Improvement and modernization of the heater of VAZ 2110
September 09, 2011 | Author: Nick | Viewings: 195158 |
If the heater of VAZ 2110 does not blow into the legs or blows on the sides. Doesn’t blow into the legs of rear passengers or in the rain the windows are constantly sweating, it’s normal At least that’s what AvtoVaz thinks. After modification of the heater in the VAZ 2110 such problems will not be.
Before you start all modifications and modernization of the heater, you need to be sure that the heater works properly. Otherwise, it must be repaired. What would redo the heater VAZ 2110 first remove the panel and disassemble it for parts.
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All parts are held together by bolts.
So the best way to make side window airflow in the VAZ 2110 is to tape up all the gaps in the panel.
I closed the gap between the top and bottom of the panel, as well as bolt holes with an antiskrip (modelin).
Next, you need to modify the heater damper, which directs the air to the windshield, face and legs. Initially, this flap is not tight, and some of the air flows to the wrong place. Using simulin and double sided adhesive tape (with it I taped the damper itself) I taped all the gaps and the damper itself. Instead of sponge I put Bitoplastic10 over the body. In some places in two layers.
Most of the air flow is lost in the gap, which is located at the beginning of the path to the driver’s window. It is quite large, so I filled it with foam.
A frequent question: Does not the foam creak inside the panel? The answer is based on my experience: No, no squeaks.
Then we move on to the modernization of the heater in terms of blowing the legs of the driver and rear passengers. Plastic air distribution unit (herringbone) also has a gap along its entire length, so the VAZ 2110 heater blows poorly in the legs.
You can certainly try to seal the gap, but I decided to kill two birds with one stone using a corrugated tube. Huffs not only deliver air flow to the legs without loss, but will take up little space under the panel. In this place there are a lot of wires, access to which is very difficult. After installing the leg blower, there is much more space for wiring.
So I cut the herringbone and foamed inside its three corrugations. Central hose from a vacuum cleaner (inside smooth, diameter 40mm, and two others – the usual ribbed inside, also 40mm diameter) Important: The diameter of the tube should not be less than 40mm, and if the tube is long, then it must be smooth inside, otherwise it will whistle! It turns out one conduit – for the driver’s leg, another for the front passenger’s leg and a third long one to the ashtray – for the rear passengers. Baffles at the tunnel cut off, so that the corrugator could easily fit there. I also taped small holes near the air ducts. It is more for my soul, than for use.
Modification of air damper of VAZ 2110
In a frost below -20, there is a problem: you can not make the air flow in all directions simultaneously. And then either feet freeze, or the side windows freeze. You have to move the flap all the time – first to the legs, then to the face…
In cars manufactured since 2003 and newer, the air blows in all directions at once, and before 2003 – only in the legs. It’s all explained here. So I modified it to my liking. I upgraded flaps Sawed out the edges of the flap without removing anything with a metal saw (red). Front window flap did not touch (in my opinion if it and sawed down the edge, it will be worse to blow on the edges of the windshield) And sawed out a piece (green) to increase the intake on the side window of the driver. Sawed long and hard in the evenings with a flashlight in his teeth Sawed 2 hours exactly … Then I bought a can of coffee for 230r in a tin can (coffee by the way I do not drink, and my wife does not like, so the guests for 5 years enough)
All blowing as wanted: face flap – only the face and side window flap on the windshield – only on the windshield Flap on the legs – 50% side windows, 25% of the legs, 25% windshield. Sawed out the flap smaller pieces – will be less flow on the side windows and more in the legs. So far, decided to leave it this way, if not like it, you can cover with the same tin plates sawed out. The plates from the coffee can is better to paint black, that they would not be visible through the grille.
Modification of the heater leg blower VAZ 2110
You will need dusters, any you like. You need a grill, I took it from the old speakers. Cut out a circle from the grille. Here is such a rubber band (bought also at the car market) attached the grille to the anther. Fixed it with superglue. On the other side was fixed by cable ties, but it is possible to fix it by plastic clamps. This way of blowing air for the driver’s feet will not work, because it will be very hot on the right foot on the gas pedal.
Instead of my grill (from the speakers) you can use for example rubber pads from Fiat-Punto. This is the option Illuzion came up with .
After I realized that the airflow to the driver’s feet needed to be redone. I made an airflow for the driver’s feet behind the pedals.
Cut a corner off the plastic wall at the bottom of the panel.
And inserted a plumbing pipe. This way in my opinion is the most efficient and easiest.
For heating rear passengers I took out a corrugated tube from the ashtray. I did not do airing of rear passengers legs through OEM plastic liners under the seats. To do this you will have to put two corrugations instead of one. Then you will have to use a corrugated tube with a smaller diameter. If you decide to do two corrugations under the seats, then raise the plastic rails under the seats so they do not blow into the edges of the mats.
By the way, you can use a deflector from the VAZ 2105 instead of the grille. Then the air flow at the feet of rear passengers can be controlled. And if you install a fan, it will be able to increase the flow of air into the legs. Next, how to show people the effect after modification of the heater VAZ 2110? What was built system (bellows + curved tube) gives a great air flow to the feet of front and rear passengers? Just bring the fire to the place of blowing, which I did The whole result in the video at the end of the article, judge for yourself.
How to modify the heater VAZ 2110 a simple way without disassembling the panel and without a bellows
Redesign of the heater, which I showed above, though complicated and long, but very effective.
It is possible to remove herringbone without taking off the panel of VAZ 2110. The procedure is described by “savinov”: Take off both sides of the beard and the glove compartment. Saw off the Christmas tree with a wood hacksaw from below as far as it was seen in the opening (author photo). Unscrew the herringbone bolt and lower it down. Once again we saw off what was in the opening. That’s all. The remaining upper piece is pulled out into the glove box aperture. The whole job took an hour. We treat the upper piece, glue it with thermal adhesive, put the hoses in, fill it with foam, put it back on the silicone sealant.
Is it possible to improve or redo the furnace in a simpler way? It really is possible. To improve the efficiency of the heater (air flow distribution) you can do something simpler.
Unfortunately there is not enough for all the holes, the missing part can be made from strips of plastic or pick up a small ventilation grille and glue it part.
Or to make it easier and cut in the grids from the ends of the doors. Separately sold at a price of 10 rubles/piece.
This method is only suitable for the old-style heater. The matter is that on it the branch pipe is directly on the intake pipe, that is the coolant (coolant) goes through it without heating the radiator. With the new heater – the vapor vent is located almost at the end of the radiator – that is the coolant that went through it has already given the heat (the main part) to the radiator. How to determine which heater is installed at your place? September 2003 is the approximate date before the old heater was installed, and after the new one. It is easy to determine by the new jabo and ACS (modes 1 2 3 4 ) as opposed to the old (A 1 2 3) or very old (A 1 2).
|The fifth option – for those who do not think about the rear passengers or ride in the car without them. You just block the flow for the rear passengers with any material at hand. You can close it right at the herringbone exit. This way most of the flow will be to the front seats legs and there will be no flow to the back.|
The sixth option from Vladzero – the central deflector stub. It almost completely blocks the air flow to the central deflectors, thereby improving the flow of air for the heating of the side windows and the interior of the car as a whole.
|The seventh option is to install heater crane under the hood.|
|The eighth option is to make thermal insulation of floor, doors and ceiling. To use as insulator SPLEN or isolon. And also to modify or establish additional door seals. Thus, the warmth in the salon of the car will stay longer.|
|The ninth option – to heat the heater on VAZ 2110 in winter and at idle speed, you can install in the VAZ 2110 additional pump from the gazelle. Then the saline will circulate faster and at idle the heater will give the same heat as it does while driving.|
|The tenth option – modify the VAZ 2110 thermostat.|
|The eleventh option – modify the engine cooling system for Kalinova. It will be faster engine heating in winter.|
|Twelfth option – to redo cabin ventilation. Make venting through the trunk. The interior ventilation will be more effective and as a consequence there will be less fogging/freezing of glasses, the interior will be warmer in winter and cooler in summer.|
|The thirteenth variant – to change the principle of work of a flap of a heater by installation of additional draught.|
The fourteenth variant – modification from ! In more detail here.
The point of modification is in increase of coolant quantity (i.e. increase of circulation) in the heater and as a consequence air temperature increase on the heater outlet.
- In the cooling system a decent amount of heated coolant passes through the vapor tubes, and all this coolant passes by the heater. As in the past method, the vapor outlet tube is being squeezed.
- Just as much fluid goes past the heater through the throttle heating channel. The throttle preheat connections are almost in the same places as the heater connections, which means that the two consumers are sitting in parallel. I.e. the throttle heating channel simply bypasses the fluid flow through the heater.
The solution: I completely removed the throttle heating pipes and plugged their fittings, as a result the coolant flow in the heater increased. And I let the radiator’s steam branch through the throttle and now the stream of liquid in the steam branch pipe makes useful work heating the throttle. (I clarify: the liquid continues to flow from the radiator into the expansion tank, but the throttle heater is inserted in the gap of the steam pipe)
The connectors to which the hoses going to the throttle heating were previously connected were plugged with short sections of tubing with plugs on the ends, clamped with clamps. Plugs (by coincidence) were copper-plated bolts, matching diameter of the threaded part
I disconnected the radiator steam pipe from the tank and connected it to the heating connector on the throttle, connected a new pipe to the second connector on the throttle and connected it to the tank. (you could probably use one of the old throttle heater tubes, but they became oaky and I threw them away).
I didn’t have any difficulties with this, the main thing is to carefully drain some liquid through the detachable tubes of regular throttle preheater.
After that the air flow from the heater became much darker/hotter.
If you still do not have enough heat in the cabin of the car and you are exhausted and do not know how else to squeeze heat from the regular heater, you can install an additional heater in the cabin.
How to upgrade the heater VAZ-2110
Owners of “dozens” are often faced with various kinds of problems in the design of this car. They may touch, in principle, any unit, including the stove. Moreover, when it is winter outside, no one wants to freeze in a trip, of course. So we have to finish what the constructors started, modernizing the heater for its more effective work. Taking into consideration severe Russian climate, such modernization is the necessity, but not the whim of motorists.
Speaking in general, the design solution of the heater VAZ-2110 in a fit to describe as quite successful. But in order to make this unit work properly, it needs also qualitative assembling and absence of effects from the components. At that, both the first and the second are long-standing problems of domestic automobile industry. So the motorists have to eliminate the factory defects on their own.
How you can improve the heater VAZ-2110
So, let’s consider the situation when the interior of the “ten” is not heated effectively enough. Accordingly, you should eliminate this problem. By and large, the modernization of the heater of the car VAZ-2110 with their own hands is not some too difficult work, but without certain time costs still can not do without. Of course, some skills still need to have, but to do it on the power of almost anyone. The main thing – to have patience and have the appropriate desire. In addition, to modernize the furnace also need:
- sealant or silicone;
- installation foam;
- simple locksmith tools.
It is possible, in particular, to go by the simplest way, with minimal effort. This option – this is the best solution when the result should be obtained in the shortest possible time, and to engage in a complete redo of the entire system there is no time or desire.
In particular, the easiest way will be simply to block the heater channels, through which the warm air is supplied to back passengers. Naturally, you sacrifice comfort of those who sit behind. But such variant is justified, if a driver drives alone almost constantly. This simple manipulation will allow increasing a flow of warm air, which heats legs area in front part of the car.
The same result can be achieved using another simple method. In particular, the air ducts of the central deflector of the heater should be blocked. To do this, you need to cut, for example, from an aluminum sheet, a suitable size plug. Overlapping central deflector, you will thereby increase the flow of warm air directed to the other heating ducts of the car.
Another option for upgrading the VAZ “tenth series” heater is to replace the regular 5-hole thermostat with a more modern one with 6 holes. In this case, you should not have any complications or problems. These thermostats are interchangeable. However, the 6-hole version is more technically advanced. For example, it helps to increase the heating efficiency of the furnace radiator. And the cost of such a replacement is not so expensive.
Now let’s consider a more labor-intensive modernization of the heater “ten”. We are talking about the improvement of the air ducts, and for this we will need to remove the regular installation. Naturally, for such work you will need to spend more time and effort, but the positive effect here is much more noticeable. In order to do everything thoroughly, you need to seal the gaps in the ducts of the torpedo, located on the front panel.
In addition, it is necessary to make certain changes in the design of the car’s furnace damper. It will also be necessary to upgrade the systems responsible for heating the rear passengers and the driver’s leg area. In particular, you will need to lay new heating channels – you can do it with the help of a corrugated tube. As you can see there is really a lot of work. But all expenses of time and efforts will be repaid in cold winter time when it will be freezing outside and the interior will be warm and comfortable.
So, let’s proceed to work. First of all it is necessary to remove a dashboard, a torpedo and air ducts. Do not forget that before removing the dashboard, you should unscrew the minus terminal from the battery. Next, remove the floor tunnel cover, heating system air ducts, and after that – the body itself. The latter is not difficult to do – you just need to unscrew the self-tapping screws. Before dismantling the dashboard, you should remove the glove box. There is also nothing complicated here, but you need to do everything carefully so as not to break anything. Next, unscrew the bolts that fasten the dashboard, as well as all the fixing screws.
In order to provide normal air flow inside the “Ten” with warm air, you should seal a sufficiently large number of gaps that are in the air duct system of the torpedo. Thus you not only reduce heat loss, but also increase pressure of the air flow to the side windows. To get rid of the gaps, it is better to use silicone or modelin. Do not forget to seal all fasteners as well. That’s all, the first stage of the work on modernization of the heater “ten” is over.
However, you should also solve the problem associated with the furnace flap. It occurs due to insufficient sealing of the slots in the housing. As a result, there is a significant loss of warm air, and this occurs regardless of the position of the flap. To get rid of this problem, you can put an additional seal, using double-sided tape and modlin. The operation is quite simple, requiring only patience. In this case it is necessary to simply glue the body of the gate, having previously removed the factory seal, as well as the damper itself. By doing this you will significantly reduce the loss of warm air flow.
I would like to note one point. It is also necessary to seal the gap, which is located at the beginning of the channel through which the air is supplied to the windshield. Here only the sealant is not enough, and the best option would be an assembly foam. It will reliably eliminate unwanted air ducts, which, in turn, will get rid of significant losses in the delivery of heat to the windshield.
In order to upgrade that part of the heating system, which is responsible for heating the driver and front passenger’s leg area, the best option is to lay new heating ducts. The thing is that the module, which distributes heat to this part of the cabin, has certain factory defects. In addition, the sealing of slots here is also insufficient. If you do not want to spend a lot of time, you can take a simpler way. Gaps should be sealed with silicone or modelin – in this case you are sure you will not violate the idea designers, but only to improve it.
However, many motorists prefer more radical variant. They cut the “herringbone”, through which the distribution of the air flow is carried out, and install 3 corrugations instead. The diameter of the pipes must be exactly 40 millimeters – this is a very important point. This option allows you to increase the reliability of sealing the ducts.
In addition, corrugated hoses take up less space than the “herringbone”, and due to this will be much easier access to the electrical wiring system “ten”. This is a really important point. You will surely appreciate this advantage, when carrying out repair work related to the wires. Hoses are sealed with installation foam, and we simply remove the partitions of the stock airflow distribution system. Piping does not need to be made too large, otherwise you risk getting an additional source of unpleasant noise.
As we can see, if we talk in general, there is nothing complicated in the work on the modernization of the heater cars “tenth” family. The cost of improvement will be relatively low, because everything can be done with your own hands, and the necessary materials are inexpensive. But after that you will immediately feel the difference between “before” and “after”. You should agree that in cold season, when there is a minus temperature outside, it is much more comfortable to travel in a warm car salon. Therefore if there were any problems with operation of the heater, it is worth to spend time and efforts, because the result will please you. Well, do not forget to change the air filter regularly – it should be done every 15 thousand kilometers.