Installation of fog lights on Volkswagen Polo Sedan.
I think there is nothing new to tell. Like many others have decided to set my headlights. Immediately planned their installation xenon 4800. It was ordered from China.
As I found out later there is the original and not the original. The original only the usual under the halogen. The non-original are regular halogen lights, but they are very weak and in most cases melt and have a lensed xenon or halogen lights, but they do not have a plastic reflector.
The fog lights themselves, of course lenticular as in the ordinary can not put xenon, well, if you do not care about the others, you can.
Under the H11 DEPO 441-2025L-UQ and 441-2025R-UQ Lining in the bumper.
Headlight grille with chrome left 6RU 853 665 Headlight grille with chrome right 6RU 853 666 Light switch also from China. Pin in the switch connector N 906 845 05 – 1 pc. Pin to fuse block. N 907 326 03 – 2 pcs. and M6 lug. For the minus terminal. Just wire 5 meters of red and 5 meters of black wire section of 1.5 sqm. Wires taken with a reserve. Well, and a couple of types of corrugations. For one wire and for two.
Wiring from the switch to the fuse block. The wire is red. Length of about cm. 50 . At one end of the pin N 906 845 05 at the other end of the pin N 907 326 03
The wire wrapped with cloth tape.
Remove the left side of the bulkhead cover. Take out the switch. To remove it retract in 0 mode then turn the switch to the lights. Insert the wire in the 8 connector.
Now remove the fuse box. Do not forget to disconnect the terminal. To do this first unscrew one screw that holds the air duct. Take it off so it doesn’t get in the way. Then unscrew the two screws of the fuse box and take it out.
There are 54 fuses in the box. It is also signed PTF fuse, why not put it in its place. Insert the second end of the wire into the appropriate connector.
Well, here stage one is over. Let’s move on to the water procedure.
Let’s conduct wiring from PTF to the fuse box. There is a very difficult question how to pull the wire. There are site hints in which it is recommended to pull under a fender and to lead a wire near door socket. But I decided to pull almost the original way. And in order to do that you need to.
In the engine compartment, we unhook the engine brains.
Here they are already removed.
Further we remove the bracket itself.
Then we remove the skin of the engine compartment.
And the most tedious thing is to remove a partition between an engine compartment and a compartment with wipers.
By the way while it was removed I glued some vibra on it because it rings like tin.
This is the view after its removal.
I was interested in the place under the wiper motor. There wiring harness goes into the cabin. There is a so to say free connector on rubber band. We cut off a tip on it and here is the place where it is possible to stick a wire.
Unfortunately, it is not seen on the photo.
So we are putting the wire through there. It was more convenient for me to put it through from the salon. Although there is nothing visible and you can find this passage only with your fingers. I think there is nothing for proctologists to do there, and I had to struggle. But it’s still more convenient to shove the wire in from there.
We slip the right amount of wire into the engine compartment. Further I took it out near the cup. First, I brought the minus wire up to the battery, I put it in a thin conduit because there is only one wire. But from the battery had two. Because I took the minus from there. But then I changed it and took the minus from the pads on the spars. If you remove the PTF and look in the hole these pads are visible and easily accessible. So pulling to the battery is not necessary. In the photo wire goes, but then I took it off.
Next, the wire went in a thicker case to the left fog light.
Up to the right held two wires at once. Wired under the front panel.
There are handy hooks here.
By the way, when I removed the panel was a surprise. Russian assembly. One screw was not fastened.
The headlights were removed purely for convenience, it is not necessary to remove.
Well, then all the wires are insulated. We put the corrugation and fasten it.
Next, you should fix the connectors, but I would not do that yet. Because xenon has not arrived. And with it come the connectors I need.
With these self-tapping screws. They were screwed out of a foreign car somewhere. I hope they will not rust.
That’s it. You can assemble under the hood.
Further into the cabin. There wire again in a thin conduit. And wrapped a cloth tape to avoid crickets. The end of the wire is wrapped with the second pin and into the fuse box. The wire is laid and secured. And you can install the box in place. I did not do this because it was parallel to the second project to install door closers.
Some pictures are not mine took them because they are more successful than mine. Sorry, but I do not know the original sources hopefully did not offend anyone.
Installing PTF on the Comfortline
Well, it finally happened, I installed PTF! Here I also want to share with you the process of installation. I tried to do the whole kit “according to feng shui”. What you need to buy for assembling these headlights: Light switch from HighLine 6R0 941 531 GAPV (I bought it on Ali) – 632 rubles. Taillight grille with chrome left 6RU 854 661 9B9 – 850 rubles. There is an analogue: STVWP62191 Right TFF grille with chrome 6RU 854 662 9B9 – 850 rubles. There is an analogue: STVWP62192 Protective corrugation, diameter 10mm, approx. 10m (bought on the market) – 150RUB. Approx. 10m wire with cross section 1,5mm2 (bought at the market) – 150RUB. Headlight with lamp left 1T0941699C – 1,700 rubles Headlamp with lamp right 1T0941700C – 1700 rub. HB4 connector 8JD 156 151-807 – 2 pcs. – 266 rubles Headlight mounting bolt N 104 128 04 – 6 pcs. – 48 rub. Connector to switch N 906 845 05 – 27 rubles Connector to fuse box N 907 326 03 – 2 pcs. – 20 rubles Headlight clamp to housing (minus) inner diameter 8mm – 2 pcs. (bought in a radio components store) – 30 rubles Fuse 15A N 017 131 12 – 15 rubles. All in all about – 6438 rubles.
Additionally I bought on Ebay for the experiment with the light: 20W HB4 LED lamp – 2 pcs. – 980 rub. Total with LEDs: 7418 rubles.
Tools you will need for installation: Crimping tool or pliers, wire cutters, knife, TORX T20 screwdriver, soldering iron (with tin and rosin), electrical tape, cable ties. So let’s proceed to the installation process: I will not lay out a scheme of PTF, I will tell you this: Power (plus) to PTF takes from the switch through the fuse, which will be installed additionally in the fuse box. After the fuse, the power goes to both headlights. The minus of each lights is taken by connecting the terminal to the car body. No additional relays are required, everything is connected in the same way as it is done on the HighLine version. Unclip the terminal from the battery, jack the front left wheel, remove the wheel, remove the fender unscrewing 16 self-tapping screwdriver TORX T20. This procedure is necessary for routing the power cable from the light switch to PTF.
2.After you removed the fender on the right side, we see the sponge and a plastic cover – remove them. I was in the way of the turn signal – I took it off. After removing this plug as in the photo:
Laying the wire in a corrugated tube (a pain in the neck, I tell you!), remove this plug by feeling it from the cabin and make a hole in it the desired diameter with a knife:
We put a plug on its place and pull the wire laid in the corrugation through the plug into the salon. It is enough to pull about 50 cm inside the cabin. The wire will go to the terminal of the fuse block.
3.Remove the fuse box by opening the cover and unscrewing the two screws block, in addition you need to unscrew one screw of the air duct at the driver’s feet and remove this air duct, otherwise you can not take out the fuse box. After taking out the fuse box, remove the cover from the back.
Crimp the wire that we have brought up with the connector N 907 326 03 and put it in the free space, I chose #60 – Reserve.
Prepare the wire from this fuse to the light switch by crimping about 50cm of wire from one end with the plug N 907 326 03 and the other end with the plug N 906 845 05.
Insert one end of the wire into the fuse block as the second fuse terminal and put the 15A fuse itself at once. The other end of the wire into the socket PTF switch according to the picture, first remove the switch itself, for this press the handle, turn it to the right to the symbol of the lights and pull the switch itself, unhook the socket.
After installing the additional terminal in the connector PTF instead of the old switch and install the new switch in place.
This completes the work inside the car. 5. make holes in the plastic cover and the sponge for the conduit and lead the conduit itself with the wire as in the photo:
The wire in the conduit pull under the fender hiding it under the sponge, which is at the top of the fender, lead the conduit to the left front PTF and cut the wire with the necessary margin. 6.Remove both front grilles, wash the mounting points of PTF, lead the wire to the left PTF.
The terminal “minus” for the left lights can be taken for example here, as on the photo:
Crimp and lead the “minus” wire into the same harness and lead both wires to the left TFG, crimp the wires with the HB4 connector kit (8JD 156 151-807).
7. To the wire “plus” fix on twist another wire, which will go to the right TFG. Solder the twisting place and insulate with tape. The wire to the right PTF lead also in corrugation from the top of the radiator, where necessary fasten the corrugation with cable ties, derive the wire to the right PTF. Terminal minus for the right lights is taken for example here, as in the photo:
Minus terminal crimp and lead in a corrugated, where necessary fasten the wire to the right PTF and also crimped a set of connector HB4. 8.And the most interesting: put the headlights themselves PTF, connectors in the lamps, lamps themselves fix self-tapping screws N 104 1028 04.
9. 9. We put a fender and a wheel in place, take it off the jack. We are installing new grills of PTF with chrome.
10.We check the work of PTF by turning on the new switch, the switch works on the scheme: lights + PTF or lights + low beam + PTF or lights + low beam + PTF + rear PTF, or just as usual without PTF. To turn on the PTF pull the switch handle toward you, if you pull it toward you again, the rear PTF will turn on. I deliberately put LED instead of halogen bulb in right headlight to experiment with light color and its brightness (read usefulness). That’s why the photo shows different light from the headlights:
That’s it! We got even closer to the Highline! Conclusions: 1. If you need low beam headlights for checking or daytime running lights then LEDs will do fine for this purpose, but they do not shine at all in comparison with halogen lights. If you need light that beats fog, then you should use halogen lights. 2.PTFs make the car look more solid and help in the fog, which means I have not done the work for nothing. As a result, I left the halogen lights, xenon in the headlights do not think about. Remains to adjust the beam of light from the PTF as time will be. Hit the appropriate buttons, who liked the article, good luck on the road drivers (or drivers2?) :))))
