Volkswagen Polo Sedan front brake discs, replacement.

Replacing the Front Brake Disc and Brake Pads (for use on the VW Polo IV)

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Front brake discs and brake pads

Note : Brake pads should ALWAYS be replaced as a set of 4 (two per side).

Note : The following describes the removal and installation of the brake disc and brake pads on the left side. The removal and installation on the right side is done in the same way.


1. First check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir. If it is at or near the “MAX” mark, siphon off some of the fluid from the tank. Otherwise it will overflow when new pads are installed.

Loosen the wheel bolts. Lift the front of the vehicle with a jack, place it on a jack, or elevator the vehicle on an elevator. Remove the wheel bolts and remove the front wheel.

3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right or left, depending on which side you are replacing the brake disc and pads. In our case to the left. Also clean the brake mechanism from dust and dirt with a metal brush.

4. Using a flat screwdriver, pry and then remove the protective caps of the two brake caliper pins.

5. Use a 6 mm Allen key to unscrew and then remove the two guide pins from the brake caliper.

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6. Move the wheel cylinder piston as far as possible inside the cylinder. To do this, insert a screwdriver with a wide blade between the brake pad and the caliper through the hole in the caliper and rest it on the caliper, move it, thereby pushing the piston into the cylinder.

Note: While pushing the piston in, keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir.

7. Remove the brake caliper and brake pads assembly. Remove the pads and suspend the caliper using a suitable thick wire from the suspension element.

Caution : The brake caliper must be suspended from a sturdy metal wire or similar whenever it is removed from its mountings and the flexible brake hose remains connected to it. Failure to do so will cause the weight of the caliper to act on the flexible brake hose, which can damage the hose and then cause the brake fluid to leak.

8. Remove the old brake pads as waste.

9. Using a piston retracting tool or any other tool, push the piston completely into the brake caliper.

Note: While pushing the piston in, keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir.

10. Unscrew the mounting screw and remove the brake disc. Remove the disc as a scrap.

Note : If the disc is “stuck”, lightly tap it on the perimeter with a hammer to dislodge it from its seating on the hub.


Carefully remove dust, dirt and rust from the wheel hub seats, the brake pad seats on the brake caliper bracket …

… as well as the guide pins.

2. degrease the hub as well as the new brake disc. 3.

Apply some copper grease to the brake disc seating belt. This will prevent it from “sticking” to the hub in the future.

4. Install the new brake disc on the hub and secure it with a screw.

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5. Apply a special high-temperature brake grease to the brake caliper bracket in those places where the brake pads will be in contact with the bracket.

6. Also apply special high-temperature brake grease to the new brake pads in those places where they will be in contact with the brake caliper and bracket-holder.

7. Insert the outer brake pad

… and the inner brake pad onto the brake caliper.

8. Install the brake caliper and pad assembly on the bracket holder.

Caution : The surface of the brake pads and brake disc should be free of oil and paint.

9. Apply high temperature brake grease to the brake caliper guide pins.

10. 10. Insert and tighten the brake caliper pins. Install the finger protectors in place.

11. change the brake pads on the other side in the same way.

12. Install the wheel and lower the car to the ground.

13. Press down firmly on the brake pedal several times so that the brake pads are in their working position. 14.

14. Check and, if necessary, restore the brake fluid level in the expansion tank. Tighten the cap on the tank.

15. Test drive and brake several times to remove any foreign matter from the running surfaces and allow the brake pads to run in.

#1 Replacing Volkswagen Polo Sedan front brake discs and pads. LITTLE TROUBLE.

Hello! Decided to write the first post about service my car) Finally, I got the hands to do it, for the material has accumulated a lot, but I still do not sit down.

Okay, now on the merits. I was starting to worry about grinding pads on the discs, it felt like rubbing the metal against the metal. + On the highway in the heat I think I overheated the rims and clearly felt a slight vibration when braking in the steering wheel, and in general, braking performance has dropped sharply after the summer. Came in and took a look – pads are alive, disks not so good. Purchased: 1. 1. Brake disc NIBK RN1082.

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2. Front brake pads (for 1ZG caliper) NIBK PN0148W with wear sensors.

3. Brake pads rear (drum KC1 with collar) NIBK FN0554

4. Brake Pad Repair Kit VAG J0698545

5. Bolt N10648301 VAG for discs (old one is rusty)

The day began with Nikolai, who kindly agreed to activate additional features on my shelf. In the end I chose for myself: 1. Flashing the automatic transmission code from Audi TT The original was for some reason from Tiguan o_O, which I was very surprised. According to my senses the gearbox was like clockwork, much smoother in shifts, no kicking between 1-2-3. Master said that it is possible to get carried away flow rate – I’ll see how it will be, otherwise no repercussions. If not like it – I’ll put the native firmware from the Polo 9N. 2. Closure of doors when speeding above 20 km/h. 3. Disabling seatbelt alarm (I always wear my seatbelt, but I’m terribly annoyed by the sound) Unfortunately, the instantaneous flow rate, the test arrows and the remaining gasoline in the tank were not available to me function … So much for the dash from Highline …

Next, Nikolai by acquaintance offered me to change it at the service station. I did not have to ask for a long time.

The course of the work: 1. Pulled the shelf on an elevator, removed the wheel, inspection and revision of the braking system.

2. 2. We took off the axles and discs. Checked the condition of the discs.

3. we put grease from the kit on the back of the pads and scrip plates in contact area with the caliper, brushed all the rust and scale from the caliper, put copper grease and reassembled everything – here is the result) It looks much more reliable)

By the way, due to the fact that my polo in principle does not provide an electronic sensor for wear pads – we just bit it off)

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4. Got into the drum, as it turned out, it wasn’t so bad there. The pads are alive and could still walk, but walk so walk ¯_(ツ)_/¯

I suggest you buy a brake repair kit if you can afford it. The springs and studs were in good condition, but already sour and slightly eaten by rust.

5. The very same NECESSITY.

They took off the drum from the left side, and there was “YARIK! JARIC, CYLINDER POTIC”. No more than 5 ml of brake fluid squirted out, but it was enough to stick the dust from the pads to the parts of the brake mechanism. It looked very sad.

Naturally, I didn’t have TC. Decided not to change pads on this wheel and deferred until next week until a new brake cylinder came (by the way VAG puts ATE cylinder, which is 2 times cheaper than the original, so I took it)

By the way the inner shoulder with a workout was practically not and this could not but rejoice)

CONCLUSION: Went out on the Ring Road to test the new pads and disks, especially without hurrying drove about 30-40 km slowing down with light to medium intensity. I would like to say that the brakes were just AWESOME! Not quite grippy yet, but you can feel the difference from the first push. Wanted to once again express my gratitude to Nikolai and Andrew for their help and professionalism) Looks like I’m now your regular customer) That’s actually all) Soon I’ll get my thoughts and pics from the penultimate maintenance to change the oil, brake fluid, etc.. Write, will answer all questions)

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