Royal paint finish car interior parts with his hands
Tachet hands could not deign to write a post here. Who has read the drive, well, someone not there, share the information here.
And now for the disassembly of the interior and door cards. Listen, I now understand why German porn is so popular. It’s the same porn I experienced in disassembly. To unscrew one bolt in the area of the torpedo, you have to disassemble half of the car somewhere near the trunk. I did everything according to the TIS. But in any case, it turned out to be much more painful than in theory.
Started with the door cards, nothing complicated, 5 screws, 6 nuts and a couple of snaps with a handful of clips, and voila, for the next week, my doors will look like this.
And then, chaos began)) To remove the small bar under the selleck, had to remove the entire unit with the selleck, washer and handbrake. But I conquered it.)
Next 3 hours spent on the central console with armrests and glove compartment (dobole gemornaja thing) 30 minutes for disassembly and temporary steering wheel assembly.
In one evening removed 2/3 of all the decorative panels
Until all painted, dried and polished, the cabin will look like this ))
The next day dismantled the remaining panels and handed the master for painting. Chet I walked around the car, looked. I understand that the BMW, corporate grille and everything. But if the car has no chrome at all, except for the bezels of the nostrils. In my opinion it’s not quite harmonious. And since the interior trims are still at the painter, I think let me get him to do the nostrils.
Removing them from the hood, is not difficult. I pressed on peculiar petals from below and by the sides, the nostril assembly falls out forward. Now the car looks like a piglet with a nickel.)
Putting back chrome grille and without it, in order to imagine how it would be with black trim, convinced of my opinion that the chrome get rid of.
Dismantled the grilles and separated trim from them.
After pickling interior slats, left Chlorine Iron, I think “let me in it and hold this chrome.
But it turned out that the grease has already lost some of its properties, and as a result, the nostrils were in an improvised tray from an old screwdriver =)) about 1.5 days
As a result, chrome and floated in the oxidized substance, but small areas of substrate (or it’s copper, or something else) remained, but it’s not bad, with abrasives remove, the main thing that in “hard to reach” places all the chrome and substrate to get off the plastic.
And so took away and put their updated nostrils, in my opinion, black trim much more harmoniously fit the style of my particular car. There is one but, after installing black nostrils, the frames in view of their blackness look smaller, and here I realized the beauty of restyled. It seems like a small thing, but it would look better. But never mind, I like these too ))
Photos of nostrils and just a couple of pics while the car is clean)
Also in the process of drying and polishing interior trims.
It’s done, oh miracle, how much time has passed, I even got used to drive a car with the interior disassembled, and here it is happiness)
I will start with the fact that I picked up the strips, at 3 pm, and by 6 already put everything, I did not expect that the enthusiasm will spur me so. Here, by the way, the rule, not to break, does not work at all) The experiment with the painting of the frame of the central air ducts, I am very pleased, the torpedo, there is flat straight glossy line, which refreshes and enhances a few than the native version of the painting.
And then you judge what the result is.
And here is after
Bar between back seats
Steering wheel (don’t look at the braid, it’s temporary until it’s re-stitched)
Woodwork and elements of this natural material are treated in different ways. Someone prefers not to hide the natural beauty under an artificial layer of additional coverage, while others, on the contrary, want to give the wood extra charm and luster. One of the most used ways to treat wood is varnishing, but today we will tell you not about the usual coating, which only slightly emphasizes the texture and pattern of the given material, but about the piano lacquer. This type of wood finish attracts the eye due to the luxurious, rich look of the finished product.
What is a glossy varnish?
This type of paintwork material, such as royal lacquer, is a special substance, which is commonly used to cover wooden surfaces. The distinctive feature that distinguishes it from other varnishes is a completely unconventional appearance on the finished product. Wood coated with it acquires a mirror-glossy surface of deep black color. Although there are other shades of this coating, it is black that is the main one.
Originally it was made on an oil basis, but at the present time the producers give more preference to modern high-tech synthetic components, which make the lacquer surface be less susceptible to the external environment and be in principle more durable. In addition, the newer types are easier to handle and applying piano lacquer is no longer as time-consuming as it was decades ago.
Not just a piano
This painting product got its name for a reason. Piano lacquer in the people became known precisely because the manufacturers of keyboard and string musical instruments covered the wooden panels of pianos, grand pianos and guitars with this coating. The advantages of this choice are quite obvious: the instrument turned out beautiful and wear-resistant.
Over time, the unusual color and texture was noticed by manufacturers of other household items, primarily caskets and decorative items. Later royal varnish for its rich gloss was also fancied by car enthusiasts, who used it for decoration of wooden parts inside the interior of their cars. The music lovers are the category of craftsmen who used black gloss for finishing loudspeaker systems. In their skilful hands quite trivial factory-made speakers turned into true masterpieces, shining beautifully with shiny sides after being covered with royal lacquer.
A beautiful sound
For some reason it so happens that it is the stereo equipment that now undergoes the most changes in the hands of amateurs and master painters. Speakers, subwoofers and individual elements of musical instruments are subjected to it. Manufacturers more often focus on the internal filling of their devices, not wanting to spend additional resources and finances on expensive finishing of mass-market products. However, some of their products still differ in appearance precisely because they are covered with a noble varnish with a bright gloss and original depth of color.
To apply royal lacquer with their own hands on the acoustics are trying and at home, but not everyone succeeds at the first time. The main difficulty is to find a suitable varnish and then to apply it to the initially unprepared surface. To make the piano lacquer looked smooth, the coating did not contain foreign inclusions and impurities, the material should be applied on a perfectly flat plane, devoid of any roughness.
Car enthusiasts are also significant trendsetters in the use of this type of lacquer. Neither amateur hobbyists, nor professional workshops, rendering car tuning services, are not squeamish about such decoration.
Moreover, even the venerable giants of car industry cover the parts of their cars with it. Earlier only natural wood elements could be painted, but now there is a more budget-friendly variant – lacquered plastic, which is represented as real high-gloss.
The royal lacquer in cars undoubtedly looks luxurious, and it is one of the signs of the cars of representation class. But, in addition to beauty, there is a significant disadvantage in the lacquered surfaces – they settle dust very quickly and are easily scratched. It is necessary to take care of the parts coated with royal lacquer, special microfiber cloths. They can be replaced with wipes for wiping monitors and lenses. With the help of such accessories, the surface can easily be polished to a mirror shine, and there will be no streaks and small lint on it.
Types of varnish
As previously mentioned, the first gloss was applied with oil-based varnishes. The disadvantages of such coatings were many: the application process itself was labor-intensive, the material had a very specific flavor and required a long drying time. It has been replaced by more practical polyester, water-polyurethane and nitrocellulose varnishes. The latter are more often used for furniture but they are not good enough for decorating cars, acoustics and musical instruments because they lack solidity and color depth.
You can solve this problem by using epoxy resin, the result will be quite good. Polyesters also look very good on the surface, pleasing and their color variety. Polyurethane royal varnish, according to user reviews, is easy to apply, in addition, it is almost odorless, and this is an additional plus when you need to work in a poorly ventilated room.
Preparation – the first task
In order for the gloss varnish to lay evenly on the surface, it should be pre-treated. The final appearance of the lacquered product depends very much on how well the master grinded the plane and made the starting coat of its coverage.
Specialists advise to start the finish of a piano lacquer with sanding the surface, while cleaning it from the dust resulting from grouting (best to use a vacuum cleaner). Neglecting this measure is fraught with the fact that microscopic sanded particles will appear on the surface of the product after the varnish is poured, and then it will be absolutely impossible to get rid of them.
After sanding the surface must be impregnated with nitrolacquer, to work in the easiest way possible with a soft brush. The layer of impregnation is not necessary to make a thick, because before you apply the base, the primer must be thoroughly dry. The main task of the nitrolacquer is to create an insuperable barrier between the wood and the final coating.
How to properly apply lacquer to the surface?
The very application of varnish on a properly prepared surface should not cause difficulties. If epoxy resin is used for the work, it is recommended to warm it up before pouring, this will help get rid of air bubbles. Another nuance is the proportions in which the resin is diluted with a special hardener. Experts share the secret and advise to use one part of the diluent eight parts of the resin instead of ten.
There are also special imported varnishes, which the product is covered in two layers (for example, Tikkurila), but the high cost is their main drawback. Applied such a coating pulverizer, but you can get by with an ordinary foam sponge.
Manufacturers, realizing the increased popularity of royal lacquer, offer customers alternative coatings. These may be special heavy-duty films, which after gluing can’t be distinguished from the high quality lacquer, and even plastic coverings. In the automotive industry, elements made of plastic with a glossy surface are gaining popularity. Such elements look presentable, easy to care for and are in demand among buyers.
black lacquer for car plastic
The process is not quick. To begin with, there is the dismantling of the plastic. Saber on the torpedo is simply yanked off on itself. The cover acdt pulled up (to do this, you need to remove the handle, turning its base on the axis and pulling the handle up), then from the cover acdt unscrew the mudguard panel (4 screws). To remove the pad on the steering wheel, you need to turn the steering wheel upside down, find a hole at the back of the steering wheel, press into it with a screwdriver and pull the airbag down. Then the padding on the steering wheel is simply pulled off “on itself”. I also wanted to paint the cover on the steering wheel handle, but in the process it was galvanized and it was decided to replace it in the future with a new chrome one.
Next comes the time consuming process of sanding. It took me 2-3 hours with a p1000 sandpaper. The old paint is completely removed.
After carefully degrease parts, and apply the thinnest first layer of plastic primer ( primer) to create a “risk. Then wait 5-7 minutes and apply a second denser layer. After 15 minutes we apply the first layer of matte paint very thinly, again to create “risk”. Then there are 2 more layers of matte paint at intervals of 10-12 minutes until complete coverage.
After that, I left the parts to dry for 24 hours. Next took Scotch Brite, and corrected the defects that have arisen during the painting, i.e. dust particles. Then again we need to degrease parts and slowly begin the process of applying paint. The first layer just barely, the second in 5 minutes a little bit more abundant, and then at intervals of 10-15 minutes we put on another 6 coats of varnish until complete coverage.
There was a lot of information on the Internet about how long the varnish dries, but I have nowhere to hurry, so the parts lay at home in the heat for a week. Next, using water and sandpaper p2000 are corrected flaws in the form of dust, and unsuccessful splashes from the spray gun, the surface becomes absolutely smooth. After that we take a polish, the finest finish, so-called Antigologram, we put a nozzle for polishing into a screwdriver, wet a polishing sponge in water, wring it out, put it on a nozzle and slowly start polishing. Polish until you achieve a mirror shine. I do not recommend using a drill, as there is a chance to burn the lacquer layer.
After polishing parts wash in warm water with soap and water from the remains of dirt and install in the reverse order.
That’s all, you just have to keep in the pockets of the door with a dry microfiber, which should regularly wipe parts from dust and fingerprints. Happy with the result!
Black royal lacquer, paint the plastic.
In general, the idea of getting rid of gray plastic and aluminum. Started to explore what other options interior installed on hybrids … and actually)))) nothing interesting and that did not put. except aluminum and wood. and absolutely accidentally stumbled upon a light interior with black painted inserts really put them only on the light interior and like not so much and such cars.
I liked the idea, especially as it would be))) stock, and the black interior should look cooler than the light!
Order the plates, the idea fell away immediately … the timing is not real, prices are not real and still have to izgalyat to order this miracle.
Who have similar thoughts with film or aqua-printing. I tell you right away FORGET! if you need a mirror or any kind of gloss. You will only be satisfied with painting with a coat of varnish. (This is not my idea, consulted with a bunch of different artists).
Went to the guys who painted my car, described what I want to get. the primary thing is a deep mirror reflection without the shagreeness and a hint of it. in short, a black mirror, and the second is of course the practicality.
Further I will describe the main difficulties and moments that will have to deal with wishing to do something similar.
Disassembly doors. removal of door cards. this you will find in techdoc. after removing, put the upholstery on any soft surface so as not to spoil in the process of work. unscrew all visible shiny screws, some of them are hidden under the felt door trim, there all easy so that twist do not worry. Next, two mounts pocket as you can see soldered to the upholstery, melted plastic, take a screwdriver with a drill bit and take your time to drill out (be careful), under soldering there are holes for screwing in screws similar to those that we unscrewed. Remove the pocket and gain access to the remaining screws that secure the lining on the door.
You can remove the hinged pockets on the front doors.
Stage 2 disassembly center console. open techdoc, those who are too lazy to drive there is information on disassembly cupholders.
1 remember or better take photos, what and how they are located in the cupholder mechanism.
2 the cupholder lid cover decorative cover after unscrewing it moves away to the side of the fixing bolts. if you start pulling it up, you will break the teeth of the hooking.
For example: along the sliding pocket on the inside there are plastic ribs, which rest against the outer wall of the console and of course they squeak and clatter on contact, solved by simply gluing these elements with modellene. pay attention to the wires, it is desirable to glue them too.
This is probably all you need to focus on.
For the covers (doors and console) was chosen paint and varnish spies hecker. varnish applied in several layers and polished. As an example for the eye took the car bentley with their deep polish and mirror reflection in the paint, the mirror should turn out similar.
Painted not only the console trim, but the rest of the plastic, as I need to later rewrap the ceiling alcantara. For other interior elements as used car paint spies hecker, but the lacquer matte … I forget which (( in short, they used to paint exterior door plastics on the Mercedes. varnish when drying is very strong and resistant.
Full crystallization varnish 2 weeks! I advise to wait to accidentally scrape.
We paint the plastic in black mat.
In general, nothing super new I have not invented or made. But maybe it will be useful for someone.
I decided to test my handiwork, and to paint a part of the interior plastic. For the test took the window elevator controls, and door handles of the front doors.
Paint KUDO black mat KU1102 128 rubles per can. KUDO primer for plastic KU6000 197 rubles per can. Silicone cleaner, aka degreaser KUDO KU9100 135 rubles. Sandpaper 800ka.
Worked with silicone remover, let it dry. On the balcony, arranged a branch of West Coast Castings, pasted the walls of the film for the greenhouse, plus that the balcony is heated + warm floor, put both top and bottom +27 degrees. Thanks to my daughter, for the jars of baby food
What conclusions can be drawn, sanding needs to be better, especially noticeable on the handles. But plasticine is on its way, for the sake of interest I will roll up only the handles in it, it is not expensive, but interesting. Wasn’t without fine lint, but they can be seen with a very detailed inspection. Lacquer is not covered, I want to see what happens, on the drive somewhere wrote:
We’ll see, all this is done easily, not forced, and does not require a large expenditure of money, or effort.
Note that the balcony is closed tightly and has a heating, and the room was almost no smell, but if my wife and daughter were not at my mother-in-law, I would not dare, because the smell would be another.
A special thanks to my assistants, who helped to shorten the time during the drying breaks of 15-20 minutes.
Improving the interior of the “paint the plastic in black.
After I decided on a fabric for the ceiling and put it to work, went to the store for materials to paint the interior plastics black. To be honest, before that a lot of studying this topic and watched a lot of information on this resource and YouTube, went to the “qualified professionals” that I did not inspire confidence in them to entrust the case and came to the opinion that I do it myself, but for that I need: must primer for plastic, which provides good adhesion for the paint, also need a good degreaser, which not only degreases but also removes all kinds of silicone residue from the treated surfaces, still need of course the paint well and actually desire and opportunities))))), which I have, at the beginning of this epic, was at least abound! ))).
So, actually, armed with everything you need for these dirty and smelly business, namely three kinds of black matte paint: 1) Emalia Universalna, 2) Effect, 3) Kudo, plastic adhesion primer “CarRep”, degreaser “APP” and a few things and went to my place of production.
To try out took my one lamp from the showroom, as in our cars, at least in mine, two identical lamps in shape but one which is in the trunk of a black color and another which is light in the cabin, so I took the light and so the light one, as instead of him, I prudently ordered another one, the same, only black spotlight, as in the trunk, at the dismantling of that at least something is not paint and that was as they say “plant”!
After I practiced on the lamp, took three identical parts, namely caps from ceiling handles to check them for different colors and the same material and actually, the first test on the plugs from the ceiling handles, showed this is the result:
The third option, which I liked best, how the paint lay and how it looked overall, would ooooze well with the first ceiling fabric material, which I gave up on because it was more gray.
Polishing the glossy interior plastic…Royal Lacquer is evil.)
I think that every owner of MAZDA CX-5 deep down inside wishes a long and painful death to the designer, abundantly stuffed the interior of our car with glossy elements – a la royal lacquer…)). Scratches on them appear from air, from a glance, from a thought.)) And if you touch them, God forbid, with something – that’s all, scratches as deep as a trench.)) One year of use – and the plastic elements look as if the car has been in the carshare for 10 years…))
This fact really depressed me and I started looking for a way to combat this scourge. Many people do not care and ride like that, some people when buying immediately tighten the glossy plastic in a polyurethane film, some people buy different plastic covers on Ali and cover problem areas with them. I decided to try to polish them with something. But, available for sale in car dealers polishes were either absolutely useless, or made even worse).
And then I miraculously came across on the pages of DRIVE2 on the board log of an audio engineer, who used to polish the glossy plastic line of polishing means for musical instruments D’Addario PL-01 and PL-02. The first product is a fine abrasive with a cleaning effect, and the second is a protective wax. There is also a third product in their line – D’Addario PL-03, which is necessary just to support the shine, but I have already had enough of such products, so I didn’t order it). In Ukraine, many stores sell these products – from Rozetka to specialized music stores. They cost an average of 220-250 UAH each (
8-9$). I personally ordered them online at monkeymusic.com.ua/ along with a rag for polishing. The entire order with delivery came out 575 UAH (
So, I received the miracle product the next day at the New Post Office and immediately started polishing. It’s very simple – first, the first product is applied in a circular motion, then it dries and is wiped off in the same circular motion. After that, the second agent is applied and wiped off in the same way. That is all. The process is over.) It is important to use the cloth as gently as possible and to rub it in without fanaticism – light movements… I rate the result as 4 out of 5. Deep scratches, unfortunately, are not removed, but become much less noticeable. The fine cobwebs of scratches are completely gone. Pictures before and after are attached: