv.m. The radiator at 11 sections is in the room at 16kv.m. The house of red brick, three sides border the street and insulated with 50mm foam, and one side borders on the neighbors. The average winter temperature outside our house is -10 -15 degrees. In winter, the average consumption of electricity per month, purely for the use of heating, is about 1750 kW / h.
zapilimne Remove the word “autonomous” from the name, it has nothing to do with it, unless you have your own power plant, of course. Heating with electricity is the most expensive way to heat. Do you know why they use central heating? Because at the CHP is a huge turbine, which rotates the steam and in addition to electricity gives a huge amount of heat as the exhaust, which turns out that is free, and instead of just throwing it into the atmosphere they heat the water and feed this water into homes for heating through the batteries, well roughly speaking. I do not understand these projects. Everywhere there is an opportunity to heat from the central heating or gas, electricity is heated when another way to heat the room is not possible.
REXXRS If the cast-iron battery hangs at a slight slope towards the heater, the water circulation will be even better. The large volume of water in the cast iron battery is also an excellent heat accumulator. With aluminum stable temperature in the room will be difficult to achieve, the shadow will be constantly on and off. Why not put two heaters at different ends, would it not be cheaper than ordering a special heaters?
BAU Давно еще при первом просмотре поставил лайк и идея понравилась. Этим летом менял трубы отопления и решил сделать подобное: поставил по одному слабому ТЭНу в каждой комнате жилой. Минимум 1 кВт максимум 1.5 кВт. И вот уже октябрь и идут испытания. Так вот Al-батарея показала более приятные рез-ты: в ней воды меньше, а Al как известно имеет лучше теплопроводность чем чугун и много воды. Соответственно воздух в комнате быстрее нагревается и на это уходит меньше энергии, чем в чугунных (новых) батареях, которые менял, старые заросшие на такие же но новые. Т.е. система работает достаточно эффективно в целом, но… если проводка и прочие условия позволяют — ставьте ТЭНы раза в 1.5-2 мощнее чем вы планировали, но не превышайте общую мощность! Тогда прогреваться будет помещение быстрее. Воздушные датчики не лепил, т.к. у меня газ и трубы отопления на месте, я просто грею нужные батареи в нужных комнатах, а не все сразу. У кого дом >50-60 m2 and only 220V – do not count on anything – not enough power to heat more than 2-3 rooms, will knock out automatic or something worse will happen. The author is probably a normal square-room, where the top-lower neighbors and the sides, too, ie, heat loss is minimal. In private homes, heat loss is much more … Take it into account. In such a huge battery as the author to put 0.8 kW just makes no sense. I have a cast-iron are 1 and 1.5 kW and they are only 7 sections, and here more than 10. When buying take the heating elements, wire, plugs – all the most powerful and branded! And most importantly – take the temperature regulators branded or ask for the possibility of exchange! I was offered China, Poland and Italy. I chose the average price and quality – Poland. Seems OK, but … noisy clacking and disturbing to sleep at night (I would like quieter. But in general – bearable.
Herald of Financialapocalypse It is easier to put a combined boiler on electricity and solid fuel with oil in the system. No problems with defrosting the system like with water. A little churka heats all night long! Another 3 priest built this system in the cabin at 120 meters, six heated rooms, and no one has since touched it. I’ve got a homemade pyrolysis boiler. Almost no smoke emissions.
Lighthouse Communism In vain cut out the water heating pipes. The total electricity consumption of all radiators is more than the consumption of the boiler for the total system. In addition, the pipes themselves provide additional heat, in addition to the radiators. I am engaged in heating systems, and I am ready to assert that it is more profitable to have a combined system (solid fuel + electric), than only electric. Apparently, the system was originally installed incorrectly, which is why there was a need for modifications. Combined heating is beneficial if the system is working properly.
Kyrylo Hrechyn – Beacon Communism Disagree! I have an electric boiler 6 kW and the batteries are not hot and high consumption! I have 5 rooms with 700W heating elements =3500W + thermostats, the radiators are hot! Consumption is 60% less. The advantage is that there is no water movement through the system.
Roman Roslyakov – Beacon Communism +kirill grechin could not stand … And what exactly is the advantage? Of course there is, if the pipe from radiator to radiator along the street. And about the fabulous 60%. Ridiculous couch experts.
Vasya Vasov + Roman Roslyakov Correct me if I’m wrong: 1) “For example, to increase by 1 ° C the temperature of water weighing 1 kg, requires the amount of heat equal to 4200 J, and to heat by 1 ° C the same mass of sunflower oil needs the amount of heat equal to 1700 J.” – Yes maybe the comrade exaggerated, but not by much. 2) What is the convenience? If something is out of order, there will be no heat in a particular room. etc.
Addendum after 4 years of using the battery and the heating element
Gavr On the 10 sectional bimetallic radiator can safely do 500 watt fan! In this case, the temperature of the radiator will fluctuate within 55-60 maximum, more than a fan to put it makes no sense. say 700 watts will give you a gain of no more than 5-10 degrees but in this case there is an effect of boiling kettle!
man 1377 Year ago It is certainly better to create pressure in the heater, cast iron can withstand up to 9 kg per cm per square meter, at high pressure boiling water temperatures higher, there are tables on the boiling water at different pressures, and powerful heaters are better because there is a reserve capacity, which (the power) can be managed, it’s my personal opinion, good luck. Alexander V
I am interested in the idea. But it can be further developed. Living in an apartment building can be additionally heated batteries with electric heating. But there are a number of conditions: safety (protection from electric shock), the availability of heat meter + the ability to isolate the battery from the central heating (taps). Thus, if not satisfied with the temperature of central heating – are disconnected from it and use electric heating, with heat meters do not count.
All logical, what was in the flooded water, all that could settle and stand out, stood out and settled. If you take the boiler on the central pipe, where the new (g) water is constantly running, respectively, and the scale will accumulate from the new (g) water. It is only strange that for 4 years the water was not refilled, so little evaporation? Alexei Viktorovich 2 weeks ago I bought a similar heater, but mine is not narrowed as you have in the video and does not fit in the radiator, too wide for the inner sockets that connect the sections. Friends, please advise, I can compress the heater for subsequent installation in the radiator and this procedure will not affect its performance? Thank you.
Mastubastique Very much want to make such a thing for heating the garage (18m2, concrete floor, solid brick walls, lined with foam insulation). Need a more or less portable system, cast-iron batteries are too heavy to carry, will the good of modern aluminum batteries, for example, two for 4-6 sections? I’m thinking in the direction of the tenes 300-500W, as the coolant – household antifreeze type dixis top or analogue. I ask for advice. Sasha Sashkin + Mastubastique and what heater screwed into the aluminum battery? There’s a small hole, or a separate tank for the heater and connect the pipes will be? Alexander Lebedev Do you have under the foam padding on the walls of the moisture collected? I have a garage of penoblokov, sheathed foam plastic hundreds, heated kilowatt in the oil-filled battery, five years was normal. Last year the smell of dampness appeared, it turned out the foam plastic all damp. I think they glue the outside and foam-fol 20 inside and battens zashivkoy.
Dmitriy Dovzhenko You have good water, I have a year on the heating element appeared scale, when you try to wash it off there were small sinks dots, in an apartment in a room of 16 sq.m. Heating element 1 kw enough, plastic windows, I think if more insulation foam, it will be even less to eat, and yet, you how to close the FEN, where the connection wires, I have a small child, I’m afraid that will fit.
How to make a heater from a cast iron battery with their own hands
The search for alternative sources of heating in recent times is often the task of many private homeowners. This question is especially important for owners of apartments in old “Khrushchev”, as there have to change the cast-iron batteries for new ones during the repair. And there is also the question of what to do with the old radiators. There is a solution – to make a heater from a cast-iron radiator with their own hands.
Many people give preference to the self-made heater from the battery, because the device is economical to use, if compared to heating with electricity or solid fuel.
Home masters have long used a device made of a cast-iron battery and a heating element, which has many advantages. The main advantage can be considered economical heating of small rooms: hen house, garage, etc. But on the condition of proper connection. It is worth noting that in this option it is not necessary to use additional energy sources.
Such a device can be used not only as the main device for heating small rooms, but also for apartment heating, already as an additional source.
Tubular electric heater consists of tubes, inside which there is a spiral. The inner part of the tube is not in contact with the spiral, as a special insulation is installed. If you install such an element in a cast-iron battery, you can get a lot of benefits, namely:
- the design meets all regulations and is completely safe for people;
- high coefficient of performance;
- Heating elements do not take up much space, since their main part is directly in the heating system;
- are economical to use, because they often have a thermostat;
- Use several times less energy compared to conventional heating boilers or systems “Warm Floor”;
- to install such a heating element does not need to obtain any permits from the regulatory authorities, it is enough to install it in the network system.
It is not necessary to have special knowledge of electrical installation work to install the heating element. Often the kit contains additional elements, fasteners and all the necessary parts for safe installation. Simply put, the heating element is only screwed into the socket of the cast iron battery, and then plugged into the socket.
Important! Tubular electric heater is installed only in a horizontal position, and you can turn it on only when the system is filled with coolant (water or any prepared liquid).
Heating elements have a good level of safety, because they have a built-in overheating protection system. Temperature control sensors are placed both inside and outside.
The newest models of electric tube heaters have two modes of operation. This allows their use for different purposes, i.e. as the main source of heat supply and as an additional one. In the first variant, the heating element is turned on at full power, and the safety system will protect it from overheating.
As an additional or emergency source of heat, it is advantageous to use it in dachas, where people do not live permanently. But you should take into account the fact that this type of heating will need to monitor the winter, so that the batteries do not freeze.
To effectively heat the room, the boiler from the battery with his own hands should be made with a heating element of suitable capacity. To correctly select a tubular electric heater, it is necessary to calculate the amount of coolant in the battery, and then already buy a device of appropriate capacity.