Air filter replacement, drain cleaning, interior dampness issue.
Sequence of work: – Remove the decorative panel.
– Unscrew 3 self fixing the inlet pipe. Dismantle the branch pipe.
– Loosen 2 self-tapping screws fixing the heat shield. Unfasten the brackets fixing the metal vent pipe, if they are still alive on your car. If the brackets are broken there is no sense in loosening the self-tapping screws. Since all existing Passat filters have been changed not once the probability to see these fasteners whole tends to zero…
– Loosen the clamp, remove the rubber L-shaped connector from the return valve fitting. (Old nipples often break at the crimping point, there is air leakage. If the clamp is tightened too much the probability of destruction of the branch pipe increases).
Remove the connector from the solenoid valve of N-80 adsorber ventilation. “Pull” the rubber jacket of the valve from the plastic protrusion on the air filter housing.
– Loosen the clamps securing the “caterpillar” and the UHV pipe (remove the disposable clamp, replace with a worm clamp when reassembling). Disconnect the caterpillar and the IHB spigot from the filter housing. There must be a rubber ring between the connector on the filter box and the IHB spigot. When reassembling, grease the inner surface of the ring a little with oil or silicone grease.
– Remove the rubber stopper from the hole for the connector of the air pressure switch.
– Take off the connector from the air pressure monitor connector. (In the vast majority of cases, if there were naughty hands of service men in this unit, the fitting will be broken, as on the photo). The principle of fixing the chip is the same as on the ignition coils (Passat after 2000yrs). On AEB the connector is different, with a spring clip. It is even easier to remove.
– Unscrew the bolt fixing the box of the filter (head or wrench 10). Remove the wires and pipes away from the filter box area. Remove the box with an upward movement.
– Loosen 4 clips fixing the box cover, remove the cover. Remove the old filter element. Shake out the dirt from the bottom of the box. Clean the seat for the new filter.
Install new filter element.
– Reassemble in reverse order. When installing the box, make sure that the rubber feet on the box fit into the mating holes in the spar. 2.
2. I also noticed that the mats on the left side of the car (driver’s side and the passenger’s side behind him) are wet. No water underfoot, but the comfort unit needs to be kept dry. Went to study the forum for water. Here’s what I found: Water in the cabin, aquarium in the battery compartment and other drains
Decided to clean the drains under the battery.
– Remove the battery, which requires removing a bolt and of course remove the terminals from the battery.
Next, after removing the battery we will see the first drainage hole
After having looked a little bit deeper under the vacuum brake booster we will see one more drainage hole.
Since the sun went down, I decided to postpone the cleaning of the hatch drains for the weekend.
Can you tell me where else the water can come from? If you look at the car from the front, on the right side under the windshield is the hood opening cable, I shoveled 2 handfuls of earth from there, could it be leaking?
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Volkswagen Passat 2004, 1.8L, 200HP, front wheel drive, automatic transmission – own hands
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Can you tell me where it goes. It’s hanging in the air at all in my
I dunno, look at the diagram.
The hole is centered No bolt should be there?
we started with b5+ blue and ended up with b5)))
…and myself on a silver B5+… )))
I didn’t know what the box from the brains looked like 3 years ago.
Please tell me what kind of plastic tube goes to the filter you have in the photo where you say to remove the disposable clamp, is it svvc? How is it critical when it is disconnected and without a clamp? What does it do?
Thanks so much for the report, did the same thing today. But looking at the photos, I was puzzled by one question, he certainly is not about anything, but why the glove with the nubs out)))? Is it a technique, tactic, strategy, or just backwards?
you took off the spigot there was no rubber gasket inside?
sorry, i only took the valve off the air case, i did not look inside, i did not pull the spigot off it
I have a rubber bushing that goes inside the tube that goes to the air valve, I was wondering if you have it or not?
I can’t help you, I don’t know much about VGC in general… f1.s.qip.ru/16IxPIiUL.png – I have one and I have not disassembled this unit, I just move it aside when I change the air filter.
Yep…not fun on lighters to change the filter….
About the water, if no one has yet climbed in, it’s definitely worth changing the gasket (or sealant) under the air filter and ECU.
It is not necessary to remove the window cover to remove the filter body. But if you take it off you can disassemble and lubricate the brake horn at the same time. Even if there is no problem with it (you will be surprised how it still rubs and works). If you remove the liner – be sure to buy / borrow a puller specifically for wipers. I almost killed a day to remove them!
Second problematic place – the door panels (more than sure that the water gets under them). Before you remove the door panels, I advise you to buy a dozen new pistons. There is a chance that they were there before you and half of them will be broken.
Good luck with the repair!
Thanks for the great comment, on the merits! I’ll start with gluing sealant under the ECU? The right side of the car is dry, so it does not pour under the cabin filter. As for the door cards, I hope they are not leaking, otherwise it would be a loss) No need to disassemble the doors.
Most likely the door cards! I didn’t want to get into the doors until recently. Thought it was complicated… All you have to do is remove the door trim. You don’t have to disassemble the door itself! Get yourself a set of plastic “picks” for the interior (cheap, easy to disassemble the interior quickly). It took me about 40 minutes to remove the trim the first time. Did everything slowly, to get a feel for it. After that – everything is much faster. All you need to do is unscrew 2 torxes, 2-3 bolts, unhook 6 pistons and disconnect the wires Do not delay, Autumn will start to “float” … P.S. And yes, I just leaked from the driver’s side …
I also have extra noise on the doors. I don’t want to tear it off… How do I check if the door is leaking?
You could slip newspaper in. You could put something on the sill when it’s raining. You can take a hose and pour it over the glass (you need about 10 minutes. The gasket will soak up the water first and then start to leak).
Filters in VW Passat b5: rules and timing of replacement
Any car is accompanied by a user manual, which specifies the recommended timing of maintenance and a list of expected work. Volkswagen Passat b5 is no exception. For example, oil filter replacement for the first time is made at TO-1 (every 15,000 km) and at each subsequent inspection. The cleaning elements of other systems and their replacement also have their own requirements.
Changing the air filter
You can learn how to change the filter from the owner’s manual. The manufacturer specifies a mileage interval of 45,000 km in the owner’s manual. A visual inspection for clogging is carried out at the next maintenance service.
It is not difficult to replace the filters on the VW b5 on your own. Replacement of the atmospheric filter is carried out in a few minutes. With the help of regular screwdrivers remove the part, install the new element. With intensive use of the car, it is recommended to reduce the service interval by a third.
Cabin filter replacement
You can replace this element with your own hands, without the use of special tools. The element is not located inside the cabin, but outside under the windshield on the passenger side. Term of replacement of this detail is designed for 30 km. mileage, with regular checks every 10-15 thousand km.
Part number | Name |
1H0819644B | Original |
K1006A | Filtronk 1006 |
CUK 2882 | MANN CU2882 (carbon) |
MAHLELA-31 | LAK-31 |
The cost of the original filter element on the Volkswagen Passat B5 ranges from 500 to 1200 rubles.
How to change the cabin filter Passat B5
- Open the hood and remove the rubber seal.
- Remove the jabot, which provides easy access to the cabin filter.
- Remove the retainer and then remove the cleaning element.
- Wipe the tray of dust and debris, install the new part (in mirror order).
Fuel filter replacement
The fuel filter is replaced at each TO after zero (15 000 km of mileage) or if there are deformations that destabilize the work of the element.
- Under the bottom on the right side find the right part.
- Engage the gear, mount anti-roll bars. Put the rear of the car on a jack, secure the suspended car with beams or other supports.
- Unscrew a pair of nuts, fixing the rear lower polymer protection.
- Unscrew the safety guard, behind which is the fuel filter.
- Unscrew the two mounting bolts of the bracket, mated with the body.
- Disconnect the filter together with the inlet and outlet pipes.
- Remove the element with a container for collecting fuel residue.
Changing the oil filter in Volkswagen Passat b5
Oil filters need to be replaced at every service. It is also recommended to change the oil itself, for the variety allowed by the manufacturer. It is strongly undesirable to mix fluids of different brands. Before pouring a new mixture, the engine must be thoroughly flushed. Cold engine is started and warmed up to working temperature. Park the vehicle on the parking brake, jack up the body from the left side and install the safety struts.
Considering that the oil pan drain is on the right side, lifting the left side of the body will allow you to drain the liquid to the maximum. Further manipulation is carried out as follows:
- Open the hood and unscrew the cover of the oil pan.
- Remove the protection of the internal combustion engine, loosen the plug of the drain pipe with a wrench for 19.
- If the joints are dried up or corroded, they are treated with a compound such as VD-5 or analogues.
- Unscrew the plug completely, drain the oil into a prepared container (volume not less than 4 liters).
- While the liquid is draining replace the filter element (from above).
- After these operations, the assembly is carried out in mirror order.
Replacing filters on the Volkswagen Passat b5 does not provide much difficulty in an independent intervention. But if there is no appropriate experience or time, it is better to turn to the experts.
Useful recommendations
Oil filters require replacement at every service. It is also necessary to change the oil itself, for the variety allowed by the manufacturer. It is strongly undesirable to mix fluids of different brands. Before pouring a new mixture, it is necessary to flush the engine thoroughly. A cold engine is started and warmed up to working temperature. The car is set on the parking brake, the left side is jacked up and safety blocks are installed.
Replacing filters on the Volkswagen Passat b5 does not provide much difficulty in an independent intervention. But if there is no appropriate experience or time, it is better to turn to the experts.
With timely and correct replacement of the filtering elements, there is an improvement in fuel supply, its maximum output and the issuance of a minimally harmful waste. All the nuances can be found on the official website of the company.