Do-it-yourself replacement of front and rear brake pads on a Jetta 6 1.4 TSI
Drove 73,000 miles and the native pads came on squeaking. Bought Remsa pads for the rear axle at a price of about 1200 rubles per set, like this:
Front because I was in a hurry did not take a picture.
To replace the front pads need: a jack, a wheel wrench, Torx T45
Screwdriver on the minus and about 30 minutes of free time. The work can be done in the open air.
1. Put the car on the handbrake, turn the steering wheel all the way to the side with which you want to change the pads, loosen the bolts fixing the wheel, jack the car and remove the wheel.
See the brake disc and caliper.
2. 2. Remove the mud caps.
Unscrew the caliper guide bolts with a Torx T45.
4. Remove the bracket by prying it with a screwdriver.
5. Take out the old pads by unplugging the connector to the brake pad wear sensor (located on the front left wheel).
My wire was torn from the pad, probably because of this on the dashboard indication of pad wear was not lit.
Unscrew the cap cylinder head, remove the caliper and squeeze the piston into the cylinder, you can squeeze anything, the main thing is not to damage the dust cover.
6. After that insert the new pads and reassemble in the reverse order.
Replacing the rear brake pads. Need: a jack, a wheel wrench, two open-ended wrench on 13 and 17 in my opinion, bearing puller (was bought for 170 rubles) to squeeze the piston and lock ring puller for turning the piston (bought for 115 rubles), 40 minutes of free time.
Loosen the bolts fastening the wheel, put wooden shoes under the front wheels of the car, lift the car jack and remove the wheel.
2. 2. Hold the guides with a wrench for 17 and unscrew the bolts with a wrench for 13.
Pull the caliper to the side.
Remove the old pads.
4. Take a puller, set it against the piston and screw the bolt that begins to press on the piston (the piston does not sink in), then take a puller for circlips, the ends of which we put into the recesses of the piston and turn the piston clockwise.
After this procedure, the piston begins to sink in, tighten the extractor so it presses the piston and twist further, I made about 2 revolutions after that the piston began to sink in during twisting without pressure. It took about 2 minutes to push the piston in.
5. 5. After we pushed the piston in, we put the new pads in.
6. Assemble everything in reverse order, using the new bolts that came with the pads.
8. Before you start driving you need to put some pressure on the brake pedal.
Thank you all for your attention! I hope this info will be helpful.
Parts
Volkswagen Jetta 2012, 122 hp – with my own hands
Up for sale
Volkswagen Jetta, 2011
Volkswagen Jetta, 2011
Volkswagen Jetta, 2015
Volkswagen Jetta, 2014
Comments 52
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Where did you buy the bearing puller?
Didn’t remove the hub bearing
Hi, do you know if I have to let go of the handbrake when replacing the rear pads?
Hi, do you know if I have to let go of the handbrake when replacing the rear pads?
i tried to drive the pistons in with the handbrake on failed. had to take them off the handbrake
Do you have a VW JETTA 6 guide sleeve in nature? I found one on the Jetta 5. It’s a 15. And the sixth has a 17 wrench.
Bought the front Remsa, what do you think? How are the pads? Why didn’t you put Remsa on the front?
They’re good on the front, too, but they’re a little stiffer than the original.
Thanks. I got REMSA on the front too. The reviews say they dust, so they don’t really sharpen the brake discs. The original ones are dusty too. So it’s ok.
I put ATE in the front, no problems, and put Ferodo in the back. I had to grind the lugs with a file. I had to grind the lugs with a file.
What’s the point of scrolling the rear piston to push it in? I don’t get it. I couldn’t push it in, then while I was turning it went inside without pushing, and on the other hand I put it in as I took it off. I dismantled it to grease the guides!
The point is that there is probably a thread inside, so you need to twist it.
Will it unscrew itself to the proper amount of pressure?
Kapitanblak
The point is that there is probably a thread inside, so you need to twist it.
There is no thread there. You don’t need a wire puller. You just need a pair of pliers with a bent nose. There is a notch in the piston as if you imagine a coil of spring stretched out. On many cars there is also a ledge on one of the pads that must be aligned with one of the places where you put the pliers for screwing. and not just tighten all the way. otherwise when you first pump the pedal it will twist and shift and will be a bit on the skew.
Changing the pads on the VW Jetta
On any vehicle, one of the important technical components is the brake system. It ensures the safety of the driver and passengers on the road, and is also involved in driving the car. It is very important to monitor its condition and if it is necessary to replace the brake pads on the Volkswagen Jetta, it should be carried out in a timely manner.
In order not to spend extra money, you can perform the entire procedure yourself. Next, we will consider a description of all the actions for the front stops. We will also give detailed instructions on how to replace the rear pads on the VW Jetta, with disc and drum brakes.
Front pads: removal and installation
To remove the front brake stops, you’ll need a sprocket or hex wrench, a screwdriver to remove the plugs, and a crowbar to unclamp the calipers. To ensure that replacing your Volkswagen Jetta front pads goes flawlessly, follow the following instructions :
- Remove the front wheel;
- Remove the plugs, using a screwdriver, unscrew the guides of the calipers;
- gently pull the caliper with the stops up and sideways;
- unclamp the calipers with a crowbar, without removing the old front stops and only then they can be removed, after which it is necessary to lubricate and clean the guides;
- Put the new parts and install the wheel back.
Removing rear stops in disc brakes
First, choose the most appropriate tool for the job. Replacing the rear pads on the Jetta will require a 13mm or 19mm wrench. Once you have selected the tool, begin the work in this sequence:
- unscrew the rear wheel;
- Remove only the caliper, with its bracket remaining in place;
- To remove it, you must use two wrenches at the same time: one wrench (19) to hold the square-shaped bolt and the other to unscrew the other;
- install the new parts;
- screw the cylinder into the caliper;
- to screw the cylinder, take a helper with you, as you need to simultaneously screw and press on it;
- Once you have screwed the cylinder in, put the rear wheel back on.
Removing the rear stops in the VW Jetta drum brakes
In order to remove the worn parts of the braking system of the Volkswagen Jetta car and put new ones, you will need about the same set of tools as in the previous description. Next, in order to change the pads on the drum brakes Jetta, you need to:
- determine their original thickness by lifting the car (the normal figure is 7.5 mm and not acceptable figure of 5 mm);
- then remove the drum by unscrewing one bolt;
- push back the pressure spring plate with pliers and remove it;
- then unhook the adjusting key spring, remove the parts that have already worn out from the pistons in the cylinder, disconnect the “handbrake” cable;
- disconnect the lower and upper return springs and the support spring from the pressure rod;
- install the new spare part on the pressure rod, then insert the lever of the rear spare part into its hole;
- connect the upper return spring;
- attach the brake lever.
Thus, we have provided an overview of all possible options for removing brake parts in the Volkswagen Jetta. Following the simple recommendations, the procedure will be a fun activity for novice car owners, as well as a good help for those who have already repeatedly performed maintenance of this system VW Jetta itself.
1 Comment
Recently changed the rear pads on the Jetta. Took about 15 minutes. I had a gas wrench and a crowbar at hand. All the same unscrewed the brake socket took out the old pads, well there will need the help of the second man to the one who holds the socket holding it in place on the brake disk, the second twists the cylinder and presses on it fitnokoy having moved into the socket. That’s the easy way.