Replacement of the rear pads on Tiguan. Instruction.
Another example of excellent work Offialov: I was in two times at the two OD in Moscow – Germanika and Avtoganza, both times asked to check the pads for replacement and both times I was officially informed that the change is not necessary. Here’s a picture of what they think doesn’t need to be changed:
The left inner pad was worn down to the metal, the rivets and the disc near the rivets were worn off… My own fault, I believed the OD.
I couldn’t find any detailed info on replacement of the inner pads, after searching a couple of forums, wiki and drive. Maybe I did not look so good, but I better write it myself.
So, you will need 1) Replacement pads. I took the analogue of the original TRW GDB 1763? as they were in stock in the office of Exist. By the way the original Tiguan pads are also TGW:
The box comes with replacement bolts with thread locker and guide springs that the pads walk on.
2) Vasya the diagnostician, VCDS, or a buddy with that device to unlock the electronic handbrake. Theoretically, you can put it in service mode at the comrade, go to the country house/garage to change the pads and return to the comrade to engage the handbrake. 3) unusual tool: – wrench on 13 (or adjustable) – wrench on 15 (or a pedal for a bike, or adjustable with narrow jaws, I had sharpened their adjustable, about 4 mm is required, no more) – Special razdvilalka for the cylinder. I do not have, unclamped usual clamp, very uncomfortable. Better to buy. For example the cheapest here
You do not need a pit for the work, even a regular jack will do. With this clear instruction (hopefully) and all these tools on one side after removing the wheel takes 5-10 minutes. If with perverts, you can spend 2 hours.
Procedure: 1) We put the car on a flat place in gear. Not on a handbrake. Place something under the wheels, on the opposite side from the serviced wheel. 2) Put the handbrake in the service position (took from tiguan-club.ru, thanks to oleg3110_78 for the second time, and he took from the Passat club): “Connect the computer, turn the ignition on, turn off the handbrake key (remove the handbrake if it is on the handbrake), run VDSC, go to the 53 block (53 – Parking Brake), select the Basic Settings (Basic Settings – 04), enter Group 007 (Group 007) and right at the top pressed to execute. A few seconds you hear from the rear caliper sounds motor that divorce pads. I would add that in the basic functions of the 53 unit already have 3 standard actions, which just need to select. Right now “Set pads to service position”. With this, the motor slightly expands the cylinder stops by rotating. I did this with the caliper already removed, this does not seem right to me. 3) Loosen the wheel screws, lift the car, unscrew the wheel completely and remove it. 4) You can inspect the pads for wear through the window:
It is not very clear, here the inner pad is worn down to 1mm (right) and the outer pad to 4mm (left)
5) Holding the 15 nut on the caliper, unscrew the 13 bolts on the inside of the brake mechanism.
6) Carefully extend the caliper bracket with the cylinder. Do not pull the brake hose and handbrake wire.
You can arrange the caliper on the suspension arm, some recommend hanging it on a wire.
7) Remove the old pads away from the disc and guide springs from the slots with a screwdriver.
Carefully check the guides where the caliper screws go in. They should go easily both ways across the disk and back into the middle by themselves. Check the dusters for damage.
Install the new springs first until they are fully seated:
Make sure the springs don’t touch the disc. Yes, I KO, but they can sit so wrong.
After actually sliding the new pads in from the outside to the disc. They should slide on the springs almost freely, without effort.
9) Carefully and elegantly move the brake cylinder with a special device. Or use a clamp as I did:
Some extend with a crowbar, but this requires some way to fix the caliper.
10) Put the caliper with the extended cylinder in place and fix it with NEW bolts with thread locker (looks like solid grease).
11) Put the wheel on its place, fix the bolts, lower from the jack, turn the bolts to the normal force. For secrecy – without fanaticism.
12) Repeat steps 3-11 for the second rear wheel. Do not forget to put the stops under the wheels on the other side. 13) Return the handbrake functionality. From the same source: After the replacement in the same 53 unit in the Basic settings enter group 006 and press GO. And finally, in the same 53 block in the Basic settings go to the group 010 (this adaptation pads). 10-30 seconds they behind puff, work, then calm down.
The work is done, you just saved 5000 p, that’s how much they are not shy to ask you favorite officials.
p.s. most sensible instructions which I did myself – was in the box with the pads. Check it out for yourself, and I took a picture just in case:
VW Tiguan Rear Brake Pad Selection and Replacement
Both the selection and replacement of rear brake pads on the 2G Tiguan — these are quite responsible activities, as not only the life of the driver, but also the lives of his closest people directly depend on the flawless operation of the brake system.
As for when the pads should be replaced, there are two, or rather three options for getting the answer to this question:
- By using the pad wear gauge.
- Using the speedometer reading. The manufacturer recommends changing them every 50-60 thousand miles.
- With the help of diagnostic manipulations in the course of service at an official dealer.
Our brother, the Russian motorist is not used to trust any gauges and diagnostics, and in full accordance with the national peculiarities of car usage in Russian conditions, at every opportunity, for example, when changing a tire or when having puncture in the tire fitting shop, with the wheels taken off, he now and then tries on the thickness of pads, looking into the bowels of the caliper.
And if their thickness reaches 3 millimeters of parameters (although the allowable parameter is 2 millimeters thick, but do you need to take the risk), they must be urgently replaced.
What kind of rear pads to get?
When it comes to safety, you do not need to think about saving money when choosing what to take the rear pads – original or non-original. Obviously, it is best to buy the original pads, despite the fact that they are expected to be more expensive than analogues.
However, you should keep in mind that among the original pads, there are those that are, shall we say, listed among the responsible auto mechanics, as well as those pads that they are considered to be not entirely reliable.
The most correct choice of rear pads is by VIN code you should choose the article numbers of the native components. With regard to specific manufacturers of consumables for the brakes, the German concern seems not to have its own facilities for the production of pads, but for many of its cars, including the Tiguan, it buys brake kits from such well-known concern for the production of spare parts and various components for automobile equipment as TRW Automotive.
In this case, these concerns have such close economic and integration relations that many components, including brake consumables, produced by TRW enter the market under such brand name as VAG.
As an example, we present the article number of the original brake pads, and also just in case – the rear brake disk with the approximate budget for their replacement, together with the work of car mechanics:
|Brake pad set||1||3Q0 698 451 D||2700||3000|
|Rear axle brake disc set||2||3Q0 615 601 A||2950||5900|
|Total cost of disassembly and assembly||2000|
|Total together with consumables||91 10|
The cost of replacement includes the approximate cost of spare parts of the top brands producing brake systems ( TRW , ), as well as the cost of work.
It would be wrong to ignore the manufacturers of analog parts for braking systems. Especially since the choice is more diverse, and the prices, on the contrary, less than the original kits. These are the manufacturers, including rear brake pads for Tiguan, as already mentioned above ATE and Brembo, as well as Bosh and Remsa, including here and FENOX. Thus their production is quite competitive in the market, has no complaints, quite reliable brakes and is not a source of annoying squeaks.
Step by step replacement of the rear brake pads
We present the log of manipulations of replacement of rear brake pads, where were taken analog pads from TRW brand, namely GDB 1763.
In addition to the pads, the kit includes replacement bolts with threaded retainers, as well as supporting springs.
At the same time in the box were found extremely useful diagrams on how to replace the brake consumables yourself:
And, of course, the author of this newsreel was lucky that his garage neighbor – Fedya the diagnostician, who has a special device for unlocking the handbrake, and also that he had a clamp, which was used for dismantling of pads.
As for the procedure itself, that is:
That said, after the pads were replaced, Fedya was called in, who entered code number 006 (just like the number of a famous movie agent) in block number 53 and pressed GO. After which a grunt was heard in the calipers from behind. In fact, it was the cylinders compressing and releasing the pads.
When the grumbling subsided Fedya in the same block 53 went into 010 or the option to adapt the pads. The grunting was heard from behind again for half a minute and there was silence. Fedya nodded that everything was okay and turned the ignition off after exiting unit 53.
In the end, the replacement of the rear pads was done. Savings – two thousand Russian rubles, minus the cost of a bottle of cognac, which the author of this newsreel was drunk with Fedya, his garage neighbor, and by happy coincidence – the diagnostician.