Changing oil and filters on Volkswagen Polo Sedan
This article will describe how to change the engine oil and air filter on your own on Volkswagen Polo Sedan (2011) or Skoda Fabia.
Before changing the oil warm the engine up to working temperature. Since these cars have no sensor for the temperature of the coolant, it is advisable to make a short trip of 2-3 kilometers.
Perform oil changes conveniently on a pit or hoist, but you can do without them. We used self-made stands.
We drive the front wheels on a support, put the car on the parking brake, put chocks under the rear wheels. For insurance, we put a stump under the lever. In case the car falls, it will protect.
If you have a car equipped with regular crankcase protection, which comes as an option for 5 thousand rubles, then to change the oil will need to remove it.
Unscrew (counterclockwise) the self-tapping screws with a Torx T25 bit and a ratchet.
Unscrew (counterclockwise) M8 bolts with a head number 13 and a ratchet. There are 7 of them.
I recommend unscrewing the bolts in the front first and then the bolts in the back. This will make it easier and you won’t have to constantly hold the guard with your elbow or head.
Let’s take off the guard and put it aside.
On the pallet we find the drain hole, closed with a wrench #18. Clean it thoroughly with a rag.
Prepare a container for draining the used oil. Its volume should not be less than 4 liters. The 5-liter bottle is good. For convenience you can cut off its top part. Using a hex head #18 anticlockwise we unscrew the plug 3-4 turns. Next unscrew the plug only with your fingers, keeping your hand horizontal. Keep the oil drain container at the ready. With a quick movement of the hand pull off the plug and take your hand aside. The oil begins to drain rapidly. WARNING The oil is hot, don’t get burned!
While the oil is peacefully draining into the can, let’s replace the fine oil filter.
Before unscrewing it, carry out a number of preparations: 1. Cover the alternator with a piece of rag to prevent oil from getting inside the alternator or onto the belt. 2. Wipe the engine thoroughly around the filter, as sand particles may enter the lube system when the filter is removed and cause accelerated engine wear.
The photo illustrates why you should clean the area around the filter.
Using an oil filter chain puller, unscrew the filter (counterclockwise) by grasping it at the top.
Once the filter is unscrewed, quickly turn it over, avoiding oil spillage.
Wipe the filter seating hole with a clean cloth.
Take a new filter. Its number is 03C 115 561 D and lubricate the rubber seals with fresh engine oil.
Screw in the new oil filter with a puller. Do not use too much force!
The oil is already drained, take the new plug and screw it into the pan.
Honestly, you can use the old plug, there’s nothing wrong with that. The plug stays pretty tight even after a few unscrews.
We put the protection in its place. First, put it in the grooves in the front and then screw the bolts in the back. I recommend to tighten all bolts and self-tapping screws, center the protection and then make the final tightening.
We lower the car from the stands. Pour fresh engine oil into the oil filler neck.
The crankcase volume is about 3.8 L. So you fill three bottles without worry, and the fourth carefully, controlling the oil level by the dipstick. After you have poured 3.7 liter of oil, start the engine and let it idle for 1 minute. After that wait 5 minutes and check the oil level. If necessary bring it up to normal. The oil trace on the dipstick must be in the area marked with the dots on the dipstick. Note that the oil level does not rise immediately after the oil is filled – it drains down the cylinder head into the oil pan, which takes some time.
We used Castrol Edge Professional Longlife III 5W30, recommended for use in this type of engine. The oil is a “service” oil and is sold exclusively in 1L bottles. If you buy it in other containers you know you’re buying a fake.
Let’s replace the air filter element. To do this unscrew screws of air filter body :
. and remove the rubber hose:
Lift the cover up and remove the old filter:
The following picture appears to the curious eye:
What can be said here – the costs of domestic assembly. Negligence led to wrong installation of the throttle gasket. Theoretically, this mistake of the assemblers could have resulted in the engine sucking in streams of contaminated air, not filtered, and would be out of order. Fortunately, there were no large gaps here. We removed the bottom of the filter housing (pull up, 3 rubber latches) and corrected the gasket.
We are installing a fresh filter element.
Its order number is 036 129 620 J :
Install the top filter housing cover into the slots in the back and then lower the cover like a book cover, you will feel some resistance from the compression of the gasket:
Correct the self-tapping screws and screw them in, starting from the center:
Do not forget to put in place the removed rubber tube.
It is also very desirable to replace the cabin filter. We used a Mahle filter and also installed the filter frame (with slight modification with a hacksaw), which for some reason was originally missing. When installing the filter you should pay attention to the direction of airflow, which is marked as “Airflow”.
Sincerely, Ilya aka Corporation, 2012
If you can not find information on your car, look it up on the cars built on your platform. More than likely the repair and maintenance information will be the same for your vehicle.
Changing oil and filters as part of TO-75 on your own
Previously, pumped out through the dipstick with a special pump in the yard in the middle of the service interval to get 7-8 thousand miles per oil change.
But then, having heard the sum of 3600 rubles for Service – 75 with _my_ spare parts, _without changing of cabin filter and with a _discount_ of 20% from the dealer, I understood that it is time to do every oil change myself, in addition, there were conditions for oil change on the trestle. I decided, I will do it myself, according to the full scheme.
I already had an inspection service when they changed the silent blocks. Accordingly, I have to do: – Change the cabin filter – I myself change it once a quarter, on average, at the end of the “dirty” or “dusty” period – Change the air filter – I unscrewed some bolts, pulled out, put, corrected the rubber, screwed it in. – change oil.
There will not be a detailed photo report, but I will focus on some details and subtleties.
First, you will need: – oil specification VW 502/505 3.8 liters (4 liters) – I long ago stopped at LM Synthoil High Tech 5W-40/5W-30 – oil filter MANN-FILTER W712/94 – sump plug, non-original JP 1113800100
From the tools you need: – screwdriver for podkovypivaniya plug hole in the protection – wrench with a socket on 19 to unscrew plugs drain hole – wrench with a socket at 10 to unscrew the bolts “adult” filler neck – puller for the oil filter and adapter to 1/2 “or HEX 25 mm for him
Materials: – rags for covering alternator and belts – cloths / wipes for cleaning – special clothes – gloves – garbage bag – container for drain, as wide as possible
1. Drive up to the overpass. If possible, let cool down, for the sake of comfort.
2. Lay out tools and materials.
3. Remove the plug in the shield by hooking the edge with a screwdriver.
4. unscrew the drain plug. Note the force with which the plug moves. The first few turns nothing happens. And at the end you need to be more attentive – the oil will be HOT. It is better to hold the reservoir higher because the “runup” of the jet is about a meter along the axis of the car if the reservoir is at the bottom of the pit. At first it hits at an angle to the back, and as it runs, it drips perpendicularly downwards. I inexperience “burned” my glove a little, my hand wasn’t hurt, I quickly removed it. I think it’s wise to stand facing the back of the car so it pours from you.
5. While the oil is draining, change the air filter if you haven’t already done so before and the oil filter. First, cover the alternator and belts from possible contamination with a rag. Clean the area around the filter of dirt. I used a 74mm cup puller, sits tight as it should.
I did not like chain puller, belt puller and lever puller by their reviews and design. This one is very handy – the bottom of the filter sticks out as it should, there is freedom of maneuver. The filter is convenient – the bottom of the filter sticks out in the right way and has freedom of maneuvering.
After a little effort the filter is released and as soon as the threads are free you must expertly turn the filter with the hole up. Thanks to this, not a drop has been spilled.
Check to see if the o-ring from the filter is still in its seating position. Lubricate the rubber band of the new filter with fresh oil and screw it tight, but by hand.
6. Getting ready to fill. It is almost unreal to pour the 4L through the “regular” neck, the hole is small and tilted.
A dealer fills oil through the next hole. I will do it this way too
Clean a place from mud around it. Unscrew the two 10 bolts. Do not drop the bolts and do not take out the plug so as not to get any dirt on it.
7. 7. We wait for the last drops and finish draining. Wipe the place around the hole in the crankcase and the holes in the oil shield. Screw in a new plug to the previously noted torque. You should not overdo it – you can tear the thread. I try to unscrew it at once – it should move with the same force, “as it was”.
8. Now you can pour in. We take out the plug, wipe it off, pour 3.5 liters safely and close the hole with the bolt plug. After starting the engine oil will “leave” and it will be necessary to fill it up to the upper mark of the dipstick. If you loiter, you’ll hear about it through rpm and a light bulb on the dash. Stop and top up. Final refill do in the main bayonet – the main thing is not to rush, really through it barely tsepit.
9. 9. We check plug and see if it’s still running, replace plug, clean up, call it a day.
I bought LM Synthoil High Tech 5W-30 4 L at Ulmart.ru (a long time ago at the old price). ~2000 rubles
Parts purchased Exist.ru, part numbers: oil filter MANN-FILTER W712/94 pan cap JP 1113800100 air filter VAG 036 129 620 J cabin filter Fortech FS-121C or Filtron K1313A ~1440 rubles