Electric lighter for gas (Little Lightning)
Hello all who read this post, this is my first blog so do not kick me, I like to make useful things with their own hands I find it very interesting today will talk about necessary and irreplaceable things in the kitchen as a lighter for gas, but first things first, let’s go!
1. Our lighter will be powered by a laptop battery which we dismantled for our needs.
2. To avoid taking the case apart every time the battery will run out, we will put the lithium battery charging board based on the tp 4056 chip, and here you will probably say that there are boards that have a built-in lithium battery controller.
3. To raise the voltage from 3.6v to ~ 3. To boost the voltage from 3.6 to 20 kV, we’ll take a DC-DC converter without a voltage multiplier ordered at ali express.
4. to rectify the voltage obtained after the converter and get a good discharge, let’s make a simple voltage multiplier circuit on the legendary diode kts 106 and capacitors at 5 kV 2.2 nf. Don’t blame the quality of soldering.
5. since the inverter eats about 1 amp, we need a button that will serve for a long time, in the stash found at 250v 6a with some kind of device I do not remember pressing gently.
6. The igniter was taken from a Chinese lighter was removed from the middle instead of copper wire with a diameter of about 1.5 mm at its pre shrink three layers of shrink
and wrap it with Kapton tape
the end of the electrode, which will form a spark, stripped of insulation at 8mm, install it to the tube fits tightly!
Take the case from the laptop power supply
Work a little with a file and a utility knife to mount the button
make a hole for the charger (yes you can print on a 3d printer a unique enclosure that will be more ergonomic and comfortable, and also have all the necessary holes, mountings, but I do not have it yet)
Throw the parts in it determine the place of each part in it all fits perfectly, the body a little cracks chipped, but for us it is not critical, drilled a hole for the igniter, put the multiplier, the igniter wires are wired, put the battery with the charge board fixed with hot glue
install converter with the button
close our device glue and test charging goes
discharges brisk cyclic repeatability high gas burns for sure
Thank you all who read this point, I hope this post was interesting to you, in the plans to build soldering station with their own hands and a lot more interesting P.S. take all comments and criticism write in the comments wishes of recommendations. Goodbye, everybody, and see you next time!
Electric arc lighter for gas with my own hands
This article is writing after 3 months of using the lighter, which I should note that during this time the lighter did not even have to recharge.
So the essence of the project – to create a silent in operation, low cost and rechargeable arc lighter in the shortest possible time.
A few words from me before I start. Really good lighter, everyone is happy with the work, so if you have a little experience in winding BB transformers, I recommend to assemble.
The circuit is super simple, only 3 components. It was the usual blocking oscillator on a high power FET, this version was used in the earliest versions of my stun guns. Provides quite impressive power with a good power supply.
The IRFZ 44 field effect transistor can be replaced with any other N channel FET with current over 20 Amps, motherboard style FETs will do.
Because of the short operating time the PMT does not heat up and there is no need for a heat sink. You can also use bipolar transistors (reverse conductivity) only in this case you must change the winding data of the primary winding. For example in the case of using transistors like KT819/805 etc., the primary winding is wound with 0,5-0,7 mm wire, koh turn 2×20/25, data of the secondary winding are not changed.
The secondary winding is also not critical, wire diameter of 0.06 to 0.1mm, the number of turns 800-1500, core and frame can be found in electronic transformers (those designed to supply office halogen 12 volt) 20-60 watts, worth about 100 rubles.
The secondary winding is not wound in bulk, but in layers. Each layer consists of 80-100 turns of wire, during the secondary winding process the wire is never cut. The interlayer insulation can be made with regular transparent scotch tape (about 3-5 turns of scotch tape per winding layer)
The power supply can be any lithium-ion battery (only one 3.7 volt bank), the battery standard is not critical.
To charge the battery from the USB charge controller was used, the controller is equipped with protection against short circuit, undervoltage and overcharge the battery. The battery will disconnect as soon as the battery voltage drops below 3 volts (plus or minus).
“Link to Charge Board”
Such a controller costs about $0.5 and is sold on aliexpress.
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The case is taken from a TIC-TAC, all the stuffing fit perfectly.
The electrodes between which the “searing arc” is formed are made of solid copper wire , diameter from 2 to 4 mm.The wire ends are cleaned of lacquer coating, this is where the arc is formed.