The first oxygen sensor cheat
In cases when the neutralizer is removed or replaced with a flame arrestor, the ECU is beginning to malfunction, causing an emergency mode of operation. At such moments, experienced motorists use an oxygen lambda probe corrector, which allows avoiding errors and continuing to operate the vehicle.
Is an oxygen sensor emulator necessary?
- The ECU puts the engine into an emergency mode, when the engine operates according to the set fuel maps without taking into account the readings of the oxygen sensor.
- The “Check Engine” indicator lights up on the dashboard and an enriched fuel mixture enters the cylinders.
- The soot on spark plugs increases, the engine power decreases and the oil gets dirty.
- The increased fuel consumption leads to unnecessary financial expenses.
Almost all automobile manufacturers recommend replacing the defective neutralizer. But not every car owner will go for it, since the price of some units, for example, for VAZ reaches up to 60,000 rubles. This is also worth adding the cost of installing the device. Therefore, many car enthusiasts are interested in what is a catalyst diverter with their own hands and the scheme of its implementation.
The essence of the emulator operation is reduced to the change of real sensor readings, after which the ECU switches to the normal mode of operation. At the same time, the neutralizer itself can be cut out or replaced with a flame catalytic converter. The procedure for installing the imitator is not more complicated than increasing the clearance of the Renault Duster.
Ways to make with your own hands a lambda probe bump on the car’s catalyst
To change the readings of the oxygen sensor of the exhaust system, our motorists use several methods, the choice depends on the design features of the car and the possibilities of the motorist himself:
- Mechanical lambda probe spacer.
- Insertion under the sensor with a built-in minicatalyst.
- The use of electronic simulators.
How to make a mechanical corrector for the exhaust system?
To implement with your own hands a mechanical obfuscator on the catalyst, it is recommended to use blanks made of heat-resistant steel or bronze. This way the parts will not deform from high temperature. There are two designs, but in both variants you need a lathe or the help of an experienced specialist-turner.
The first option
Represents a sleeve with a length of 40-100 mm. On one side the regular sensor is screwed in, and on the other side the circulation of gases is limited by a hole of small diameter. The essence of the “device” operation is reduced to composition of the exhaust mixture averaged, because lambda probe is removed from the jet of gas and therefore catches less toxic substances. Due to this it is possible to cheat the ECU.
The standard drawing with the dimensions of the spacer can be changed in terms of dimensions, it depends on the model and brand of the car. The optimum diameter of the inlet hole remains unchanged at 1.5-2 mm. In some cases, the length of the bushing may not allow you to install it on the original place. As a result, you have to weld the mount elsewhere in the exhaust pipe.
- Exhaust gases enter the body of the bushing through a hole of small diameter.
- In the volume of the spacer, the excess CH and CO undergoes oxidation by oxygen, as a result of which the concentration of harmful substances is reduced.
- The processes occurring change the shape of a sinusoid and the electronic system considers that the catalytic converter is working in the normal mode.
Made with your own hands according to the above scheme, the catalyst cheat has the same drawback as the previous version. Here the regular probe will be raised by 32 mm, although it is less than 40-100 mm.
Features of installation of the spacer
The installation procedure is not difficult, and begins with putting the car on an overpass or an elevator. Further actions take place according to the following scheme:
- Disconnect the minus terminal of the battery.
- Unscrew the controller.
- Screw the sleeve on the probe.
- Screw the upgraded assembly back into place.
- Connect the battery.
After the first start the “Check Engine” signal should go off. Now the engine will work in normal mode.
Electronic catalyst bumpers with your own hands and emulator diagram
A real electronic emulator is a microprocessor device, consisting of a single-chip chip. The principle of its operation is based on the formation of the output signal, which corresponds in form to the information at the working neutralizer. Such a variant for independent performance is complicated, therefore it is worth considering a simpler way. To implement it, you need to prepare:
- Electric soldering iron.
- Solder and rosin.
- A knife and side cutters.
- A 200 kohm resistor with a capacity of 0.25 W.
- A non-polar capacitor with a capacity of 4.7Mcf.
The principle of the system functioning is averaging the readings of oxygen sensor which is installed after the neutralizer. The connection of the emulator components is simple and universal. All the components are connected directly to the onboard network wires of the vehicle. Before connecting the electronic bumper to the catalyst with your own hands, you should disconnect the battery terminals to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit. After the implementation of the project, the car shows good dynamics. However, the effect of over-enrichment of the combustive mixture may appear, which causes soot layer deposition in the exhaust manifold. In addition, on some models, the P0133 error appears, indicating a low lambda probe response rate.
What do aftermarket manufacturers offer?
On the shelves of auto stores, there are all kinds of parts for tuning the exhaust system. Production of mechanical imitators of the regular operation of the catalytic converter is made of bronze or chrome-plated steel. The price of such devices ranges from 400 to 800 rubles, and the standard installation at the service station will cost about 500 rubles.
Spacer with a minicatalyst is offered much more expensive than the elementary analogue, its cost is 1,500-4,000 rubles. Simple industrially produced electronic emulators are sold for 1,500-3,000 rubles. The range of prices for ECU firmware reprogramming is quite wide – from 1,000 to 30,000 rubles.
Good day to you all! In previous posts I wrote about wanting to install lambda probe cheat (mechanical) but the idea was not successful …- could not unscrew the sensors …
Finally decided to make electronic bump and put it, read a lot of information on the Internet, consulted with smart people and began to implement bump =)
here is the usual bad quality photo =)
installation photo no, did not have time to make from the scheme is all clear how to put it
I want to tell you a few nuances right away:
1.wires are black (signal), gray (ground) and 2 white (heating)
2. By experience and on the advice of “the experienced” found that all the schemes that are on the Internet – nonsense … installation is correct, but not the components …
Everywhere write that you need to put a non-polar capacitor – with this I agree, but the 1MOhm resistor doesn’t give the exact amplitude on the oscilloscope …, but in the case of Jacki-Chan, this option will work, but the sensor will not work exactly … But if you install a 150kOhm resistor, the amplitude will be almost similar to the amplitude when there is a catalyst …
I decided to try both variants… 1 fell away immediately because I drove around for a couple of days and didn’t notice any difference, and when I installed the second variant… it was a completely different experience! I’ve been driving with it for about a week now, while consumption has dropped, but not much … before active driving on the ECU showed more than 13 liters … which is not good, now 10.5 when active, 9 when the mode “grandfather” in general the rate fell and does not grow =)
Excerpted from the muzzle :
The excess air in the mixture is measured in a very original way – by determining the residual oxygen (O2) content in the exhaust gases. That’s why the lambda probe is in the exhaust manifold before the catalytic converter. The electrical signal from the sensor is read by the electronic fuel injection system control unit (ECU), which in turn optimizes the mixture by changing the amount of fuel supplied to the cylinders. On some modern car models there is another lambda probe. It is located at the outlet of the catalytic converter. This improves the precision of the mixture and controls the efficiency of the catalytic converter.
When we remove the catalytic converter the sensors show the same data and the mixture is getting richer…hence the consumption…
Modern cars are stuffed with different sensors. Everyone wants cars to last longer without repairs. Not everyone knows, that there is such electronic device – lambda-probe in construction of automobile. It refers to the injection system device. If the lambda probe breaks, the car’s engine will run in emergency mode.
- Oxygen sensor:
- Principle of operation.
- Second lambda probe.
- Types of cheats.
- Reprogramming the controller.
- Emulator of mechanical type.
- Electronic type cheat.
- Factory cheat modules.
- What happens after the cheat?
- Taking care of the catalyst.
The lambda probe is a residual oxygen sensor. It is installed in the engine exhaust manifold of vehicles, as well as in the chimney of modern heating boilers. It is denoted by a sign of the Greek alphabet λ-probe. In simple terms, a lambda probe is a sensor that reads how much unburned oxygen remains in the exhaust gases. In order to meet international environmental standards, car manufacturers are required to install such electronic devices. They reduce the amount of harmful substances.
Catalytic convectors are concerned with the combustion of carbon monoxides and nitrogen in the exhaust system before it all goes out. The lambda probe is one of the components of this device and is an essential part for the proper operation of the unit. Why and how do you make a lambda probe cheat?
Due to poor road surface quality and not always quality fuel, it often happens that the lambda probe breaks down along with the catalytic converter.
In this case, you need to replace the broken parts or install an oxygen sensor cheat.
Car Oxygen Sensor
The ECU, after receiving information from the oxygen sensor, determines what concentration of the fuel-air mixture to supply in the next cycles. In this way the computer adjusts the balance in the work of the engine.
Where is the oxygen sensor located? The answer: the lambda probe is located at the front of the catalytic converter on the intake pipe or on the manifold outlet pipe.
How it works
The working element of the oxygen sensor is a galvanic element, which consists of a solid ceramic electrolyte based on zirconium dioxide.
The galvanic cell has sponge plate electrodes. It is coated with doped sodium oxide.
One electrode of the device determines how much oxygen (O2) is in the exhaust and the second electrode determines how much oxygen is in the environment. When the oxygen sensor is heated to +300 degrees and due to the difference in oxygen content, an output voltage appears.
By the value of the voltage, the on-board computer determines what mixture to feed into the engine.
If the lambda sensor or controller malfunctions or fails, the following signs will appear:
- A critical error message will appear.
- Exhaust gases from the muffler will show a bright hue, there may be black smoke, there may be white smoke. The normal color of the exhaust is gray.
- The engine is not pulling uphill or in a straight line.
- Fuel consumption is higher than it was.
Second lambda probe.
Some makes and models of cars have two oxygen sensors installed. One sensor in this case is installed on the manifold or on the intake manifold, and the second is installed in the catalytic converter.
The cause of engine detonation may be a malfunction of the oxygen sensor.
The second lambda sensor measures how much air is in the exhaust gases at the catalytic converter outlet.
Some drivers install a cheat lambda sensor, off-the-shelf or homemade.
Varieties of cheat gauges made with your own hands
A cheat, aka emulator, is a device that does not determine the oxygen content of the gases. It serves only to deceive the electronic control unit of the car.
Changed controller firmware
You can reflash it yourself by downloading the software and the manual, how to do it. Or better to give it to a specialist. In electronic mode, the oxygen sensor is disabled through a certain program. In fact, it should work so that the ECU will receive only the most correct value from the catalyst and there will be no error on the dashboard.
Without the lambda probe, the engine runs in standard mode.
This way is much easier. You do not need to re-flash the program of the device. The essence is simple. You just need to insert a suitable bushing between the probe and the sensor mount (manifold pipe surface). The material of the bushing should be bronze or steel, resistant to high temperatures. The bushing is a hollow cylinder.
You will need a lathe and the ability to sharpen it yourself to make it. Therefore, it is better to give it to someone you know who works in a factory. This is usually how it is done.
Ready-made variants are sold. The price of a ready-made cheat sheet in the store is up to 1000 rubles for 2019. Find the location of the oxygen sensor, unscrew it, screw in a new one and that’s it.
There is another option to cheat the ECU – an electronic version, a moulage lambda probe. It always transmits a good value of oxygen content in the exhaust gases.At the heart of this cheat is a programmable processor. This way of cheating the on-board computer due to a broken oxygen sensor is used when the second lambda sensor is broken, that is, the one located in the catalyst.
The following materials and tools will be needed:
- A resistor with a resistance of 1 Ohm.
- Soldering iron, tin, rosin.
- A non-polar capacitor with a capacity of 1μF (micro Farad).
Usually, the second lambda probe cheat electronic type has 2 black wires, white and blue.
How to install the oxygen sensor cheat:
- The first thing is to disconnect the “mass” from the battery.
- Break the blue wire and install a resistor. The black wires will not be needed.
- To the white and blue wires connect the capacitor.
- You can install it anywhere. You can put it between the seats, you can put it under the hood, you can put it in the place for the connector.
Buy a lambda probe shifter
The easiest and most effective way in terms of installation and saving time is to buy a ready-made oxygen sensor shim.
In Moscow, you can buy a lambda probe cheat in 2019 for:
- 1500 rubles – this is for the emulator of the catalyst (electronic cheat sheet). Installation will cost about 500 rubles.
- Up to 1400 rubles – this is for the angular version of the bumpers.
- Up to 1,200 rubles is for the second lambda sensor bogie with a metal minicatalyst. It is suitable for cars with Euro 4 engines.
- 500 rubles – this is for the most common option, a mechanical bump manufactured by Fort Luft. It has no microcatalyst. It is installed on cars before 2001.
Such a way to cheat the car computer – a risky activity. The following may happen:
- Failure of all sensors without the right to restore.
- Many different errors may appear in the onboard computer.
- Wiring problems.
- The engine may run with malfunctions, because when the computer should be a signal – to give an enriched mixture or, conversely, poor mixture, but it will not do this, because the obummer shows that everything is normal.
How to take care of the catalytic converter
- Fill up with good gasoline;
- Do not drive in puddles at high speed, water quickly cools the catalytic converter, and this is not good for it at all;
- Do not add additives to the fuel;
- Do not add add additives to fuel; Pass timely car maintenance;
- Do not drive on tree stumps, so the sensor does not throw up.
The cost of new oxygen sensors is not high. Therefore, I recommend, do not install bumpers, and replace broken them with working ones.
If the CHECK is lit, if the cause is the oxygen sensor, then with the help of a second lambda probe cheat to fix the situation.
Electronic Catalyst Bump (with full disconnection of the lambda)
Comrades, decided to tell you about a massive problem with cars – lambda probe.
And so because of these oxygen sensors very often there are problems. All believe that because of them there may be severe problems with fuel consumption, many people do not know what it is
And so today we will solve 3 problems at once 1. A break in the heating circuit. 2. Low catalytic converter efficiency. 3. No signal on the oxygen sensor.
—————————————————————————————————— 1. Modern Oxygen sensor has usually 4 contacts. Two contacts of the same color are heated sensor (serves for accelerated heating of the lambda), in the original Toyota sensors, these are two black contacts! If it is after the catalyst, the computer compares the signal with the sensor before the catalyst and if the signal is almost the same or slightly lower, the car shows the error of poor catalyst efficiency. Roughly speaking, it is necessary to lower the signal at least twice in relation to the sensor before the catalyst. This is where we put a resistor in the gap of the two signal wires, and in order for the signal to be not as rough as from the first one, we put a capacitor and it will make the signal more undulating, it will be as close to similar to the real signal as possible.
If you have read the error and it indicates a break in the heater circuit, and you don’t really want to throw a lot of money at replacing the oxygen sensor, then follow my manual.
So let’s go under the car, with a multimeter and switch it to constant voltage mode at the same time. Start the car and measure the voltage on the contacts, which are the same color. If you can see the voltage from 12 to 14,5 then everything is OK, voltage is coming, then turn the car off and switch the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode in ohms.
There should be resistance on the ohmmeter from 3 to 18 ohms. Each car has a different resistance. My Sequoia has a perfect resistance of 16 ohms on a cold lambda, when heated the resistance increases and can go up to 50 ohms, thus reducing the current. Not the point… If you have no resistance at all, it means the circuit is really broken and you should either change the lambda or save some money.
Saving money is very simple. Take these two identical black wires (or whatever you have) and connect them to each other through a resistor. That’s it, the heater is ready. See the diagram.
And now you and I need to calculate the resistance. After experimenting, I found out that the computer measures the current to know if the lambda is working or not. I connected the cable to the computer and went into the section heated lambda. There I saw the minimum current value, which is necessary for the computer to see that the heater works, it is 0.255 amps.
Looking at the current consumption of warmed up lambda, I saw that they eat 0.5 amps (when cold 0.9a) that is, we know that the voltage we have 13.5 volts. the minimum current should be 0.255A calculates a resistor that will consume a minimum current.
We will not go to extremes… let’s say 0.3 amps instead of 0.255 amps and let’s say not 13.5 volts but 12 volts.
12/0.3 = 40 ohm resistor. Let’s calculate the power of the resistor so it doesn’t burn out. Let’s take the maximum voltage that our alternator can supply. 14,5 volt.
Choose a resistor with a power reserve of 6 watts or more. we can choose 10.
That’s it… if you can’t find such a resistor, you can buy several and twist them in parallel. I bought three 100ohm and 5watt resistors and ended up with 33ohm and 15watts.
This is what one resistor looks like:
This way, let’s see how much current the computer should see: 13.5 volts/33.3 ohms = 0.405A, and look at what our car brains show and see that everything is ok.
Here is a diagram of what you need to do to fight only a break in the heater circuit:
2. now we start to fight only the low efficiency of the catalyst! We cut signal wire and solder 820 kiloohm resistor there (it is blue wire in original sensors). And close to the chip between cable and mass wire we solder non-polar 2uF capacitor. All this stuff connect to the machine and everything should work fine.
Well, now if we have no signal from the sensor, it means it is completely dead! Either replacement will help, or a cheat circuit, which works fine for several years. It has one flaw, but I’m not fixing it, because it all works anyway! Since the sensor is dead, where do we get the signal? And we’ll take it from the first sensor (which is before the catalyst), underestimate the signal as described in the second paragraph, and send this signal to the computer. To do this: 1. Cut off two contacts from the second lambda (signal), 2. Connect two wires to the first lambda to signal and ground, solder resistance to these wires and put a capacitor between them and wires and connect them to the connector of the second lambda, which lead to the computer. Here is the diagram:
And now if you do all these points together, you will get such a scheme, which completely eliminates the second lambda, and it can be safely thrown out Here is a detailed diagram:
Ask me if there is anything you don’t understand! Here is the result of the work done: