Express oil change. Or an oil suction device with my own hands.
I decided to make this device for some reasons: – To change oil easily. To use washes and not being limited in time and resources in the form of money. – Not required a pit. To unscrew protection. I have it on countersunk nuts and it is rather difficult to install even on a pit. – It drains almost completely on the RIO JB. We have a drain hole above the bottom of the sump.
This device is vacuum based. You will need a compressor, I used one from a refrigerator. Housing from the sewage pipe and a couple of plugs for it. It is better to use the ginger pipe, it is thicker and stronger. The compressor is quite strong vacuum and you have to watch that not to snap the pipe. It takes a couple of minutes to evacuate the air and the vacuum is enough to evacuate the oil.
This is what it looks like after assembly:
The black tube into the dipstick for pumping out. FEBI 07722 PLASTIC TUBE 6X1.0MM. FEBI (A0009872627) (MIN 25M.) – 1m = 36p
Fittings on the plug: LADA 21081156010 VAZ-2108 FUEL RETURN VALVE — 30r
Through the check valve connected to the compressor intake.
Made the level of pumped oil, but a little more expensive set device ))) . Can not do.
Proceeded to test in the case. Warmed engine to hot. Inserted a plastic tube into the “dipstick”, about 50-60 cm goes in. Then it felt good when it hit the bottom of the sump. I would not advise putting it in any harder, the tube will bend and get stuck in some corners. Only all the way to the bottom of the pan. We switch on the compressor for a couple of minutes to rarefy the volume in the device. The oil is pouring out instantly. In 20 seconds 250g of oil is poured out. That is 3 liters will drain in 4-5 minutes. Pretty fast for the entire volume. At the beginning of the video, first time I tried the device and the tube is not all the way in, and pumped out the air weakly.
Pumped out about 3.1 liters. The level was just below max and the filter was not unscrewed yet, there was still oil in the filter and in the oil ducts and in the pump receiver.
Next decided to rinse with flushing oil with 200g of solvent to flush. Such flushing oil: Luxe 601 luxe mpa2 flushing oil 5l —- 439r
Such solvent. Color is light yellow. Dissolves sludge well. Varnish takes up very slowly.
Poured half of flushing oil (about 2.5 L), stretching it twice. Dipstick to minimum. Started, warmed up a bit and slowly added 200g of solvent through the neck cap.
Worked for about 15 minutes and pumped out the flushing oil. After 15 minutes of work with solvent it came out:
Next, change the filter. It is possible to change it from above. Just put more hoes under the filter. But the process is not visible to the eye. I decided to change it through the arch. Lift it with jack. Remove wheel and cover of arch (2 bolts).
I bought a wrench for the filter. PARTNER PA10687915 Wrench for oil filter (cap) 79MM X 15GR —-232r
From the top of the hood through the hood put the oil filter remover with a ratchet. The same loosen from the top and tighten after installing the new one.
Putting some rags underneath, unscrewed the filter. It is better to put a narrow container to catch the oil. Then you can also pump it out from there or take it out carefully. It poured out all right, about 100-150 grams. Later I pumped out a little more oil into the oil pan.
Next I put the filter MANN W81180 (189rub.) soaked in oil. I filled up with fresh oil ZIC 162616 MOTOR OIL SYNTHETIC X7 FE 0W-30 4L (1300 rubles).
Put a piece of paper to check for oil leakage. Checked the oil leakage.
Then I took a look at the neck:
Gut was a little patched in some places, but bearable, no wild sludge. Flushed the deflector later while cleaning and spot replacing the hydro-compensators (faulty). Took the camshafts off. But that’s a whole other story…
Car was parked on a hill and the oil level wasn’t right. Drove around a bit and topped it up on a level parking lot. I had about 200-300 grams left in the canister. That is, the oil took about 3.7 liters to fill. Surprised, usually in the service station fill 3.3 liters to the maximum. Ie. At RIO 2 pumping oil to a lot more evacuate oil than just when draining through the cork.
Here is such an experience, an experiment. There is an opinion that through the plug is better and under pressure removes slurry, sludge, clots. My opinion is that you can’t have all that in your engine and particles get stuck in the filter. If there are clots of sludge in your engine, you should think about your proper engine maintenance. Yes and clots are unlikely to fly out, they settle well on the bottom in the corners. Since the plug is higher than the bottom. Camera probe just arrived and next time I change, I’ll look under the plug and in the dipstick. Might see something interesting…
Express engine oil change in the car: features, pros and cons
Car owners have two quite opposite views on replacement of engine oil: some people prefer to do it at service stations, others are used to perform this operation independently, the good thing is that there is nothing complicated about it in principle.
But even experienced car owners, having experience of many tens of years of car ownership, can not always boast of knowledge about alternative method of lubricating fluid replacement. It is even more strange, because the hardware method has been practiced in our country for quite a long time. True, this service is not offered by all service stations, but today you can make such a replacement yourself.
Those who are familiar with this technology, also were divided into two camps: one express method of oil replacement is praised by others – scolded. So which of them is right?
All such disputes are the result of lack of information. We will try to bring clarity to this question by describing the essence of vacuum method of oil change, its features, advantages and disadvantages.
Essence of the method of a hardware oil change
First of all, it should be noted that you should distinguish between an express change of the lubricating fluid, performed independently, and carried out at a car service center with the use of expensive specialized equipment. It is clear that quality of the latter method will be notably higher, so let us first describe professional ways of quick oil change.
An oil-changer is usually used for this purpose. As with the usual method, the engine must be preheated to the operating temperature level (if the manufacturer recommends changing the oil on a cold power unit, you do not need to warm it up, and if the engine is still hot – let it cool down).
The process itself is very simple: a special tube is inserted into the oil filler neck of the engine, with the help of which the lubricating liquid is pumped out. The process is initiated by creating a vacuum in the tube, due to which the oil is moved to a pre-prepared container (professional installations are equipped with their own receiving tank). Of course the vacuum created by the device should be very close to vacuum – only in this case you can rely on more or less complete emptying of the lubricating system from the used oil, together with all the heavy suspensions and insoluble deposits.
As a rule, the equipment for express oil replacement in the engine is equipped with a set of pipes, adapters and nozzles, allowing to perform the procedure regardless of the type of a particular engine or automatic transmission, their design features, geometry and location of the filler neck. This aspect is extremely important because on many models of cars the manual oil change operation can be problematic. For example, because of bad location of a drain hole, it is possible to reach it only having disassembled a considerable part of the car near the bottom.
True, it is worth noting and the fact that the peculiarities of the design of the engines of some cars (as an example can lead a rad model Subaru) does not allow exactly the hardware replacement of engine or transmission oil, so even with a great desire to you have to perform this procedure the classic manual way.
Due to the fact that there are many models of passenger cars, on which the usual method of replacement is associated with too high labor costs, the question of the expediency of the hardware replacement does not look so obvious. The more so, that car manufactures are not against using vacuum methods, recommending to combine them, or more exactly, to alternate them with classic ones. So the risks of using the accelerated technology can be considered as greatly exaggerated.
Moreover, manual and hardware oil changes alternately are considered by many motorists as the best way to keep the engine alive, saving money and time at the same time. In fact, the cost of express cleaning is not much, and the time needed for this procedure is minimal, and these two advantages more than compensate the fact that it is impossible to pump out the oil in full volume.
The argument of opponents of the express method, that it is impossible to ensure complete drainage of the lubricating liquid, does have some grounds, but they should not be considered valid in all cases. It all depends on the level of equipment used – the higher it is, the better the quality of waste fluid pumping will be.
This does not mean that budget amateur class oil changers are unsuitable for use. Their large selection in specialized stores allows equipping even a garage with such an installation, which makes it possible to perform the machine oil change by yourself. Amateur equipment is characterized by higher pressure in the receiving tank. This means that the pressure drop between the reservoir and the engine will not be as high as on a professional setup. And that means that in the crankcase of the power unit a really big part of the used oil will stay together with heavy particles, which are often problematic to remove even in a classical way without quality engine flushing. So it would be a mistake to recommend such an express change on a regular basis. But as a one-time means of replacement, when it is necessary to perform this procedure urgently, use of inexpensive device at home is quite acceptable.
Professional oil-changing equipment available at big service stations is another matter. Express oil replacement in the engine performed with the help of qualified staff is in no way inferior to the traditional manual method, and in some cases it exceeds it. In particular, the quality of getting rid of old oil residues and contaminants from the lubrication system.
It should also be noted that hardware replacement is characterized by high “promptness” – having arrived at the service station, in 15 minutes you will be able to go about your business. The cost of the procedure is also lower, because in this case there are no many technological steps that require installation, disassembly, maintenance work.
Usually, the procedure of draining the working fluid (ATF or MM) is accompanied by a visual assessment of the quality of work performed (as in the classical method of replacement) and diagnosis of the condition of the power unit lubrication system.
Regardless of the method of changing the lubricating fluid, this measure is usually accompanied by a simultaneous replacement of the oil filter. If we are talking about automatic transmission, then here some automakers allow oil filter replacement at every second change of the TM. In any case, the need to perform this step is determined by the master on the basis of a visual inspection of the oil filter condition.
To get rid of heavy fractions, the hardware procedure may also include an additional flushing of the lubrication system with a special flushing fluid, which allows almost completely get rid of the waste and clean hard-to-reach CC surfaces from various contaminants. Note that there is no need to flush every time you change the lubrication system. In general, the expediency of this step is determined by the technician, who performs the whole range of works on maintenance of your car.
After completing the work of the oil changer, you can proceed to filling with fresh oil.
Algorithm of vacuum replacement of MM
It should be noted that the express oil change can be performed with your own hands, but you can not do without special equipment. So, what we will need:
- A reservoir for collecting the used lubricating fluid;
- dipsticks, which are used to extract the technical fluids;
- a device (manual, automatic or semi-automatic) for pumping out the engine oil.
The procedure itself begins by warming up the power unit until it reaches operating temperatures, at which the oil becomes more fluid and flows easily into the crankcase, where it will be taken from. As with the manual method, through the drain hole.
We stop the engine, take out the dipstick from the regular hole (it goes almost to the bottom of the crankcase), instead of it we put a special tube or a hose, which should also reach the bottom, but not rest against it.
The other end of the hose is connected to the equipment for pumping technical fluids. When the machine is turned on, it creates a vacuum in the receiving tank, and the oil begins to flow from the engine crankcase to the oil-changing unit due to the pressure difference. After the procedure is complete, the hose is removed, and if it is not expected to flush the engine, you can proceed to the filling of fresh lubricant, checking the level by the regular dipstick, and you must do it twice – after the first pour it is necessary to start the engine, let it run for a few minutes and pour the liquid again.
We complete the event by replacing the used oil filter.
It should be noted that when performing oil replacement by hardware method, performed in garage conditions, you should pay close attention to the following points:
- the volume of drained oil must with a certain accuracy (100-200 ml) coincide with the volume of filled oil specified in the technical documentation for the car of the brand/model;
- when installing the drain hose, make sure that it is properly secured, as lack of tightness will affect the drainage efficiency;
- you must also be careful when removing the tube – if it is without a nozzle, you will have to remove the crankcase pan to remove it.
Advantages of Express MM Change
The vacuum method of changing the oil in the engine can not be called the most effective way of maintenance of the vehicle, but it has the right to life, having a number of undeniable advantages:
- First of all, it is a high speed of replacement. Usually if you do it in the service center, the moment from the application to the beginning of the procedure is the longest, but the replacement itself is made literally in 10-15 minutes (the more modern the equipment, the less time is spent on the event);
- Simplicity – if you have an equipped workplace, all you need to do is to remove the regular dipstick and replace it with a special tube or hose. In this case there is no need to access the bottom of the car, without which in the classical method it is impossible to drain the old oil (taking into account the presence of the crankcase protection, which is usually difficult to remove because of the corrosion on the bolt joints, this procedure can take a long time);
- express replacement does not even require the use of work clothes – the chances to get dirty with oil when handling the hose of the pumping equipment are minimal, which is not the case for manual drainage – the vast majority of motorists would easily agree with this;
- the cost of the procedure is often lower than the price of the classic service of changing the lubricating fluid, which is quite predictable in terms of technology of the procedure. Unfortunately, the gap will not be so big, because the cost of equipment is high, and it is necessary to pay it off. Considering that there are usually no queues for hardware replacement, this factor should also be taken into account.
So, if I were to characterize the hardware method in two words, it would be the phrase “quick and easy”.
But the advantages of express oil change are partially offset by disadvantages, the presence of which has not allowed the method to become anywhere near competitive.
Disadvantages of the express method
Simplicity, budget and small time costs are important factors, but if we are talking about the technical state of the engine, they are not decisive at all. Efficiency – these are the criteria for this procedure in the first place. Unfortunately, the vacuum method in most cases is not as good as the manual drain, but there are other disadvantages of this method:
- we have already mentioned that if you are not careful with the tube inserted into the hole for the dipstick, you risk breaking it, which will lead to the need to remove the pallet with all the ensuing consequences;
- as there is no need to use an elevator or a trestle to perform MM replacement with a hardware method, a master or a car owner (if you do it yourself) will not have the opportunity to simultaneously assess the condition of suspension, brakes and other elements of the body in its lower part;
- residuals of old oil mixed with new oil after vacuum pumping can significantly reduce the time between scheduled lubrication changes;
- If you plan to use a different oil (not to mention a different viscosity), you need to use a flushing fluid. But even in that case you can’t avoid mixing the used oil, flushing fluid and new MM, which will also affect the performance of such composition;
- Though in theory the use of more advanced devices means more effective pumping out the used engine oil from the engine, in reality even the professional level equipment is not able to cope with heavy fractions of contaminants – metal chips, particles of dirt, chipped sludge etc. Usually this slurry is deposited at the bottom of the crankcase, thickens and the only way to clean the sump of these contaminants is to remove the liquid through the drain hole, and that’s not always the case.
Having weighed all the pros and cons, we can definitely say only one thing: it is impossible to perform MM replacement only by express method. But single procedures are quite acceptable, especially if efficiency is important. It does not make much sense to buy expensive equipment to perform the procedure on your own. You will definitely not be able to pay back the equipment, even if you change the oil every month.
