Installing ESP 9.0, or what the fuck took me so long…
I was going to write about ESP for a while, but I just couldn’t get around to it. Very tempted to write, as some of the authors: “Installed ESP. I won’t explain in detail – there is a lot of information on the drive. “There really are a lot of detailed posts about installation of ESP on the drive and I will definitely give references to them at the end of the post. But I won’t be like the authors of laconic posts, consisting of only two sentences above, and will write about what I consider important for me. I will probably end up with “a lot of books” anyway.
First of all thanks to authors 4u3ou , ZZZhuk , firegrafik , Marat-Renatovich , RoFIREmaN , nikbyte , GrOzNy21 , lda47 for their entries in the blog
WARNING: This post will be about Polo RESTAIEL, where originally the ABS unit version 9.0 is installed. If you have a Pre-Restyle and the ABS block version 8.2, you will need to buy a 9.0 connector, and a number of plugs for it. How to convert from 8.2 to 9.0 is perfectly described in the Blog posts linked to at the end.
For the brake system: 1. 6R0907379BN – ABS/ESP unit 9.0 2. 6R1614235C – ESP unit bracket 3. 6RU614739C – brake tube 4. 6RU614740C – brake tube 5. N02300311 – hex nut (3 pcs. just in case, replace rusty with new)
Electrics: 6. 6R0959654 – steering angle sensor paddle ring 7. 6R0927117A – ESP on/off button 8. 4D0971636 – ESP button connector (no additional pins needed, the wires are just pressed into the connector itself) 9. N90764701 – pins for the steering wheel ring (5 pcs) 10. A0185458626 – pins to the ESP unit 11. 357972740E – grommet in the ESP unit connector 12. 3C0972841 – dummy plug for ESP unit (took it just in case, it was no use)
Additionally (for indirect control of tire pressure): Warning. Not all units support display for RKA
13. 5J09271279B9 – SET button 14. 1J0972722 – SET button connector 15. N90684405 – SET button connector pin (4 pieces) 16. A0185458626 – pin to ESP unit connector 17. 357972740E – sealing rubber to the ESP unit connector
18. Several meters of different colored PGVA or PVAM 0.35/0.5 sq. mm wires
If someone wants to use the original VAG wire for wiring, the article numbers of the original wires: 000979980A – 0.35 kV.mm wire – 10 meters 000979981A – 0.5 kV.mm wire – 10 meters
On item 9 (pin for the thruster ring): You can use repair wires 000979009E (wire crimped with pins N90764701 on both sides) in quantity of 3 pieces.
For items 10 and 16 (pin to ESP unit connector): You can use repair wire 000979025E (wire crimped with pins A0185458626 on both sides), or repair wire 000979025EC (wire crimped with pins A0185458626 with rubber seals). In the latter case, the rubber seals 357972740E (items 11 and 17) will not be needed.
The task is to connect power and CAN bus to the steering angle sensor, power and light to the ESP button (and optionally to the SET button), and lead the wire from the ESP button (and optionally the wire from the SET button) to the ABS/ESP block by the following diagram (I made it simple on purpose, instead of publishing here 4 parts of Elsa circuits):
Generally, 4 wires from steering angle sensor connect to instrument cluster (cable with connector T32) and the fifth goes to SB9 fuse (picture below is not mine, thanks to the author for it)
In the post about cruise control, I wrote that I had an additional wire through the snail to heat the steering wheel, so just replace the snail with a snail with an angle sensor did not suit me. Also, due to some laziness was very bored to make an additional loop or wire for the steering wheel heater in the cochlea with an angle sensor. The solution was simple – remove the steering angle sensor from the new snail and put it on mine. By gently unscrewing a few latches the sensor can be easily removed and repositioned. The 6R0959653 snail rotor and housing has all the necessary tabs/slots for the angle sensor, so the sensor was installed without problems. Maybe this info will be helpful for those who have installed the heated steering wheel and are planning to install ESP.
Why I decided to put the SET button of indirect pressure control – I don’t know why, because I have a direct tire pressure control, so what the heck, there will be one more button. The only thing that bothered me was that the LED in the button was green. It was decided to replace it with a red one. The button can be easily disassembled – the upper part is fixed with four clips. Green LED was ruthlessly taken out (resistor stays) and replaced with red one (any 12 volt LED of suitable size can be used).
In general the ESP OFF button is where it should be, and the SET button is in the glove compartment.
I can’t give you the length of the wires, because I did everything on site. I ran the wires to the ESP box through the clutch pedal plug. You can run the wires also next to the main harness on the left side, or through the rubber pussy next to the air intake on the right – whatever you like. As for the electrical details, they’re perfectly spelled out in the BJ’s notes I cited at the end of the post. I certainly can’t write better than in those notes. I’ll just focus a bit on the ABS unit connector. It’s easy enough to disassemble – the whole process is in the picture.
In order to be able to insert the existing ABS unit connector into the ABS/ESP unit connector, you need to cut the connector guides on the unit itself (easy enough to do with a box cutter).
WARNING: Before disconnecting the connector from the ABS unit, you MUST remove the negative terminal from the battery!
Next, so that you can put pins 22 (and optionally 12) into the existing connector, you need to carefully drill plastic partitions in the holes for these pins. You have to do it very carefully and not too much, otherwise pins won’t hold in the plug – in this case you will have to buy new 1K0973038 and a lot of plugs 3C0972841 . Besides the process of taking pins out of the old socket is a fun for the brave ones, especially if you don’t have proper extractors at hand. Anyway we need a 3-3,5 mm drill bit to drill the thin plastic partition. The drill should not go deeper than 18mm (based on my shattered caliper). Before doing this, it is worth moving the purple retainer that additionally holds the pins in the connector, so as not to accidentally drill through it as well. It is best to clamp the drill bit into a separate small chuck (if available) and rotate it slowly by hand. As soon as the drill goes through the baffle, you will immediately feel it. You can immediately try how (and if at all) the pin fits into the connector.
Since doing everything (both the electrics and the block and tube replacement) in one day is quite stressful, all the electrical work can be done in advance (which I did more than six months ago). The bottom of the ABS unit connector is blank, so you can safely put pins 12 and 22 in the connector beforehand, they will not contact with anything yet.
Once the electrical work is completed, the ABS/ESP unit can be pre-coded. You also need to prescribe the steering angle sensor in the system. With the sensor, everything is not simple, but very simple – go to block 19, mark block 04 and save it.
The ABS/ESP block coding can be obtained from the ESPCalculator program. Or in the program VCDS, Vasya or AVTOAdapter you can use the files for the labels block 6R0907379BN/6R0907379AS, which at one time kindly provided the RoFIREmaN . And here I got a serious hitch. The unit did not want to accept the encoding. Thanks a lot to Paul 4u3ou for his help – as it turned out, first of all, in ESPCAlculator I inattentively chose the wrong block (AS instead of BN), and secondly it’s better to try encoding the block without turning on the aids first. As a result, the block accepted the encoding:
XX – bytes, depending on VIN – each has its own – they are calculated perfectly ESPCalculator or Vasya (using the file labels, which I mentioned above) Total in the coding – Polo sedan left-hand drive, CFNA engine (suitable for CWVA), automatic transmission, block ABS / ESP 379BN, disc brakes 288/232, Button ESP OFF disables only ASR, XDS and HHC included
Unfortunately the 379BN unit does not accept the coding where the ESP OFF button disables ASR and ESC. RKA (indirect tire pressure control), I have decided not to activate yet – no time for nonsense – especially since there is a direct pressure control. I’ll play with it later, closer to the heat. To activate RKA would need this coding:
Also, to support RKA in block 17 (dash) in byte 2 bit 0 must be set to one.
I coded the block “on the fly”, and then disconnected it (of course by removing the minus terminal from the battery) and connected the old block ABS (had to bother with resetting errors).
Plan to play with the adaptation of the hydraulic assistant and see how the braking changes.
Work on the braking system consists of unscrewing all the brake pipes from the ABS unit, replacing the ABS unit itself with ABS/ESP along with the bracket and replacing the two tubes going from the GTZ to the ABS unit with thicker ones. After all these actions, you need to pump the braking system. Since doing it all myself was very scary for me (brakes after all!), I decided to go to an official. I could turn to those drivers, which I fully trust in this matter, but, unfortunately, I had to go quite far away – St. Petersburg, Nizhny Novgorod, Vladimir, Kazan – a bit far So, two Russian dealer refused me without any explanation of the reasons, and the third dealer, understanding exactly what I want (I have explained everything in details and even took a couple of pictures from ETKA), without unnecessary questions agreed to perform all works. In the afternoon the car was driven up on an elevator. The machinist was fast and accurate, and he answered all the questions in a friendly manner. As a result we replaced the block and pipes and pumped the whole brake system (without ODIS at first). Found “tears” of brake fluid in one of the connections to the ABS/ESP, tightened, rechecked, everything was OK. Then came the master diagnostician, hooked up ODIS, made some basic settings/calibrations, and then pumped the braking system with ODIS. Upon completion the brake pedal seemed a little loose, pumped. The master diagnostician drove around, I drove around, braked, and everything was fine. All works on the braking system of the service station together with the cost of the brake fluid cost me 13,000 rubles with a penny. The more so that I was given a warranty for the work performed – purchase order, “inventory-protocol, hand-over-report, fingerprints” If someone wants to banter about – “in garages cheaper,” no problem, do it in the garage And those OD who refused me, I want to say – Too bad! And I wanted to spend my money! In general, all the work took a few hours and in the evening I left with a fully installed and working system.
I had the feeling that I drove a different car! Rides like a rail, goes into turns just like a hurray! I have especially tried with a little bit higher speed to roll into 2 turns by 180 degrees (exit from Kostomarovsky Bridge on Kostomarovskaya embankment and exit from Sadovoe to Bernikovskaya embankment) – perfect! The car ride is completely different, the feeling that I was about to fall asleep has disappeared. And yesterday, when Moscow was covered with snow, the system was working very often and if before in that situation the car would start to “drag” on a layer of snow on the road, with the ESP system the car was going quite confidently (the warning light was on quite often). Antibox was triggered several times. HHC worked perfectly, when starting uphill, if you just release the brake pedal, the car does not roll back even a millimeter! All in all I am very happy!
If someone asks me if I should put it in or not, the answer is definitely yes! +100 to comfort!
Modification of VW POLO Sedan ESP system (report)
Good day to all! Most of our Russian Polo do not have ESP in the package (except for Premium package)! And my Polo also did not have it until now. This system is very useful. What is its essence, you can read here!
Finally I finished this project. For help in its implementation I want to thank Dima drsedoy and Ruslan russo212.
To implement it, we need: 1. 6R0 907 379 AS – ABS/ESP unit 2. 6R1 614 235 C – ABS/ESP unit bracket 3. 6Q0 959 654 D – Steering angle sensor steering wheel control ring 4. 6R0 927 117 A – ESP on/off button 5. 4D0 971 636 – Button mating part 6. 000 979 025 E – wire for connection to ABS/ESP unit 7. 50282021 – wire seal 8. 6RU 614 739 C – Brake system tube from the brake control unit to the ABS/ESP unit 9. 6RU 614 740 A – Brake system tube from the brake valve to ABS/ESP unit 10. N 907 647 01 – crimp contact for wires 11. B 000 750 M3 – brake fluid 2 liters
BEFORE YOU START, CONNECT YOUR DIAGNOSTIC TOOL AND SAVE THE CURRENT CODING OF THE ABS UNIT! Now lets proceed to integration process … Let’s start with preparation of wiring: – remove steering wheel – remove dashboard – remove steering column trim – remove steering wheel control switches – unbolt control switch connector and tap wires there
2nd pin – orange 3rd pin – brown 4th pin purple/gray 5th pin white red 6th pin green
Wires from pins 2,3,4 and 5 should be routed to the dash harness
In my harness of course there are more wires, because I wrapped the harness for the other extras. Now we unwind the dash harness and plug it in: wire from pin 2 to orange/brown wire wire from pin 3 to orange/black wire from pin 4 to brown wire from pin 5 to red/yellow wire. BECAUSE IN THE RESTYLING THEY PUT THE DASH ON THE EXTENDET-CAN
The wire from pin 6 must be pulled to the fuse box (9th pre). At the same time I ran another wire to this fuse, which will need to take to the ESP button.
In order to make a good connection to the wire from the 9th fuse (black/blue), I took the contact out of the fuse block. – Remove the pink contact holder (marked with an arrow in the photo) – insert the breaker – take out the contact – stripe – solder – and all this good in shrink-wrap – insert the contact back
Now moving on to installing the ESP button itself. Its pinout: pin 3 connects to 3 pin of the heated button. Pin 4 wire from the heated button should be pulled into the engine compartment. Pin 5 connects wire which we took from pin 9 of the PT6 to pin 6 of the heated button.
You can see how I hooked the harness into the engine box here
Now reassemble everything in the cabin in reverse order and move on to the engine compartment. Let’s start with putting the wire into the ABS/ESP connector. – Let’s take off the connector from the block (take off red clip (detent), lift the bracket fixing the connector and pull it all the way forward) – Take off the cover of the harness connector – in order to have access to the contacts you need to move the pink detent in the direction of the arrow – the wire should be inserted into the 22nd pin
But the story does not end there! Since the connectors on cars with ESP are different, the slot we need is blank! To be able to insert the pin you need to take a 3.5 mm drill bit and CURRENTly drill out the plastic. Do it without fanaticism! Otherwise the connector will be worthless!
PAY YOUR ATTENTION IN THE 22ND PIN THE WIRE IS INSERTED EXACTLY IN RUSSIAN POLO FROM 2013 ON BLOCKS OF 9,0! IN EUROPEAN AND RUSSIAN BEFORE 2013 IT SHOULD BE IN PIN 5!
This is the end of the wiring part!
Let’s proceed to replace the block itself and the brake pipes: – unscrew the brake pipes from the brake valve – put a container so as not to flood the engine with brake fluid! – Unscrew brake pipes from the block – lift the block up and take it out.
Next remove block bracket, it is fastened with 3 nuts.
– install new pipes – install new bracket
Now we proceed with pumping the system, that is firstly we pump the ABS/ESP block, then we pump each brake circuit.
At this point the mechanical part is over, let’s move on to coding and adaptation! Take the cord “VASIA”, connect it … Go to 19-th block / list of equipment / and put a tick in front of the 4-th block / save. The car now sees the steering wheel ring with the angle sensor.
Now move on to the coding of the ABS/ESP block There is an important point! For new coding we need native ABS unit coding! From the native coding we need data of 5,7,9,11 and 13th bytes! We just rewrite them! Then I took the encoding of the donor, the car with the ABS/ESP block and added the data of my bytes! Here’s what I got the encoding: 51DDD2C6421 25 07 C4 8A 19 34 6A 84 59 E0401500 bold bytes that are from my car.
Go to 03 block/long coding/ and enter the coding/save
Then go to “Basic Settings” 03 block/login/40168/save 03 block/adapt/adapt channel/execute
Turn the ignition off and on, then clear the errors and enjoy the result.