Installing the alarm system on the Volkswagen Polo Sedan.
I decided to equip my car alarm system for which I initially made the following requirements: 1. Dialogue with two-way communication. 2. Range of the remote. 3. Autostart function. 4. Ability to install additional sensors. 5. Possibility to install additional locks. 6. Convenient programming and adjustment. 7. Possibility of connection via CAN bus. 8. Closer to 4 windows.
First choice fell on Scher Khan Magicar 9, but read on the forum that this car alarm is exposed to electronic hacking code-grabber, in addition the base unit system judging by the photo on the Internet too great. One good thing – the range is great because of the long antenna RF-module. My choice would have fallen on the starline if not Pandora. In the end, I bought the Pandora DXL 3500. What is so good about this alarm? 1.Surprised by the very small size of the base unit! 2.Sigas meet all my requirements from p.1 to p.7 3. pleased with the possibility of setting and programming through a USB port in the base unit, there is even a save file settings. 4.Sigas at the moment can not be influenced by code grabbers (according to the manufacturer). 5. You can update the firmware version of the base unit (functions are added and errors are corrected). 6.The base unit can be powered from a backup battery.
So the costs: 1.Pandora DXL 3500 2.Odnononolnaya non-autonomous siren Pandora DS-530 – received as a gift 3.Door closer to 4 glass CHAMELEON PWC-4 – 300rub. 4.Bypass immobilizer starline BP-03 – 400rub. 5.Spare battery HW 12V, 2,3Ah – 650rub. 6.USB cord 1.5m – 150rub. 7.Heat shrink, additional wires, terminals, electrical tape, cable ties – 300rub.
Total cost of about 15300rub excluding installation. Installation costs: 0rub. – Putting himself.
Tools: soldering iron, wire-cutters, wire stripping, carving knife, file, glue Moment, screwdriver type TORX T20 and other.
Set of Pandora DXL 3500.
Before installing I read the entire forum polosedan.ru on the installation of alarm systems, to be easier to put, have studied the wiring diagram in the book and the connection diagram Pandora and on the basis of all studied drew his connection scheme alarm, which often had to edit.
Wiring diagram for VW Polo Sedan Comfortline.
I say at once – the door closer module on 4 windows I have not put because of the large amount of work on his installation, I think it will be a topic for another article BZh if I think to install.
The very process of installation divided into stages: 1. Removing the necessary panels and devices in the car. 2. Work in the underbonnet. 3. Work inside the interior. 4. Assembly of panels and instruments. 5. Programming, adjusting and checking the operation of the car alarm system.
Phase 1: to install were removed: right and left panel facings, glove box, car radio frame, radio, instrument cluster, upper trim of steering column (the lower was just bent, since it is necessary to remove the steering wheel), left air duct deflector (for ease of pulling wires), left panel opposite windshield (to pull cable from RF sensor and install LED), fuse box cover and (nearby) air duct to the driver and the panel under the handle opening the hood. All of this comes off with a book, hand effort, a TORX T20 type screwdriver, all fasteners are well made. This step took a lot of fiddling as it was the first time everything was done.
Removed the dashboard.
Removed stash box.
Removed radios and the emergency button.
Phase 2: The hood sensor was installed in a regular hole above the left headlight (I cut the hole a little bit, and the sensor was shortened by two coils).
The horn was also installed on the studs inside the engine compartment on the body under the engine control unit. The siren was prepped (terminated the ground wire).
Siren, ready for installation.
The engine temperature sensor is fastened on the standard bolt on the engine (see Figure).
Engine temperature sensor is attached.
All wires from the sensor and siren were wrapped with black duct tape, gently pulled into the cabin through the rubber seal between the cabin and the engine compartment with a steel wire (had to tinker, remove the engine control unit, black shield, shield under the left wiper just unbent, removing the left wiper).
Black plate almost unscrewed.
Phase: first inside the cabin installed the RF module and pulled its wire under the trim to the location of installation of the base unit, then drilled a hole in the side panel and fastened the glue LED – led the wire to the base unit. Hid the Valet button, also took out the wire. Installed relay module behind instrument cluster on left side and secured with screws from kit.
Installed relay module.
Connected the module according to the diagram, not forgetting to implement a gasoline pump interlock (wire gasoline pump in the fuse box, the fuse box itself is also removed previously, having removed the air duct to the driver’s feet). Disassembled the second ignition key and using soldering iron and acetone removed the immobilizer chip from it (careful! Glass), reassembled the key and put the chip in the immobilizer bypass module, fixing the chip inside with glue.
The chip was removed from the key.
The bypasser itself was hidden and connected with an antenna wrapped around the ignition switch. The antenna is wound about 6 turns (coil to coil) and secured with superglue.
Connections to the power wires of the ignition switch were made right next to the connector of the ignition switch, having previously removed the socket from the lock (the connector sits on the latch). The cabin temperature sensor was connected to the driver’s foot duct according to the illustration.
The temperature sensor was attached to the air duct.
The base unit was also hidden and a USB cable was led out from it for programming in a secluded place. The ground connection was found inside the panel with the glove box removed.
This is where the ground connection could be made.
Backup battery was placed in a secluded place, insulated with a thick sponge so it wouldn’t rattle. All connections were made according to the scheme on twisting, or soldering where possible, insulated with thermal tubing or electrical tape, wires were tightened with cable ties in some places. Some of the connections are best taken from the On-Board Network Control Unit (OBCU).
I have not yet installed window closers. Connected to the central lock through a 200 ohm resistor, to the handbrake through a decoupling diode. Step 4: assembled the panels in reverse order, carefully and slowly on the way to check all their connections and wiring. Stage 5: Connected the pre-built USB cable to a laptop and programmed the system, added remote key fobs, changed the service code. With the setup also long shamanil, configured the self-start. Unresolved problems: Not installed window closers.
Alarm recommend all flooders and not only …
Pandora DXL 3500 and VW Polo Sedan.
Maybe this blog post will be updated for a more detailed description. Good luck with the installation! Looking forward to your feedback and suggestions.
Installing StarLine Car Alarm A93 2CAN + 2LIN with my own hands (PART 1)
Good afternoon dear friends! I have long wanted to put an alarm system with automatic start, and my dream has come true, the choice fell on a car alarm StarLine A93 and additionally bought a module 2CAN + 2LIN, then many letters. StarLine A93 2CAN + Characteristics of car alarm StarLine A93 2CAN + 2LIN:
DIALOG PROTECTION Dialogic control code StarLine with individual 128-bit encryption keys guarantees reliable protection from all known code-grabbers
RADIO PROTECTION StarLine confidently works in conditions of extreme urban radio interference, thanks to a unique 128-channel transceiver
SUPER SLAVE Car security management on the staff key fob with a reliable additional authorization on the key fob StarLine
Extended temperature range StarLine confidently works in harsh climates at temperatures from minus 50 to 85 ° C thanks to high quality components
RECORD ENERGY ECONOMY StarLine ensures preservation of sufficient battery power for up to 60 days in protected mode through the use of patented technology and software solutions
CHANNEL CONTROL Automatic channel control ensures the presence of the remote keyfob in the range of the transceiver transmitter security equipment
PIN-Code AUTHORIZATION Additional authorization reliably protects the car from theft by enhancing the security functions of regular alarm system. Travel is possible only after entering an individual PIN-code using car buttons
3D SHOCK AND TILT Sensor Integrated digital shock and tilt sensor with remote adjustment detects jacking and evacuation of the vehicle
Invisible iCAN LOCK ensures reliable protection through a unique patented technology covert locking engine on the car’s internal digital buses Convenient service
Telematics (Option) Integration of GSM, GPS-GLONASS optional telematics interfaces allows you to remotely manage and monitor the security of your vehicle
CONTROL BY PHONE (OPTIONAL) Integration of GSM optional interface allows you to manage security and service functions, receive alerts on the status of protection of your cell phone
FREE BASE MONITORING (OPTION) With a simple and easy to use monitoring tool starline.online you can check the location of your vehicle within a few meters. This option is available if you connect GPS-GLONASS and have an optional GSM-interface.
2CAN+2LIN Intelligent Autostart allows you to remotely and automatically start the engine by temperature, at a preset time or periodically 2CAN+2LIN Provides gentle installation and minimal interference in the electronics of the car. A constantly updated library of 2CAN+2LIN protocols contains the most complete list of vehicles sold in Russia and the CIS
FLEXIBLE SERVICE CHANNELS Programmable parameters for controlling emergency lights, folding mirrors, adjusting the seats to the owner and much more
HARDARD IRON The StarLine key fob has an innovative, shockproof design, ergonomic features and internal protected antenna
Smart keyless immobilizer StarLine iKey allows you to implement keyless bypass factory immobilizer and engine start via digital tires CAN or LIN
Installation has decided to do by itself since we had the experience (though without the car and loopback), well, here we go:
1) Disconnect the minus terminal from the battery, and begin to cut into the original wiring, while using the scheme which is included in the kit
Looking at it, I realized that too much wire, and the fact that I have an interface 2CAN + 2LIN, half of them do not need to connect. After sitting in the Rinte, I edited it a bit for our car, the result:
2) Jack X1, as you can see we need 4 wires (2pcs Black-red, green and blue) two black-red wire is connected to each other, as a result of there go out a long wire with a terminal for screwing to mass and the second short with a terminal to connect the wires together. The long wire screwed to the mass on the steering column, as shown in the picture below:
and the short wire while leave alone, then go to the nearest electronics store and buy a resistor with a resistance of 800 ohms, well they did not have this, it was closer to him 820 ohms, further solder resistor one end to the green wire and the other to the blue (all this is done near the chip so there are not a lot of wires) and cut into the brown-green wire in the harness coming out of the driver’s door, as shown in the picture, the remaining wires (blue-black and green-black) cut and insulate, I used a heat shrink
3) Take the connector X2, we need two wires, a red (power +12v) and black (ground), the rest cut and insulate. Red wire I connected to the constant + in the chip of the radio, and the mass (black wire) we connect to the protruding short wire (black-red) in the connector X1, because there we already have the mass, connected to the steering column. The X2 connector is done. 4) Connector X3, are additional channels that can be used for additional connection to the car’s systems. In my case, will be implemented remote activation of heated seats, mirrors, heated windshield and heated rear window (well, it’s a little later), just with this connector X3 we need to pull a wire (gray) in the hood and connect it to a pre-installed siren. How to connect I think there will be no questions. 5) Section X4, hence we need only one wire (orange-gray) and the rest cut off and insulate, orange-gray wire pull under the hood to connect to the visor opening the hood. Well, I did not do it, I have not yet had occasion to drive with the hood open, for me senseless contactor. Maybe someday I will install it, who knows. 6) Go to the connector X7, pull the wires black and red in the hood to connect to the pre-installed engine temperature sensor as shown in the illustration:
+ to +, mass to mass (well, it’s logical =D), the rest of the wire to the power module. 7) Connecting the power module, here I will not write much on the scheme and everything is clear, the only thing I need to say is that when you cut wires to the ignition switch, it is better to solder them. 
Connectors X8, X10, X11, connect to the antenna, service button, LED indicator. 9) Connector X5 2CAN + 2LIN interface, connect the wires (brown and brown-red) connect to the connector dashboard as shown in the picture, while also looking at the scheme so as not to mix up the wires.
further wires (white-red, white-blue) are connected to the black connector of climate control, as shown on the picture, and again, looking at the diagram for the correct connection
Next, connect the blue wire (alternative control light signals) here I had to torture a bit, the instructions said to connect the blue wire to the blue-white wire connector alarm button, all was done, but the trouble is not working lights, what to do and so ride. Thought maybe programmed how you need to, no luck, already wanted to pull the + wire directly to the turn signals, well, I decided to disassemble the button broke, and as it turned out there with tsu** 2 wire with a white and blue color how I could not notice originally, well, immediately began to throw the blue wire to another, and then the miracle all works hurrah! said I myself. attached a picture of the connection:
then left to connect the two wires 2LIN to the VSM block (I have not yet connected, I think later will finish) these wires give us according to this table:
That who has a window closer, folding mirrors, when you press the close button will happen: the mirrors will be folded, the windows will be raised. Knowing that I have cost closers this function is useful to me. Well, that’s all, please do not kick my first entry, I’m a little embarrassed even =D. If you have any questions, be sure to answer. Thank you for your attention, good luck to all! PART 2
