How to treat your car with mauve

Car treatment with movil: instructions with video

This article gives complete information without unnecessary terms about the treatment of automobiles with the soap solution, which is a very important factor in car body care in general, and for its individual parts, with a detailed and sequential description of all mandatory actions.

Table of contents:

To begin with, let’s understand what is the movil for cars. It is a substance that prevents metal damage due to the fact that it does not allow metal parts of the car to come into contact with air, as well as moisture in various forms. In simple terms, it can be called a means of preserving the body.

The name of this composition comes from the cities of Moscow and Vilnius, because they were research institutes that were developing rust-preventive protection.

Before you start processing, you’ll want to know what components consist of mauve to be sure that you can not damage other parts of the car by negligent use. So, the detergent grease can consist of:

  • linseed oil,
  • machine oil,
  • corrosion inhibitors,
  • kerosene (some formulations use white spirit solvent).

How to treat a car with mauve

Kerosene or solvent is added to make the total mixture more fluid for subsequent spraying. If the composition includes the first component, the mauve will dry faster and air out, but over time the coating may crack, unlike the composition on the solvent. If you use white spirit, the layer retains plasticity longer, but the smell of the treatment will take longer to evaporate.

How to use the mauve

This substance can be applied both to bare metal and to painted or overcoated surfaces. However, a synthetic based surface must not be coated. After application, the product does not require any additional work in the form of drying, and also does not adversely affect the treated part.

If you have decided to promovilate your favorite in the cold season, it is not the best option, because the working temperature should not be below ten degrees of heat. It is also worth noting that the temperature should not be above forty degrees. So the conclusion is that you need to wash in the spring or fall.

The product should not come into contact with rubber or plastic parts to avoid damaging them.

It is important to clean or rinse the surface well before applying the undercoat to avoid leaving any rust or dirt in the area. Be sure to shake the liquid thoroughly before applying it, no matter how you apply it. Periodically during coating, you must also remember to shake the can, because the product tends to separate. Without shaking the mauve, the quality of the film coating will be significantly reduced, or the atomizer may simply get clogged.

How to use the bait

Shake the mauve before use

On exposed surfaces, the contents are sprayed in an even coating. The approximate distance when applying is twenty-five centimeters using a conventional sprayer. In hard-to-reach places it is introduced with special extension tubes with a tip.

If you have used the can of mauve and for any reason you had to interrupt the process or finish it, you need to turn it upside down and make a colorless spray by pressing the trigger. If you do not do this, your mauve will dry out in the valve and you will not be able to use it.

When using a pressurized canister, be sure to follow the safety rules, namely: do not use it at temperatures above forty-five degrees and directly in front of sunlight. The substance is explosive! It is required to work with gloves, goggles, a respirator (you can use four folded gauze) and in a well-ventilated box.

What is the best type of mauve

There are three types of mauve for cars:

Aerosol – the most popular and practical, it is also the most convenient to apply anti-corrosion agent. The price of a can of 520 ml is about 150 – 290 rubles. then more expensive than other types, but it is worth it.

Which detergent is better?

Movil in the form of an aerosol

Liquid mauve for the same money you can buy about four liters, but it is applied with a special gun, which is supplied with air, creating pressure with a compressor. If you do not have one, this option is not suitable. In an extreme case, it can be applied with a brush, a sponge or simply by pouring, but you should be prepared that it will all look extremely inappropriate.

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Which detergent is better?

Liquid mauve with a special gun for applying anti-corrosion

The paste is usually packed in iron cans, which weight is about 860 grams. Their price also ranges around two hundred rubles. On the outside is applied with a brush. If the treatment takes place inside, then for convenience, it must be diluted with kerosene or solvent.

Which detergent is better?

Moville in the form of a paste

If you do repairs at home without proper equipment, then the best option for you is an aerosol.

Once you have chosen the right option for yourself, you need to carefully prepare the surface of the car or a separate part of it, which will be covered with the movil.

Preparation of the car

Pre-preparation of the car is to wash the entire body from the dirt. It is desirable to wash the car under high water pressure, since it is necessary to wash all the crinkles of the body parts. However, if there is no such a possibility, then with the help of various shampoos and special surface cleaners you can do just as well. Remember that the areas that are left dirty will not be able to be well blotted out. Subsequently, the likelihood of rusting increases there, which will be the result of undermining the paint and corrosion.

How to treat a car with mauve

Preparing the vehicle before the rustproofing treatment

Under the high humidity, and also because of the frequent damage by stones from under the wheels, bottom and sills suffer most of all. The most painful places after the underbody are the door pockets and arches.

Let’s consider in detail how to treat the body parts that are often exposed to corrosion, separately.

Underbody treatment with movil

The underside of the car is the platform for assembling the rest of the body, so it must be strong enough. The metal bottom undergoes an anti-corrosion treatment at the factory, but natural or physical factors have a detrimental effect on the protection of the metal, and, over time, the treatment has to be repeated.

So, let’s break down the sequence of actions. After you have pre-washed the car, put it on the observation pit or overpass. This is done for your convenience in performing bottom treatment actions. The underside is often poorly washed in a standard car wash, so you will likely have to repeat the procedure separately for it. Afterwards, proceed to scrape the metal to a shiny finish. This should only be done in areas that have rust showing through, blistering, or a rotten hole altogether.

In the latter case, you can not do without welding. You can prepare the place yourself, to do this you first need to cut off all the rottenness with a grinder to the live metal, then grind the place with a drill, a grinder with a specially screwed stripping wheel. You can also use sandpaper. After welding work, you should reprime the place, having previously degreased it.

Underbody cavity waxing

Complete priming the car before the rustproofing treatment

If you have only rust, then here it is enough to grind it with sandpaper and the same overprime.

After these procedures, you need to free the underbody from unnecessary items to cover the surface properly. You will be in the way of the exhaust pipe and, on some car models, the fuel tank. If you have a HBO installed and it interferes with access to the underbody, then of course it will also have to be removed. When removing one or the other fuel tank, don’t forget to shut off the fuel tap to the system. This is especially true for gas equipment – do not forget to proceed with extreme caution.

Underbody cavity waxing

Underbody treatment with mauve

Once you have finished, rinse the underbody of the car well again. After waiting a couple of hours for it to dry, you can start applying anti-corrosion detergent. Apply it slowly and evenly. The product dries for 1-2 hours after the application. Then you need to assemble everything in the reverse order, and that is the end of the job.

For more details on the bottom treatment with the bogie, please see the video:

Handling Sills with Oleum Armor

Thresholds treatment is required as to prevent corrosion of a new car, as well as for a second-hand car when replacing this element of the body.

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Sills treatment with detergents

Car thresholds treatment with movinil

Handling sills with movinil is a rather labor-intensive job, you cannot do without partial disassembly of the interior. In particular, it is difficult to remove plastic parts on foreign cars, with VAZ and ZAZ is much easier.

So, proceed to remove all the pads sills: they are usually either on the latches, or clips. It is important to do everything slowly and accurately – if you break off latches, then when you move the car plastic will rattle, and the comfort of the cabin will decrease.

After removing all the plastic, you should unscrew the soundproofing from the sills and find special holes for treatment with grease. You can also use an alternative method – drilling holes on the outside of the thresholds. So do lazy people so as not to perform all the steps of disassembly (or if for some reason there are no special holes), but it is undesirable.

Sills treatment with detergents

Handling Sills with Oleum Armor

For the treatment of the sills is ideal only mauve in a spray can, put it on the adapter in the form of a trunk with a tip and put the nozzle in the hole sills. Clicking on the sprayer, fill the walls of the sills liquid: on one sill, it is desirable to use up a third of the spray can, and even half. If you were lazy and used the second option of treatment with drilling, after treatment holes must necessarily close something. Often rubber inserts are used for this purpose, which you can buy in construction or auto stores.

Sills treatment with detergents

Hole inserts

For more information about the treatment of thresholds with movinil, see the video:

Door treatment with movinil

Doors tend to rot at the bottom. If you run them, and you have already corroded, then you need to immediately clean the place from the outside, and then primer and paint it. Only after that you can start treating with movil.

To cover the holes in the doors instead of welding work often use putty, but it is poor quality and short-lived, so we still advise to weld all the holes. Not everyone can do this job, so it is better for an inexperienced driver to drive the car to a specialist.

When the car is ready, proceed to the removal of the door cards. To do this, remove the window handles, unscrew all the fixing screws or bolts, take out the latches and remove the card. Be careful when removing it – there may be wires in the card, and they will also need to be disconnected when you remove the card. Memorize or write down the correct connection so you don’t short out a certain circuit in the future. The equipment on the cars varies, so you may not have one or the other item.

Oleum wax sealing of doors

Disassembling the Door Before Moisturizing

Having freed access to the inside of the doors, if possible, clean it and wait until the metal surface dries. Shake the movil and proceed to cover the layer of liquid. Return the door trim in reverse order.

Oleum wax sealing of doors

Door treatment with movinil

More info about the treatment in the video:

Handling of the arches with the underbody wax

For the treatment of arches grease must first remove the fenders – they are usually screwed on the screws under the Phillips screwdriver. There are cases when they are rusted and hard to unscrew, then you can fill them with raskoskoy and wait a few minutes. After unscrewing and pulling out the fenders, you need to thoroughly clean and wash the arches. If you have no damage, then immediately proceed to the application of the anticorrosion agent.

Spraying of side sills with wax

Treatment of wheel arches with movil

Put the armpit in place and that’s the end of the job. To ensure that the screws will unscrew easily next time, you should treat the cut with an oiling agent.

For more information on treatment of automobile arches with a movil, see the video:

Perform the treatment of the car with movil can anyone at home and without any special skills to work with the technique. If, however, you run the body to the appearance of holes, then it is recommended that the intervention of professionals.

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MOVIL is by far the most affordable and high-quality anticorrosive agent for protecting your car from corrosion. In the use of this means the main thing is to observe all the safety rules specified on the packaging or can.

And about the “MOVIL”. A lot of letters.

While new sawdust is coming to me from Moscow suburbs, I’ve finished my “reloading” with all sorts of strongly smelling compounds.

About some black stuff I already said…

Honestly, it’s “dust in the eyes” and probably blackness will fall in places, but . As I said before, the bottom was treated well, even before me. All I had to do was to peel off the excess rust, treat with germetones and anti-gravlons, and finally blacken everything to complete the picture so to say….

… But it is not interesting. But it would be desirable to dwell a little on the topic of internal cavity treatment. Many people ignore them (inner cavities) for some reason. An uninitiated person will not understand if he was daubbed inside or not. And that is what different charlatans use – they smear some kind of “movil” on outer planes and rub into the population – “Vidish, how thick is the smear? It means it’s in the right place…”.

I also sometimes sin with it, but only when the client wants to. Some people don’t want to pay for something they can’t see. But I don’t usually allow for the anti-corrosion in the exterior. It should be on the inside. Outside of it does NOTHING good!

And the population does not know to at least put a finger in the hole and feel. And eight times out of a hundred, it’s as dry as the desert. Nope, but it was done quickly. And, most importantly, inexpensive.

I’ll go into more detail about Movile. What follows will be a bit another’s text, embossed long ago on some forum and I am a bit revised. There are no links. You can skip the italics.

What is Moville?

“Once upon a time, back in the USSR, the specialists of the Defense Ministry of Sqva and Ville Nuss developed the preparation Mauville, as an inexpensive alternative to foreign preparations of the same purpose and made them available to everyone who wished to use them. At the beginning of the preparation Movil-1 TU 6-15-1521-86 contained a significant amount of imported ingredients (firm Dinitrol – brand Mercasol). By the way, it is interesting that the ubiquitous Google, on request for this drug and specifications, gives just very few links. Many people no longer remember how to look like the same one Movil-1, much less know how it smells. I can’t tell you the smell, but photos, please.

After the first Movil, Movil-2 was released. A novelty. With the same specifications, the same weight – 800gr. in a standard glass bottle for the soap. It contained domestically produced components, and was made at the Uzhgorod chemical reagents plant. It had the same high quality as the first one but for a lower price. Shelf life was positioned by the manufacturer at 24 months. Although I will say frankly, I still have it in its original sealed bottle and it has not lost its properties after being stored in an unheated garage. I must say at once – I conducted hard tests with various mauves – I welded to the garage gate outside a sheet of iron and without painting it, with a brush applied different mauves in vertical strips and checked how long such protection was sufficient. Once the metal began to be covered with traces of corrosion, it washed off with gasoline, removed the rust and put on another mauve. At the same time the time of “durability” of the mauve was recorded. So the original mauve is the best. Of course, nowadays it is difficult to find a manufacturer that thinks not only about the profit, but also the quality of the product. Therefore, by “gut feeling” I searched and found the best of what was on sale. Without claiming to be the truth in the last instance, I will share my experience. I apologize in advance to the manufacturers, who make a bad product of this brand. Nothing personal, just facts. a couple of pictures – this is Mauville-2 TU 6-15-1521-86.

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So, let me continue. The moviles that are now offered by different manufacturers differ not so much in price as in quality. But the biggest disappointment hit me in a can (metal, as from under the paint) of a well-known manufacturer (see photo).

This manufacturer produces a lot of different products for cars, including well-known to all tineysik-two-component filler. However, the mauve in a can (economic – more than 2 kg.) was dribble-like consistency at normal temperature (about 20gr) and did not want to form any surface film after a day or a month, and the film-forming substances (hereinafter – the POV) – an obligatory component of the soap. By the way, both the first and the second mauve, and tektil – perfectly forms a film, i.e. after a day or two, touching the coating, you feel the softness of the layer, but your hands are not dirty. This is a very important quality of Tektil. I consider it the most important. Alas, this mauve was also the worst on my “testing ground”. Its protection was enough only for a couple of weeks. The sun and rain did their job and it “parted”. I don’t recommend it to anyone. The next sample. They make it in St. Petersburg, ZAO Himproduct. It has a medium price range, modest plastic bottle… I got mauve-zinc, but this, IMHO, is not important, because although the zinc is more electronegative than the iron and, in theory, should protect it, it is necessary to imagine clearly that the zinc must have a very good electrical contact with iron. The zinc must have a very good electrical contact with the iron, otherwise there will be no “kina”, and the zinc dispersion, which is in the bottle is, figuratively speaking, conductive “raisins” in the layer of dielectric “cake” and they are of little use. I’m not talking about the movil-bronze – it’s really a shame, because the bronze has no protective effect. But movil that I am going to tell you about has a great quality – to form a superficial film, which after drying does not stain your hands, ie you can safely handle the ends of doors and trunks without fear of getting dirty all the time afterwards. By the way, its color is light brown, so it is not very noticeable on the treated areas (if the car is not white, of course). This is also important. So, here it is – St. Petersburg Moovil-Zinc TU 2384-018-46951733-00.

A little added from myself. I tried this mauve, he tastes bad. And in six months it can scrape off the surface, which by this time has corroded. (Tin Man)

The next sample is from Rostov-on-Don. Liter blister costs 60-70 rubles (a classic), with zinc – a dozen more expensive. What can I say… bad mauve… bad. Not only are there no POV, so another plague, no normal homogeneity of the product. I tried cold and heated up to 50-60gr in a water bath, no use. On the photo you can see dark spots on the background of the empty bottle. It looks like some kind of filler, like soot flakes.

The dispersant is large and settles at the bottom of the wet cup, even though I shake it from side to side, so that the wet cup is empty when I unscrew it and there at the bottom is the same black deposit and dispersant. The link to the manufacturer’s website, I do not give, I think who needs it, in the search engine will find. My advice is to refrain from buying such a product.

The next sample. The price, however, is slightly higher than average, but this, IMHO, is due to the name of the product – the brand. It is made in Nizhny Novgorod, at JSC “Orgsintez”. There are, however, a few nuances. First of all, it comes in different flavors. I bought it twice and it was very different. The first was brownish and more liquid, and the second was almost black and less fluid at room temperature. I wasn’t lazy and called the manufacturer’s hotline. The polite girl on the other end of the line advised me that there was no cause for concern, they say that the product under their brand is made by two plants in different cities at different plants, the sources are slightly different, but that’s all normal. I was somewhat relaxed, but it still seemed strange that this information is not listed on the label. The container of this mauve is plastic – a volume of 0,5l. – It looks like a canister. The second nuance is that you have to use it according to its intended use until the expiration date, and that is just 12 months. After that the product stratifies and the sediment becomes insoluble, this product cannot be used as intended. However, the POV is present and the protective properties are also very decent. It is just that the first sample is more suitable for an atomizer and the second for a brush.

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And just recently I found a curious specimen, which is pure denim. It is molded in the suburbs, discreet bottle. The most curious thing is that after standing in the cold for about a month, the product is a bit stratified, on top a liquid fraction – judging by the smell – something like gasoline, below – something like fluff. lard. They must have just stirred it up and that’s it. POV also no – in general, complete nonsense. So – mauvin TU 2384-148-04001396-2006

Auto-conditioners in spray cans stand out a bit, but also in this context. I shall tell directly that my experience with such mauves is modest – one instance with the iron knight on the packing – see a photo. What can be said…well, basically, there are places where it is convenient to treat with such movil – for example, on a classic and an ordinary Niva – the upper shoulder shoulder, behind which, sometimes, cling to the upper trunk. In truth it is necessary to put a small hose on pusher, as on a photo, to make it more convenient. I advise nobody to treat thresholds and side members with it – there is not much pressure in it, so no efficient treatment is possible. In addition, the effective inscription on the front – 650ml. – In addition, the ostentatious label on the front – 650 ml – is pure bait, because the actual net weight (read – movinil) is only 330gr. Unnecessary. In addition to all of the above, my copy also had no POV, so on the second-third (tenth or twentieth) day I got my hands dirty just like on the first day. They make it, as well as the previous sample, in the Moscow region, Noginsk. So – mauville TU 2384-016-17059428-04

BUT. Treatment, even unimportant movil, it is still better than not treated at all the car. And blah, blah, blah…”

Farther down the text went some old-fashioned methods of treatment, like mixing ten parts of sea salt and twenty parts of freshwater shells, I wiped them.

I’ll add something of my own. Yes, a fish for a fish without a fish. But still, “MOVIL”, no matter how you spin it, and no matter how good it was at the time, it’s a bygone era. There are better products, there are plenty of them. Dinitrol certainly good, but, as you know, I love preparations company “NOVOL” and do not intend to leave them yet. Here, a good product for the treatment of the inside of the GRAVIT_640.

I have been using it for a long time. The price is good. The viscosity is balanced, it sticks to the walls, doesn’t leak much. And it holds its properties for quite a long time. This jar was open (about two grams left at the bottom) for about six months. It hasn’t changed color, it hasn’t dried out, and even the smell has not weathered.

And the fragrance from it is decent, it smells like lanolin hand cream. Because it is a wax-lanolin product. And what is more important. It is absolutely harmless to cured paintwork, while I have had a couple of problems with the “mauvil” when it came to repainting.

But. Gravit 640 is good, only we do not have it in town.

So I tried this product today.


It is stinky – I did not even know what it smells. The color is like a mauve. Viscosity – too liquid for me. On the one hand – it will flow out everywhere, on the other hand – will it run out at all? With that question stuck my eye in the hole where I poured the grease.

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