How to wash injectors with your hands
Injector nozzles of both injector and diesel engines are clogged over time. It happens because there are small impurities in fuel, which the filter is not able to leave on its body (and moreover if it is old and/or low-quality). There are injector cleaners for sale, designed for professional cleaning and more affordable for cleaning with your own hands. Besides car owners have thought up some not complicated methods, allowing with the help of improvised means in garage conditions to make cleaning of injectors, the quality analogs to professional cleanings on stands. If you have thoughts or your own suggestions about this – share them in the comments.
Method one – with the help of a carburetor cleaner
If instead of a special tool for cleaning injectors you have stashed carbcleaner, you can in garage conditions perform cleaning of the gasoline injector yourself even with a carburetor cleaner from a can, instead of buying a liquid for the injector. Below we will describe one of such methods. For the work you will need:
- two pieces of clean rags, a knife and an awl;
- copper insulated wire with a small cross section and about one meter long;
- plastic ties and duct tape;
- a 9-volt electric battery (a popular “Krona”);
- A piece of oxygen hose about 4. 5 cm long; (when selecting, pay attention that the working cap of the cylinder fits the inner diameter of the oxygen hose and it can be inserted inside);
- Protective glasses and gloves.
It is necessary to work with the carbcleaner carefully, using the personal protective equipment, therefore it is necessary to wear goggles and gloves beforehand. Work algorithm:
Cleaning injectors with carbcleaner: video
- Remove the injector from the fuel manifold and clean it from outside with a rag (it is better to remove rubber seals from it beforehand);
- cut a piece of wire into equal parts and clean the insulation on one side of the resulting wires with a knife;
- connect the stripped ends of wires to the battery with tape;
- on the opposite ends of the wires with an awl slightly expand the insulation for further connection to the nozzle;
- make a hole in the cap of the carbcleaner with an awl in its upper part;
- insert the cap into the rubber hose (the “native” hole of the cap will be plugged by the hose) and clamp them with a plastic clamp;
- to install the received adapter on the tank of carbcleaner;
- cleaned from outside nozzle connect to the adapter from the rubber hose and squeeze with a clamp;
- connect the nozzle to the battery and you will hear a click, indicating that the nozzle is open;
- put the adapter with the nozzle on a bottle of carburetor cleaner;
- gently apply pressure (press);
- At the same time carburetor cleaner will come out in a vertical jet through the nozzle (this is what the glasses are for!).
Clean until the flare is even. After one cleaning you need to turn the nozzle upside down and repeat the operation. Then you can move on to cleaning the rest of the injectors.
Method two – using a flushing cylinder
This method can also be done in the garage with improvised means, it is good that there is no need to dismantle the engine nozzles, but as a cleaner will need to purchase solvent (Vince, Laur, Hi-Gyre or other). To work you will need:
A cylinder with a filter attached
- A clean two liter plastic bottle with a tightly closing cap;
- a compressor (to be able to deliver 3 atmospheres);
- flushing fluid (about one liter);
- drill and drill bit with a diameter of 13 mm;
- two clamps (12. 14 mm);
- fuel filter;
- two car nipples;
- 12 mm diameter hose about one meter long;
The work algorithm is as follows:
- on both sides of the bottle (on the bottom and on the lid) drill a hole;
- in the bottom of the bottle to screw in a nipple with a screwed valve;
- screw a nipple without a valve into the cap;
After that you should start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes and rest for 15 minutes. Then start the engine again and let it run until the bottle runs out of cleaning fluid. When the engine stalls, you must gently bleed the pressure from the bottle! This can either be done with a nipple or simply by gently unscrewing the cap.
After that you can disassemble the resulting system, connect the fuel hose back in place, and return the plug to its original position. After everything is assembled, you need to start the engine and let the car run for 5. 10 minutes. It is extremely desirable to change the oil and spark plugs (especially the spark plugs) after performing the described procedure.
The method of cleaning is quite simple, but it has a significant disadvantage – the lack of visual control of the state of the injectors. It may well be used for preventive purposes in case of suspicion that the injectors are clogged.
The third method – adding acetone
On numerous forums on the Internet, you can find many topics on whether you should add acetone to the gas tank. Despite the fact that official representatives of car manufacturers and refiners don’t say a word about it, many domestic (and not only) car owners add a small amount of pure acetone to the used gasoline.
Such action leads firstly to increase octane number of gasoline, and secondly, it has a cleaning effect on the fuel system elements (cleans carbon deposits), as well as binds water in gasoline and removes it together with the exhaust gases. As a rule, the effect of using acetone is felt after it has been added to a full (or nearly full) tank of gasoline and this fuel has subsequently been burned while driving.
A few words about the proportions. The amount of acetone added to gasoline depends, firstly, on the octane number, and secondly, on the quality of the fuel (admixture of water and harmful impurities in it). If the gasoline is good, it is enough to add 30 ml for every 10 liters of gasoline. As it gets worse, the amount of acetone may increase up to 150 ml per 10 liters of gasoline. However, do not get too carried away with adding acetone! This is due to the fact that since it increases the octane number, if its value is exceeded compared to that for which the engine is designed, it can lead to a gradual failure of the engine. And the higher the value is, the faster the engine will “break down”.
The fourth method – the use of Dimexide
To clean the nozzles, you can also use the popular drug Dimexid, sold at any drugstore, and costing very inexpensive. So, for work you will need:
- preparation Dimexide (500 ml or more, depending on the degree of contamination);
- A clean container of liquid with a lid, for example a bottle with a tightly closing cap of about 500 ml;
- two nipples;
- a drill (screwdriver) and a 13 mm drill bit (nipple diameter);
- four containers in the form of tubes, which will collect contaminated liquid from nozzles (separately for each nozzle);
- Battery or 12-volt power supply;
- air hose;
- solvent “Solvent”.
The procedure of cleaning consists of the following steps:
- Disassembly of the ramp with nozzles.
- Creation of stand for flushing.
- Inspection of injectors for productivity (they are mounted with the ramp on the stand with transparent vessels, for evaluation of spray jet and amount of released fuel).
- Soaking of separate injectors in a container with dimethoxide (necessarily in vertical position so that this aggressive remedy would not get on rubber seals).
- Flushing injectors with dimethoxy under pressure for 10-15 minutes.
- Flushing with solvent and blowing out with compressed air (so that there is no product left in the injector).
Flushing nozzles with dimethoxide is done similarly to the method using the installation with a cylinder. Therefore, you will first need to:
- make some structure to rigidly mount the removed ramp on it;
- Drill the lid of an empty container, and install one of the nipples there;
- Drill the bottom of the jar and screw the second nipple there as well;
- connect the bottom nipple with a clamp to a rubber hose, and the other end of the hose connect to the ramp;
- assemble the circuit with the help of wires, bringing their ends in parallel and connecting them to the power supply outputs, preferably through a button (normally open);
- fill in a container with cleaning liquid and close the lid tightly;
- with the help of a compressor to pump up the pressure of about 2 atmospheres;
The supply of the cleaner is regulated by the button (in intermittent mode) switch on and off the nozzles.
As practice and numerous experiments conducted by various car owners show, Dimexid can get rid of dirt even on very stale and riddled injectors. However, remember that Dimexid also has harmful properties. In particular, heated Dimexid dissolves not only soot, but also paint, and in general is considered a rather aggressive substance.
Before installing the fuel ramp back in its original place, it is advisable to replace the lower sealing rings. The fact is that over time they wear out and tear. It is also advisable to apply silicone grease to them beforehand.
As you can see, independent cleaning of injector injectors in garage conditions is quite acceptable and effective. However, it should be performed, firstly, provided that you are sure that you will do everything correctly, that is, you have experience in performing such repairs. Secondly, the degree of contamination of injectors is medium or low. If the injector is clogged very strongly, it makes sense to ask for help in the car service, where you will wash the injectors with a liquid or ultrasonic cleaning unit. And to prevent the injectors from getting dirty, you can use cleaning additives regularly.
About flushing the injectors with your own hands at home
Otherwise called injectors, they are mechanical devices that provide fuel injection into the engine. Injectors work on the principle of atomizers.
Fuel is injected as a homogeneous air mass into the engine where combustion takes place.
The combustion of the fuel mass produces a tarry deposit which settles in the engine and on the injector, gradually clogging the hole through which the fuel is fed. A clogged injector does not supply enough fuel, and the atomization process goes wrong – instead of a homogeneous air mass, liquid gasoline (diesel, gas) flows into the engine, which causes a deterioration in the performance of the vehicle as a whole.
There are three stages of contamination of injectors:
1. Minor contamination. Injector performance drops by 5-9%. Fuel consumption increases: a couple of liters per every 100 km, but the engine works well in general.
2. Medium contamination. Total injector performance decreases by 10-20%. Fuel consumption increases considerably, engine begins to run irregularly (backfire), exhaust also becomes irregular. Acceleration dynamics becomes worse, and a characteristic unpleasant smell appears from the exhaust pipe.
3. heavily contaminated. Injectors performance decreases by half. Engine is literally trying to “jump out” from under the hood. At idle one or more cylinders can stop functioning at all, and pops can be heard in the air filter housing when the gas pedal is pressed sharply. Symptoms of the second stage are also present, but in a more pronounced form.
Contamination of the injectors is inevitable, but regular cleaning of the parts (once every 30,000 km of mileage) will keep the best performance of the car. All
offer this service. It is possible to clean the injectors at home without being a qualified mechanic.
There are two main methods of injector cleaning:
– Liquid injector flushing; – Ultrasonic flushing.
Injector flushing with liquid
Washing is performed without removing the injectors from the engine. For this procedure a special device is used, which delivers flushing fluid to the injectors, it works almost like a fuel pump, but instead of fuel – gives the reagent.
Nozzle classic for further flushing In the process of flushing the fuel system is completely turned off to avoid the reagent in the gas tank.
If flushing liquid gets into a fuel tank it dissolves sediments on its walls, which during further fuel supply will clog the intake screen of a petrol pump and a fuel filter, which will require replacement of a petrol pump and ultrasonic cleaning of injectors.
The flushing fluid flakes off tar deposits not only from the injectors, but also from the valve and the walls of the combustion chamber. In half an hour of continuous feeding of the reagent through the injection system into the engine under pressure of 2-4 atmospheres all the deposits will be completely removed from the injectors and the injection system will look like a new one.
For your own hand flushing injectors with a liquid, you can assemble a simplified version of such a stand from improvised materials.
But, because it is very dangerous to get the cleaning mixture into the gas tank, it is recommended to clean it after removing the injectors from under the ramp.
Liquid cleaning of injectors at home
To do this you will need:
– 2 cans of injector cleaner; – A piece of hose, 10-15 cm long; – 2 clamps; – Knife – to cut the hose and work with wires; – 12 volt light bulb (optional, for clarity); – Button without fixation at 2 contacts; – Any charger for 12 volts (eg from an old cell phone), this is how much is required to open the injector; – 4 terminals on the wire to connect the contacts circuit; Tool kit for work on injector removal.
1. First of all, you need to disconnect the “minus” wire from the battery.
2.The most difficult task is to take out the injectors. First you need to get to them.To do this you need to remove the air filter harness, remove the TZ (throttle block) and the manifold, disconnect from the TZ gas pedal cable and gearbox, as well as breather hose and heated TZ, nozzle tips and all other hoses going to the manifold. Then the ramp will become visible.
3. To avoid fuel on the ramp to do the following: unscrew the return fuel supply near the power steering tank, mounted on the 2 bolts to the frame itself and one bolt on the side (it will have 2 washers), and the bolt in the threads below will plumb. It is advisable to put a cloth under it so that the residual gasoline droplets will leak out on it.
4.Twist the bolts that hold the ramp (3 pcs).
5. Having lifted the ramp, take out the nozzles. Then the car is left at rest, the circuit diagram for flushing the injectors is assembled:
6. A piece of hose is fastened with clamps on one side to the cap of the can with liquid, on the other side – to the inlet of one of the injectors. Injector output is lowered into plastic 1,5 or 2h-liter bottle (cleaning liquid will be discharged there).
7. The 12 volt charger wire insulation is cut, the red “plus” wire is connected to the button, the “minus” wire is put on one of the injector contacts.
8. In order not to burn the winding of the injector a 12 volt light bulb is plugged into the circuit as a load. With her terminals connected to the second contact injector, another wire from the light bulb will be powered from the button.
9. To check that the circuit is assembled correctly – plug the charger into the network, press the button. The light bulb should light up. Besides you should hear a slight click caused by opening of the nozzle.
10. After making sure that the circuit works correctly, we proceed to the cleaning of the injector. To do this, firstly we create pressure in the hose, pressing the can button and release some liquid in the hose, the nozzle is closed. It is worth to be careful, clamps on the ends of the hose should be screwed very tightly, so that the excess pressure will not affect the integrity of the connection.
11. Then the opening of the injector is simulated (by pressing the button in the electric circuit). The injector releases a cone-shaped stream of liquid into the bottle. The process is repeated many times until the injector is completely clean. The same is done with all other injectors.
12. it is desirable after the procedure to replace the o-rings on the ends of the injectors. Then the injectors are returned back to the ramp, in reverse order all connections are restored from points 4 to 1.
What fluid should I use to clean the injectors?
As mentioned above, the choice of injector cleaning reagent is of utmost importance. The most popular brands that make injector flushing fluids are:
– LIQUI MOLY – a universal fluid that is suitable for almost every car. Cleans very gently, but does not remove the soot from the engine valves. In the home it is a win-win option.
– Wynn’s is a very caustic injector cleaner, but does a great job of removing any soot and tar deposits. Suitable for cars made after 2002, but to avoid mishaps, it’s best to make sure the fluid is exactly right for your car.
– Carbon Clean is a mild but quality cleaner, the golden mean between the brands mentioned above.
– Laurel is almost similar to Wynn’s, but costs much more, that is why it is used less often.