Subject: The light in the trunk on the fifth door. Installing the lights. Fotoreport. Options.
Light in the trunk on the fifth door. Fixtures installation. Fotoreport. Options.
For everyone, but the regular trunk light of our and most other cars forces me to periodically use an additional light. The low mounted light overlaps even when the trunk is moderately full.
We periodically go out of town for nature or hunting. Sometimes we spend a week or more on a trip in the area (rocks, caves, etc.). In the dark without flashlight there is not much to find in the things in the trunk.
From the beginning I wanted to place additional lights above, on sloping surfaces where the shelf is supported. Tried different places – the best place on the fifth door and be sure to have two pieces on the edges – so as not to cover the head.
Under the fifth door panel has large windows in the iron, so there is enough depth to install the LED lights there. Found on sale LED lamp (pictured), I immediately liked it, it looks like a surgical chandelier.
Mount it other than the regular furniture light is difficult, in addition to the lamp should be rotary, otherwise the light will be in the threshold of the fifth door. Could not find on sale (no matter how hard I tried) a simple (no rhinestones and pearls), compact light in the color of the plastic fifth door. Bought a plain white one and painted it with a can of gray spray paint.
When removing the panel of the fifth door, if possible, it is better to help to remove the clips flat long screwdriver, slipping it into the gap. Break the clips not a problem, the brackets clips here. a couple of pieces had to glue then me.
Holes are drilled “ballerina” for tiles. Diameter must be chosen with a tight fit, otherwise it will hang out. The main thing – is to measure exactly where to drill to get into the windows in the iron door.
The ribs inside the plastic panel can be trimmed with a knife where the fixing springs touch – then the lamp will be also rotatable.
In the photo you can see the wiring to the lamp sockets and fixing them with plastic cable ties.
The sharp edges of the iron are glued with self-adhesive rubber tape (black).
The wire stretched in the right door glass post and through the right rubber conduit. The left one is more busy with wires, there is only a washer tube.
Connection parallel to the regular lamp.
Button switch specifically made a separate and in this place: First, I wanted to keep the regular light, so to speak to show the difference; Secondly, native switch inconvenient is clipor I am always bothering to find a finger
This is what came out you judge, but I am satisfied.
So it’s bright in the daytime. At night, it’s a nightmare.
Here you can see the swivel mechanism.
You can see the diagram from the Hungarian service manual. The wires to the regular light are WHITE with a red longitudinal stripe (+) and BLUE (-). You must NOT hook it to the ground, otherwise the refrigerator principle will not work. Regular bulb 6W, our light 3W x 2pcs = 6W – all complied.
In the photo, the light is only from the installed lights of the fifth door.
Impressions: The field test passed with flying colors! Bright uniform light without shadows. Now it is easy to find both the sweater and the sausage. Truth to say, I had to put a brightness control later so that insects from all around wouldn’t fly into my trunk. Swivel and tilt allows you to direct one light in the trunk, and another near the car in the clearing – well, very handy, for example, to put the parking lot or have dinner before spending the night on the road.
That I used: – Furniture swivel lights 2pcs for 95 rubles; – Spray-paint can gray 110r (from the construction market, automobile will be more expensive, but you can better pick up the color); – LED lamp FERON LB-12 3W, 12V, 140 Lumen, housing aluminum – 2pcs for 230 rubles. Lamp with a bunch of LEDs look really kohozno and have a capacity of 1.5W and often burns. This one has a circuit and a “spider” similar to the driver.
What to do when the light in the cabin of the car is gone
When buying a used car, not all future car owners thoroughly check the functionality of each of the assemblies. More attention is paid to the work of the engine, suspension quality and body condition. However, comfortable car running depends on many factors, including the presence of illumination inside the car.
Before you remove the plastic plafond to illuminate the space of the car interior on your own, you need to know that car manufacturers can mount lights in different areas. The most popular areas used for illumination are:
- center point on the ceiling or points on the side center pillars – the light extends throughout the cabin and is the main interior source for passengers or the driver;
- leg area – present in front passenger and driver vehicles;
- glove compartment – the light helps to quickly locate small items or documents;
- mirror under the sun visor – relevant for makeup or facial exams;
- door pile or button area – illumination helps you quickly close/open the door;
- luggage compartment – illumination here helps you find needed items or tools that should be here;
- side door lights – located in the doors, illuminated after opening and lit until the doors are tightly closed.
In most modern cars, most often the main light in the car interior is not lit. The lamp is located under the ceiling, but it is not possible to open it at the first attempt. The light source serves as a normal incandescent lamp with a transparent/semi-transparent lens, as well as an LED element.
Causes of lighting failure
If the light under the ceiling in the cabin of the car does not work properly, it can be a consequence of several reasons. They depend on the condition of the vehicle and its operating options.
It is not always necessary to delve into the electrical circuits. Sometimes it is enough to replace a simple lamp in the car interior light fixture to get everything back in working order. For ordinary bulbs, you can check the integrity of the filament through light, but for other sources, you can use a multimeter or other tester.
When testing conventional bulbs, you need to set the ohmmeter mode, and if a break in the circuit is detected, the cable is replaced. For LEDs, test current flow in one direction and no flow in the opposite direction (in case of polarity reversal).
When the light from the interior light is suddenly gone, it is recommended to check the condition of the fuses. They are not allocated separately for such option, but are combined with some device. In this case some other device will be out of order, for instance a radio sound will be lost or the salon clock will be extinguished.
According to the wiring diagram, look for the block, where the manufacturer’s fuse is located. It is most often located in the cabin or under the hood. The cause of the failure may be a short circuit. If it is not eliminated, the lamp will soon have to be replaced again.
You can get a new fuse under the cover of the unit. It is necessary to choose it according to the value in Amperes. If the driver found a higher amperage, it is not necessary to install such a jumper in the vacated slot. The consequences can negatively affect the melting of the wiring.
Missing (oxidized) contact
In any electrical circuit, there are quite a few connecting contacts. Oxide film or scale can form in each of them, interfering with the conductivity of the current. The main area of risk is directly the plafond and limit switches on the doors of domestic cars, since the latter do not have a protective cover of rubber.
It is easy to detect oxidation on the contact visually. It is enough to unscrew the plafond and remove the lamp. Then we clean the contact area and return the light source to serviceable condition. Cleaning is carried out with a fine-grained sandpaper or a flat screwdriver with the battery disconnected beforehand so as not to create a short circuit.
Wires are broken.
It is not always necessary to change the bulbs in the plafond, as they may turn out to be functional, and the culprit in this situation will be a broken cable. In some places, the wiring is significantly bent, which over time leads to its breakage. Drivers are faced with such troubles with the cable, which is led in the trunk lid or in the door.
Damage can be detected by deformed insulation. It turns out to be visible on the twist, joint or bend. What wire is responsible for lighting, you can find out from the wiring diagram or by testing the cables with a tester. The condition is monitored from the plafond after it is removed to the fuse block.
To replace the lamp you will need a flat and a Phillips screwdriver. At the initial stage, get rid of the lens by inserting a flat screwdriver into the gap between the plastic glass and the rim of the lamp housing. Lightly pry so that the element succumbs.
It is important to know that on most of the lamps manufacturers provide special auxiliary grooves to work with the screwdriver.
After gaining access to the lamps, it is necessary to monitor their performance. If they are normal, then check the condition of the contacts, which should not be oxide or other contamination. If an oxide film is detected, clean it with an abrasive cloth or file.
There may be a button in the lamp that does not work. During repair work, check its condition and replace or repair if necessary. Suitable wires must be securely fastened.
Next, look at the condition of the fuse. If it has obvious signs of breakage, we carry out its replacement. In more complicated cases, we turn to the specialists of the car service.
Most of the problems with the backlight in the car can be solved independently. You can get by with replacing the light bulb in the cabin or replacing the right fuse. Such work does not require special tools or knowledge of electrical engineering. All operations must be carried out with the battery terminal removed.