Revamping washer VAZ 2109
Hello. I want to share my idea to upgrade the window washer on a 9-ke. The bottom line is to install a second motor and getting rid of solenoid valves washer (which are now on sale is very difficult to find, as put them even at the very first Samara with the old tank, where there was a remote pump).
What we need to have:
1) Two motors (I always buy from vaz 2110, as they are more powerful (2.5 ATM vs. regular 2108 1.6 ATM), I advise to buy the company PRAMO, as included with the pump itself is planting a bushing and a small mesh filter for cleaning).
2) Tank new sample under 2 pumps (on sale there are already ready with 2 holes, but no problem can be done and the second, if the tank has a landing place under the second pump, as in my case).
3) Check valve carburetor 2108. Needed to ensure that the washing fluid is constantly in the pipeline, and when you turn on the pump instantly hit the glass before the wiper, not after its passage on the dry glass.
4) The washer hose, a very short length, cm~10. Needed to connect the pump with a check valve.
Now let’s get to work:
1) Make a hole for the second pump.
2) We put the rubber bushings on silicone sealant.
3) Install the pumps themselves.
4) And connect as follows: To the first pump (which is closer to the headlight), we bring the pipe from the rear window washer + check valve with a piece of hose. And to the second pump – windshield washer hose. Why exactly in this sequence? Because when the washing fluid freezes the second pump will warm up quicker, which is located closer to the engine, because you need the front washer more.
Next, we connect the wires to the pumps: The black wires (twin) to the “-” pumps. Connect the pink wire to the “+” terminal of the windshield pump (this wire used to be on the front window valve). Then connect the pink wire with the black stripe to the “+” of the rear window pump. The remaining two wires (pink with a white stripe and the third black) are insulated.
For better spraying you can still put dual jet washer nozzles or fan from the VAZ 2110.
Improvement of the washer VAZ 2109
Hello. I want to share my idea to upgrade the window washer on a 9-ke. The bottom line is to install a second motor and getting rid of solenoid valves washer (which are now on sale is very difficult to find, as put them even at the very first Samara with the old tank, where there was a remote pump).
What we need to have:
1) Two motors (I always buy from vaz 2110, as they are more powerful (2.5 ATM vs. regular 2108 1.6 ATM), I advise to buy the company PRAMO, as included with the pump itself is planting a bushing and a small mesh filter for cleaning).
2) Tank new sample under 2 pumps (on sale there are already ready with 2 holes, but no problem can be done and the second, if the tank has a landing place under the second pump, as in my case).
3) Check valve carburetor 2108. Needed to ensure that the washing fluid is constantly in the pipeline, and when you turn on the pump instantly hit the glass before the wiper, not after its passage on the dry glass.
4) The washer hose, a very short length, cm~10. Needed to connect the pump with a check valve.
Now let’s get to work:
1) Make a hole for the second pump.
2) We put the rubber bushings on silicone sealant.
3) Install the pumps themselves.
4) And connect as follows: To the first pump (which is closer to the headlight), we bring the pipe from the rear window washer + check valve with a piece of hose. And to the second pump – windshield washer hose. Why exactly in this sequence? Because when the washing fluid freezes the second pump will warm up quicker, which is located closer to the engine, because you need the front washer more.
Next, we connect the wires to the pumps: The black wires (twin) to the “-” pumps. Connect the pink wire to the “+” terminal of the windshield pump (this wire used to be on the front window valve). Then connect the pink wire with the black stripe to the “+” of the rear window pump. The remaining two wires (pink with a white stripe and the third black) are insulated.
For better spraying you can still put dual jet washer nozzles or fan from the VAZ 2110.
Comments 67
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Thanks so much for the helpful cheat sheet . Didn’t look into the intricacies, just changed the tank, two pumps and check valve. The ground screws were screwed through a plate – there was no ground. Cleaned up and … Everything worked. Before that, since the summer, very bad pump pumping . You can say the brushes scrubbed the dirt from the glass and then there was frost.
Good system. Except that I couldn’t find any motor motors from Pramo, so I bought a regular one from a 10. But I have some kind of filter on the filler neck. And I thought I would get nicer return valves, but the seller told me to blow and feel the difference. Well, the ones you got were the best quality. The others just didn’t hold pressure… (what are they for then)
Hi. Can you tell me, did everything seems to be the same…but the motors don’t work…what could it be? Also, when I turn on the rear wipers to wash – with it and do the front three movements.
Went around all local gop-shops – all around some black pumps, the cheerful price of 300 rubles. Finally ordered one online, thanks by the way for the part code!
I have a bunch of wires and sockets, I think they’re called EMK. Did you have one of these as well? I have a picture on my blog. How do I remove all this stuff and where do I put the extra wires?
The only thing that’s extra are the two wires. I used to have those valves too.
If they don’t work it would be cheaper to buy a new one and do as described here
Rear nozzle will be turned off, I will make one motor without valves on the windshield, will not have enough power – will add a motor)
Check valve on the rear window set?
Yes, only the rear for now.
Check valve on the rear window set?
By the way, these motors are long dead and can’t be disassembled.
Zommer, but it’s not removable either.
Good ones? Are they still there?
Yeah, they seem to be fine, so far they’re working fine.
Thanks for the idea. I’ve been sick and tired of these solenoid valves. When you turn the heater on, even on one room, the water doesn’t come out… when you turn it off, it comes out… I changed 10 units over 2 years… When you put in a new one, it works fine for 2 months and then it stops… now I did the same and the problem is gone. I did not put in a valve and nothing comes out… happiness is unlimited… 
Thank you so much it worked!
And I, on the contrary, put a solenoid valve, they are easy to find here. It’s a very convenient thing. You press it and it sprays right away, the brushes don’t move when it’s dry.
We can’t find a pump like that here.
I have Pramo motors too. One works well, the second died after 2 days. I could buy a reverse valve from an aquarium, it’s smaller. But I took it off when there were nozzles from vaz 2110. Spraying on the window wipers cleaned 3 times, and the water at speed rushed to the glass, have another time to turn on the wipers only rub they have a larger area on dry. That’s it.
The valves from 8 are complete crap, God willing, if you get a good one, I had them put on two pumps, then removed, because the store tried a bunch, they went back to the same thing, good advice gave about toyotovskogo … Nozzles I advise from the Volvo XS90, fanlight nozzles fit with a small kolhozom in the native place on the hood, a few years riding with them and enjoy (the price per unit is true about 250r), well, the rear washer I removed and put one motor on the left side of the window, and the second on the right (in the winter a couple of cans washer spend, sometimes three, given that Use always, I do not like when the window dirty)
Recently installed fan nozzles from the Volvo 30655605 (from the x90), but the problem is that they pour out below the middle of the windshield, just above the wipers and so sluggishly how then, and native jet normal, chet Vache not expected such an laying (((. Maybe the washer motor, get a little more help?
1-I kind of glued a piece of duct tape under the front of the nozzle, thereby her muzzle raised, outwardly it is not visible at all, since the glue 2 * 2mm, whether I cut the rubber from the native and stuck under the nozzle, 2-I immediately put two motors, one for one pisilka, the second on the second pisilka, on the back I have it removed, since never used. Frankly, there are reviews, where they put them on the Ulan and Toyotas, it seems to me better than ours from one motor, weak our motors, our motors are much better poured fan from ten. 4-I advise to remove the check valve eight, try without it, and why do you need this mesh, you fill the tank clean or water, this grid will only save from leaves or dirt, and if you have it in the tank, then you poured water from a puddle, I think in this case it only reduces the pressure.
Not a bad idea, especially with the check valves! But one more thing you should make sure to do to your modification is to “CLEAN THE ENGINE” (it’s too dirty)!
What will it do? Will it make the car go better? Car washes offer “engine wash with a special agent”, which after 5 minutes of exposure corrodes aluminum. Of course, it will wash out all soot, but now imagine, what will happen, if this crap gets, for example, under pipes.
No, it will not go faster! But to make such beautiful rework (like 2 pumps), and next to this background piece of _avn! Not the order! IMHO A, to wash the engine – to go to the car wash forbid categorically (you are right), for this rag and take it with gasoline and rub carefully.
You’ll get tired of rubbing it with your hands. It’s hard to work with gloves, and the direct touch of gasoline on your skin is bad for your hands, not to mention the harm of inhaling gasoline fumes with your lungs. It is easier to pay 500 rubles at a car wash and in 10 minutes you will get all the dirt and carbon deposits cleaned to a shine. It is only desirable to cover the fuse box, trambler, alternator and battery with packages.
Not only is my engine covered in burnt oil, but the box is so dirty (mixed with burnt oil and heating oil) that I couldn’t even use my finger to pick it all off.
