Volkswagen Polo engine pads
The engine cushion is a mounting support that fixes the motor in the correct position and provides statics during operation. This structural element prevents the spread of engine vibration around the perimeter of the underhood space and provides cushioning.
The most common option is the installation of solid rubber cushions, which provide complete vibration absorption and securely fix the engine. The rubber cushion is the best option between price and quality, but has a low service life.
The option of a rubber product on a metal support increases the life of the part and provides a tighter fit, but with heavy use, the rubber can come off the support, causing engine grinding and shifting.
|Product name||Country of manufacturer||Material||Part No.||Fitting side||Approximate price, rubles per piece|
|MEYLE||Italy||Rubber-metal||100 121 1071||Front||80|
|FORTUNE LINE||Germany||Rubber-metal||FZ9936||Rear axle||100|
|JP GROUP||Germany||Rubber||1117901100||Rear axle||110|
Important to know! When selecting pads for the engine, you should consider the technical parameters of your vehicle and not the brand of the car in general. Equipment, number and type of mountings, as well as the location of cushions may slightly differ on vehicles of different generations of manufacture and with different body types.
In order to select the right model of the part, it is recommended to select the parts by compatibility with the VIN number of the vehicle or by checking the catalog number of the part for details on the official website of Volkswagen.
How to check engine mounts for wear or change pillows in time
Regular diagnostics of engine mounts condition will allow you to consider the level of wear of rubber seals and timely replace the components. Neglecting diagnostics leads to loosening of engine in underhood space, and in neglected cases it can become the reason of engine blow against a car body.
In order to check support integrity it is necessary to open the hood and put it on a stop, then get in the car and start the engine. The handbrake should be tightened to the maximum position beforehand. Then it is necessary to try to move forward and then backward with the handbrake installed.
To facilitate testing, you can involve another person who will monitor the position of the engine. If you hear the motor thump, squeal or feel vibrations from the underhood – you must change the cushions.
Pay attention! The average service life of airbags on Volkswagen Polo is 100 000 km. When approaching each hundred it is recommended to monitor the condition of parts more often, in order to prevent the engine from tearing off its supports. It is also important to consider the intensity of use of the vehicle and the type of road surface, which can accelerate the wear of parts.
Step-by-step instruction: changing pillows with your own hands
Replacing the pads of the right and left supports is different due to the difference in the attachment of the components.
The whole procedure takes from 3-4 hours and can be done with one pair of hands, from the tools you will need a jack, a standard set of wrenches and screwdrivers. The procedure is best carried out on the inspection frame.
The stage of preparatory works for disassembly of pads is as follows:
- Before replacing it is necessary to put the car on the parking brake and set the chocks under the rear wheels.
- Further we lift the front end of the car with a jack and install chocks under the front wheels of the vehicle, as well as put a bar or plank under the engine, so the engine will not settle in the process of repair.
- Then you need to unscrew the fixing bolts that hold the engine and remove the mounting bracket, and then disconnect the engine from the gearbox. Now you can proceed to replacing the pads.
To replace the left support consumables, you will have to remove the battery and the battery shelf, and then unscrew the left cushion fasteners from the engine spar and the part can be taken out for replacement. To dismantle the right cushion it is necessary to remove fixing bracket of engine and also unscrew the part from side members.
Now the pads can be replaced with new ones, after which the reassembly procedure is done in the reverse order. Particular attention should be paid to the process of docking the engine with the gearbox.
The process of replacing the pads should be done in a warm room, protected from drafts. Also keep in mind that the older the pads, the more difficult the replacement procedure will be, which is due to the increased rigidity of the rubber.
Fotoreport Repair of front and rear engine mounts of Volkswagen Polo (fits for Caddy, Golf and Vento)
Recently decided to change the front support, well, it was too easy to pull the engine back with my hands (I noticed when I was pushing the car against the engine). After listening to the smart people thought that the support is “torn”, actually slightly lifted the engine with his hand at the front stop. I unscrewed the upper bolt (head to 16) and the lower (hex to and removed the support not quite technological method: I passed a rope under the front stop
tied it on a knot at the level of the valve cover, put a crowbar through this ring and leaned a wooden bar against the engine
At the other end of the crowbar (it was a good lever) the neighbor lifted the engine and I took out the support and put a wooden block instead of it. After having inspected the removed cushion I have not found any damages: a detail 1H0 199 611 (washed with gasoline from the “damp” rubber, probably from oil and temperature occurred devulcanization)
part 1H0 199 623 like the dust cap
part 1H0 199 619 B
and parts 1H0 199 621 and 1H0 199 625 with bolts.
So I measured the height of the rubber (was 85mm) and here on the site polzashol article with a description of the same but new (90mm). rubber itself is in good condition and no desire to change it (especially given the possibility to get a custom through zhozhkuyu tough fake like one soot). I took a piece of 5mm thick conveyor belt and with the help of a sharpened piece of pipe with diameter of 34mm
cut a 30mm hole in it (to the end of the wooden bar).
Having lifted up the engine (the jack was put under fastening of the front support to the engine) I measured diameter of a landing place of the support
Has cut out from cardboard a circle in diameter of 78mm, and having tried on to this place, has cut out the same aperture, as in a piece of a tape (30mm), has combined these two apertures,
encircled a pencil cardboard and on this contour cut out a circle from the tape with a knife
the turned out washer with a diameter of 78mm and with a hole 30mm put in a landing place of the support
assemble all the parts
and installed everything in its place.
So, when I lowered the engine (and it slightly compressed the support) and began to tighten the lower bolt with an Allen key, the bolt was completely tightened just before the compression of the rubber (that is, part 1H0 199 625 was bumped in the part 1H0 199 611 and putting this washer I removed the play of 5 mm). After a week it was decided to check the rear right pole (while the crankcase protection was removed).
Given the proximity of the starter terminal and “just in case”, disconnected the plus battery terminal.Disconnected the breather hose from the air filter housing and removed it.Vedeshkom flashed three screws screwed cushion mount (two on 13 and one on 16). I put a stack of planks under the crankcase for insurance. I had no desire to load the jack to the engine tray, but I couldn’t do it any other way, so I used the same not quite technological method: I put a rope under the rear engine stop, tied it just above the throttle level, put the crowbar through the bar, put it on the amortizer stop ring, the assistant lifted the back part of the engine as a lever (before you lift it, make sure that the rope didn’t rest on anything)
I took out the rear support
and temporarily put a wooden bar in its place
The only difference between the rear support from the front, it is a part with the number 1H0 199 176
The other parts are the same: 1H0 199 625, 1H0 199 611
1H0 199 623, 1H0 199 621
and of course, the “old acquaintance” 1H0 199 619 B
IMPORTANT: before you unscrew the support, it is necessary for the detail 1H0 199 176 to apply a mark alignment of the “tendons” part 1H0 199 611, as then during the assembly and installation in place will be difficult to guess that the tendons part 1H0 199 611 got into the slot rear stop engine, and the holes on the sides of the details 1H0 199 176 were opposite respectively holes with threads for bolts (in assembled form check the problem). By the way, unscrewed in the following way: screwed the native bolt to the top of the support adjustable wrench (what came to hand, could be a ring spanner) and put it so that “tendons” rested on the key
Well hex 8 with a pipe unscrewed the lower bolt (in the photo upside down).
Detail 1H0 199 176 long cleaned from the compressed brown dust (as with pads or clutch).
But the “old acquaintance” 1H0 199 619 B looked tired, though not torn and still good spring. I measured the height and it was 80mm (the front one was 85mm), again with the new one being 90mm high. So as not to guess how many washers to put under and taking into account difficulty of control of a rear support (and working conditions it has more difficult), I decided to put here a rubber from a front support with one washer, and on its place to install a rubber from the rear. I assembled the rear support, put a piece of 80 mm long pipe (the diameter can be from 40 mm to 70 mm) instead of the rubber 1H0 199 619 B, and installed at the place of the rubber, tightened the bolts. To replace the rubber in the front support, I did not bother with a jack, firstly, instead of the rear support was a “crutch”, and secondly, the time was pressing. I unscrewed on the front support the top bolt for 16 and the bottom under the Allen key for 8 and using all the same method lifted the front of the motor and took out the front support, replaced the rubber band in it and added another washer (made in advance a couple of the above method on the same piece of cardboard). Screwed the bolts back on. I took off the back support in the same way again and put a bar in its place. Disassembled it, threw out a piece of pipe and put one washer in the part 1H0 199 176
I assembled the rear support (using the adjustable wrench for the wrong purpose), and installed it in place, but because of the lack of alignment marks I had to take it out and unscrew it a couple of times. Then finally tightened the top 16 bolts on the rear and front supports.
The rubber, which I put in the front bracket even though it was 80 mm high, but the two washers (5 mm + 5mm) for it was too much, when I tightened the lower bolt with an Allen 8, it was tight, as if squeezing the rubber and the engine stood very stiff (like a rock hard). Therefore, one washer I still took out (with one hexagon is easy to tighten the lower bolt to the end). By the way, when I started the engine with two washers in the front window, it did not move, and when I started it with one, it just twitched. In short, I am satisfied with the result.