Replacement of spark plugs Polo Sedan
On the Polo Sedan is a gasoline engine 1.6 liter with a capacity of 105 hp. For the proper functioning of all systems, it is necessary to monitor the technical condition of your car. In preparation for periodic maintenance, replacement of plugs on the Volkswagen Polo Sedan is shown.
When it is necessary to change the plugs on the Polo Sedan
According to the maintenance instructions of this car, change the plugs after every 60000 km .
The installation of plugs with platinum or iridium coating allows you to extend this service life. Also during the replacement it is mandatory to check the ignition system components, such as: ignition coils, spark plug lugs and coil fuses for serviceability.
Checking spark plugs requires a visual inspection for soot (the color of soot can tell a lot), oil stains and of course, the gap.
Tips for replacing spark plugs on the Polo Sedan
After removing the ignition coils, in order to avoid dust and dirt in the cylinder block, it is necessary to blow compressed air into the spark plug wells.
Unscrew the plugs from the spark plug wells with the utmost care so as not to tear the threads.
When checking the plugs, if the gap between the electrodes is less or more than 1.0-1.1, it is necessary to carry out its adjustment to the specified values by bending the electrode.
Adjustment should be made by bending only the side electrode without touching the center electrode. Any bending of the central electrode will lead to a violation of the insulation of the spark plug, and as a consequence, its failure.
We recommend applying lubricating paste G 052141 A2 to the ignition coils when installing new plugs. The use of this paste prevents both the “sticking” of the spark plug to the ignition coil lug and its threads.
Needed tools and materials for replacing plugs
A complete list of what is needed for the job:
- flat screwdriver;
- wrench for 16 mm plugs;
- torque wrench;
- a brush to clean the plugs;
- spark plug set.
Replacement part catalog numbers:
Original spark plugs for Volkswagen Polo Sedan: “Longlife” spark plug from NGK VAG101905617C art. 101905617C and Bosch VAG101905601F ref. 101905601F for the price of 375 rubles per 1 pc.
Their analogs are produced by Denso spark plug Nickel art. KJ20DRM11 – cost 190 rubles/piece; from NGK – 5960 for 200 rubles apiece.
Paste lubrication VAG art. G052141A2 – the price of 1600 rubles for 20 grams of tube, which will be enough for a long time.
The price of parts is current for summer 2017 for Moscow and the region.
Proceed to the replacement of the candles, according to the regulations this procedure should be carried out every 60 thousand kilometers of mileage. The first thing we take off the plastic decorative protection.
After removing the cover, we get to the coils.
Take a screwdriver, one by one pick up the coils and lift them, so that they come out from the spark plug wells.
The last spark plug can’t be taken out just like that, you should disconnect the power plug.
Take the sixteenth spark plug head, put it on the wrench.
Now unscrew the plugs one by one.
Take the old spark plug out of the key, put in the new one and screw it in.
Finished with the plugs, put everything back together, in particular, put the coils in their places.
Service-6, change of spark plugs…
The next 10 000 km has flown by and it is time for Polinka to change the oil and do some routine work, including change of spark plugs. Mileage of the car is already considerable, so I decided to “wash” the engine with Liqui Moly cleaners.
Consumables ordered on Exist.ru: 1. Motor oil Liqui Moly Synthoil High Tech 5W40 4 liters (art. item 1915) – 2970 rubles, 2. drain plug (item N 908 132 02) – 70 rubles, 3. the oil filter MANN (item W712/94) – 420 rubles, 4. The air filter MANN (art. item C3880) – 600 rubles; 5. Cabin charcoal filter MANN (art. item CUK26010) – 560 rubles; 6. Spark plug Denso Iridium Power (art. IK20TT) 4 pcs. – 2100 rubles; 7. Lubricant dielectric Permatex (art. 81150) – 190 rubles; 8. Liqui Moly Oil-Schlamm-Spulung (art. 1990) – 550 rubles; 9. Soft cleaner Liqui Moly Injection Clean Light (art. 7529) – 320 rubles; 10. Valve cleaner Liqui Moly Ventil Sauber (art. 1989) – 400 rubles. 11. Long-term injector cleaner Liqui Moly Langzeit Injection Reiniger (art. 7568) – 400 rubles.
From the tool Emex.ru ordered: Socket head Kraft, 1/2″ deep plug with a magnet 16 mm (art. KT700801) – 230 rubles.
For the first time I decided to check the authenticity of the oil filter for the presence of ultraviolet light markings, that I did not live quietly. It turned out that there are two of them: one on the top spherical surface and the other on the side surface.
And the dates and numbers of these marks are different, so I was a little worried. Then I checked the original filter, which I installed at the last service, and it also had two marks with different data, apparently so it should be.
I flushed the engine before changing the oil with three products from Liqui Moly. Cleaners used in the following order: first rolled out a tank of gasoline with the valve cleaner, then a tank of clean gasoline, and then a tank of gasoline with a mild injector cleaner (this order was advised by experts from the official site of the manufacturer). After that, 180 km before the TO, I poured an oil wash from oil sludge in the oil.
In this article I will not pay attention to oil and filters replacement, as I have described everything in details last time on TO-5.
But I will tell about change of spark plugs in details. The first nuance – change of plugs is carried out on the COLD MOTOR!
To begin with, remove the plastic cover of the engine (unfasten the two fasteners in front) and a good blow everything with air, I used a compressor for this.
To remove the ignition coil without a special tool is difficult enough, they are very tightly seated in the wells. You can order such a puller (VW art. no. T10094A or AutoDelo art. no. 40448), or you can make it yourself. I decided to bake a puller from available means, the drawing of the puller was taken in vostsash’s blog.
Carefully with a small screwdriver unhook catches of wires and pull the coils out of the wells. The 1, 2 and 3 cylinder coils can be pulled out without disconnecting the connectors. The 4th cylinder coil should be slowly pulled out as far as the wires allow, press the retainer and pull the connector from the coil.
Then use a magnetic spark plug head to unscrew all the plugs one by one.
The first and only time the plugs were changed at TO-2, then were installed Denso Iridium Tough. Condition of the plugs for mileage of 45 thousand miles I think is quite decent. This time I decided to put plugs Denso Iridium Power.
The new Iridium Power spark plugs are slightly shorter (about 3mm) compared to the Iridium Tough.
Originally I wanted to use a ceramic paste Liqui Moly Keramik-Paste to apply to the threads of the plugs as a release material. But after studying the recommendations of the candle manufacturer, I gave up on this idea. If the threads are coated with thick grease, tightening to the recommended torque will result in overtightening; this is due to grease leaking out. The second nuance is DO NOT USE thread lubricant!
Most spark plug failures are due to improper torque. If it is too low, compression loss and overheating will occur. The insulator or middle electrode can also break due to vibration. If the torque is too high, the spark plug can tear off. The housing can also expand or deform. Heat dissipation zones are compromised, which can lead to overheating and melting of the electrodes, up to and including engine failure.
The manufacturer recommends a tightening torque of 20…25 Nm for our plugs. Install new plugs and tighten them with 25 Nm torque (as specified in the service book).
When tightening new plugs you can do without a torque wrench: first screw in the plug “by hand” up to the stop, and then tighten it with a spark plug wrench for 1/2 … 2/3 turn.
It’s good when you change the plugs by yourself and know with what force you tighten them. But what about when you took the car to the service and then want to know if you got the spark plugs tightened correctly? So I had a desire to find out whether OD set the spark plugs at PM-2. I started searching for information on the Internet and it turns out it is pretty easy to determine – the degree of deformation of the gasket on the flange of the plug. The thickness of the gasket of a new Denso spark plug is about 1,9 … 2,0 mm, with the correct tightening torque of 25 Nm the thickness of the gasket will be about 1,6 mm. Accordingly, if the thickness of the gasket will be, for example, 1.2 mm, it means that during installation the plug was overtightened, and vice versa. Measurements of the thickness of the gaskets of my departed candles showed 1.5 mm on each of the plugs, if they were over tightened, I consider it insignificant.
Before installing the ignition coil, it is recommended to apply dielectric grease to the rubber tip, otherwise the next time you replace the plugs these tips can come off, sticking to the insulator of the plug. I personally used Permatex grease and applied it to both the end of the tip and the inside of the tip. Also, I met the information that for this purpose used Liqui Moly Batterie-Pol-Fett, but I want to warn you – this grease is not suitable for tip protection, because quickly enough at high temperatures flows from the insulator in the candle wells and burns out.
Then we lubricate the coil sealing rubbers with silicone, which seals the spark plug wells, to simplify the installation and subsequent removal of the ignition coils. Put the coils in place and connect the connectors.
Snap the plastic engine cover and consider this to be the end of the service. I also decided to start pouring a long lasting injector cleaner into the tank with each refueling, and we’ll see what changes.
