What is razmynusovka engine and how to do it

9. Unmute with my own hands

Just recently finished working with the replacement of the pipes on silicone, finally started the car, my happiness has no bounds: I’m back on the horse and today drove the car in the garage and came across “it”:

I did “it” before the car was disassembled, I did not put it in the car, so as not to take it off later. So all the same, what is deminusovka? Necessary refinement or just a senseless waste of time and money? Wandering around the Internet, I read several articles on this topic. One decided to share. Next will be a lot of words, I decided to place it all here, maybe someone will really need it.

The car is equipped with advanced electrical system, where the good condition and the accuracy of the controllers, various sensors and many other electrical devices depends on the mass. The electrical ground (minus) is shorted from the battery to the car body. The body is conventionally a return wire, forming a closed electrical circuit.

The movement of electrons through the circuit is initiated by the battery and the body acts as the conductor of the negative charge to return via the minus terminal. For this reason, the metal body of the car is called the car mass. By unmutualization of the engine in this case should be understood a number of improvements that involve additional connection of the most powerful consumers of electricity in the car to the mass.

Why do razmunusku

While using a car you may face the fact that the electric onboard network literally “sags”, especially at the moments of peak loads (simultaneous connection of parking lights, low- and high-beam headlights, various heated mirrors and windows together with using climate system, power windows, powerful speakers and other devices).

Also “sags” in voltage can be observed without visible reasons, affecting the stability of the engine, its ignition system, ECU, sensors, servo drives and other electrical devices. This may occur if oxidation, contact destruction or corrosion occurs in the place where the minus terminal is permanently attached to the body. Automobile electrical network naturally begins to work unstably.

In view of the above, the question of engine de-inking is often raised in two main cases: when there is a need for alternative installation of the minus terminal on the car body in order to eliminate the damage, as well as for modifications and tuning of the engine. In the first case, additional engine de-minus is often necessary due to the fact that the car body is old, the original place of attachment of the mass has fallen into disrepair, etc. Regarding the improvements and tuning, there is an opinion that the additional unmutualization allows a more even distribution of electricity in the vehicle’s onboard network compared to the use of the regular minus terminal.

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Extra mass: advantages

Disconnection of the engine for the purpose of improvement has both supporters and opponents of this method. Skeptics believe that this solution is a waste of time and money, they refer to the fact that the standard solutions in the car are quite enough, the cross section of the factory wires is enough, each sensor has its own separate minus ground (sensor ground), etc.

The main argument among those who have already implemented the procedure is the stability of the spark formation and the entire ignition system as a result of the most efficient and reliable mass in the car. It is also claimed that the mass becomes even for all devices that consume electricity. Such even distribution is impossible to achieve with a standard mass, even with regular cleaning of the terminals. The list of major pluses of power de-energizing the engine includes:

– fuel savings at a minimum of 5-7% or more are achieved because the generator is unloaded, resistance is reduced;

The starter rotates the crankshaft more actively at sub-zero temperatures at the start;

-The engine runs smoother and more smoothly after demisting;

-The power unit responds better to the accelerator pedal;

-The engine gives out more power;

-Battery serves longer, is recharged more effectively from the generator;

-engine vibration disappears at inclusion of powerful consumers (air conditioner, increase of music volume with external amplifiers, etc.);

Such modification facilitates starting the car, increases the stability of the idle speed (RPM do not float). It is also noted that headlamps after deminusovki diesel or gasoline engine begins to shine brighter, increasing the comfort and safety of movement in the dark. Additionally it is worth noting that after razminozovki minimized or eliminated interference and crosstalk, music from the media and radio in the car’s acoustic system begins to play clearer. Another advantage is the increased safety for the electrical equipment in the case if the original ground wire breaks or destroys its mount to the body.

How to make demultiplication of the engine by yourself

The procedure implies running additional wires to the mass from the main sources of current consumption. For the majority of cars, the minus is carried out from 4-6 sources:

The minus of the generator; the mass from the starter; the minus wire from the engine (preferably at least 2 points); the mass of the transmission (if there is an automatic transmission); the minus of the body in the underhood space (the remote part from the battery);

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In order to perform a high-quality engine de-icing, special requirements for the wiring must be taken into account separately. The wires must be flexible, made of high quality pure copper with a minimum of impurities. The use of wires based on copper alloys is not recommended. Also, the wire should have a large cross-section. This is necessary to ensure the best conductivity of the electric current. Additionally, you will need to pay attention to the insulation of the wires. It must be strong, resistant to mechanical wear and be able to withstand significant temperature fluctuations (large heating in the underhood space with subsequent cooling). It is worth adding that you can buy ready-made solutions on sale, as well as make a demystification of the engine with your own hands. To make it you will need a copper cable, heat shrink tubing and terminals. The length of the cable and the number of terminals will depend on how many devices you plan to ground to the body (connect to the mass). After cutting the cable, crimp the terminals and put on the heat shrink where the cable is exposed to the terminal. The final step will be the installation of fabricated wires in the underhood of the car.


Yes it was like this After reading all that is written above, went to the store of electrical goods. I bought the ferrules, 16 gauge wire (I wanted to get the 25, good thing I was out of stock because it would be too much), heat shrink. Blue wire in my beloved Aleysk not found, the problem was solved with the help of shrink wrap, which I took as much as cable (8 meters, 15 cm left). Wires decided to throw on:

Disconnecting the motor

So, I finally got to unmutualize engine of my car. I will not go into the theory, as this procedure has been practiced for a long time and not by me alone. About the merits of this improvement you can read in ClickClack’s post. I decided to do according to this scheme: 1. From the minus terminal of the battery to connect the wire to the copper bus; 2. from copper bus connect to the points: – starter; – alternator; – engine body (second point); – right side of the body in the underhood space; – cabin. Materials for making the necessary components: – wire PV3 cross section of 16 sq. mm, and 25 sq. mm – tinned lugs – heat shrink 12 mm – copper plate – bolts, washers, washers, nuts M8 – car corrugated 10 mm – electrical tape – gas burner, solder – a box to place the bus – plastic clamps – wrenches – screwdriver. The first thing from the copper plate made the tire with holes for bolts. Originally I wanted to cut an M8 thread in the plate. But due to the lack of taps and tap holder this idea was abandoned.

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Afterwards I sawed off one bolt and shortened the busbar, because it did not fit in the box. Then I made wire of necessary length, soldered lugs to them and put on a corrugation.

Well, and connected the points: 1. starter. Wire section of 25 sq.mm under the nut securing the starter housing. All the other conductors used 16 sq. mm.

2. Engine case (second point). Why the second point? Because the first one is already there, it goes directly from the battery terminal to the engine housing near the thermostat. I wanted to attach the second point in the same way on the engine, but I could not find such a bolt on the far side from the battery. I hooked it under the bolt of the generator bracket, having previously unscrewed it and cleaned it from dirt. Because of the fanatical tightening of the bolt I managed to break it. I was very sad. But after removing the bracket I found a part of the remaining bolt sticking out. With prayers, WD-40 and pliers managed to extract the remains and then screw on a new bolt.

3. Alternator. Marked with a marker how the alternator stands (tension) just in case and hooked a wire under the tension bolt, it makes contact with the aluminum body of the alternator.

4. Body (right side under the hood). Long thought where to hook the wire on the far side of the body from the battery in the underhood. The best place, as under the bolt fastening the headlights, was not found. At the same time I pulled the other nuts on the headlights. Surprisingly, they were loose, and one was on the verge of unscrewing on the penultimate coil. For better contact, I put a crown washer.

The box with the ground bus was placed in the free space between the battery and the left headlight. I put corrosion preventative on the metal, it won’t be superfluous.

And of course I replaced the “snot” from the battery terminal to the left wing. The insulation there had frayed a long time ago, and the cross section does not inspire confidence.

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I took at work a ready-made wire with crimped tips. I used it.

Well, from the tire mass connected jumper section of 25mm² to the minus terminal of the battery under the bolt at 10.

After completing all the work started the engine and on the voltmeter saw these figures

This is without turning on any consumer. Before it was a little less than 14.3 volts. Tied everything up along the stock wiring at the bottom of the radiator fan. Update [27.07.2016] : took a video. On the warmed up car I turned on the consumers one by one and did not observe any sags. The only thing, at the end, when holding the high beam, the voltage dropped to 13.2 V, but, having raised the revs with gas, everything was restored.

The voltage at the points: + alternator: the alternator body – 14.63 V; + alternator: the engine body – 14.63 V; + alternator: the body – 14.63 + battery: – battery – 14.57 V. In the future, you can replace the plus from the alternator to the battery. Update [06.01.2018] : I managed to measure the drawdown not on the standard voltmeter, but with a multimeter under the hood. Turned on high beam, heater on full, heated rear window and passenger seat, rear PTF. The alternator current on the current clamps showed 59A. Voltage was 14,1 volt on the alternator and 14,0 volt on the battery. The result is not bad.

LADA 2114 2007, engine Gasoline 1.5 liter, 77 hp, Front drive, Manual – electronics

Comments 18

This one was looking through the dashboard. did not measure in person.

I don’t know if I do it like you ♀️would burn out the rest of the stuff.On cold start it showed 14,6v

In the morning, when I started the engine while it was warming up, I turned on the lights along with the ptf. So after a minute, I knocked out the pre that goes to the light. 7.5a.

Yesterday I installed a 115A alternator from a Priora. Tested it today. It’s 14.0 on the road with the lights on and the fog lights on.

Probably easier to start now.

So no difference, but the starter is obviously “happy”)

From the starter – did not let?

Mass let in. 6 photo

That’s great, but where can I get a tire like that? Can you tell me where it is sold at all? Also, I always wondered why people put the ground wire in a corrugated tube, is there any reasonable explanation? You could just lay it without any insulation at all.

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You can buy these bars in electrical stores. They are used in power circuits or grounding. They can be threaded, but they’re usually one piece. I had one of those. Just drill yourself the right amount and the right diameter holes. About corrugation. First, it looks aesthetically beautiful. Secondly, it protects the wire insulation from mechanical damage, influence of splashes of different liquids. Thirdly, it is more convenient to bundle the wire with corrugation into the main electric wiring harness or separately. Well, and fourthly, the main purpose of the corrugated tube in the electrical system – is the ability of the material from which it is made does not support combustion. Maybe I forgot something, experts will add).

If the corrugated HDPE, then she just have a problem with combustion, polyethylene is afraid of fire. PVC is better, but there are other problems. A what is beautiful, I agree. I have no complaints, just curious, I myself am going to do razminusovka, collect information. That’s another thing I wonder how you connect the tips to the wire? For me personally, this question is very important.

There are two ways (at least available). 1. This is to buy a lug to fit the wire section. Strip the end of the wire of the insulation. Insert in the lug and then crimp. Ideally, of course, crimp with a special pliers. So this method is good if you have such a tool. 2. Solder. I think that soldering is the most reliable way, although it takes time. In order to solder the tip, you need to prepare a gas torch, rosin, flux, solder, vise. I used a gas cylinder (regular tourist) and the tip burner to it. We strip the end of the wire and dip it in liquid flux. We clamp the tip in a vice and use a torch to heat it (the part where the wire will be inserted). As it heats up, put a little rosin and solder in the cavity of the tip. Then confidently dip our end of the wire into the tip. The wire will be tinned momentarily as we put flux on it and the tip has melted solder in it. We let it cool, then put a heat shrink on it.

Hi. Is this all just for order or for music?

In my case, for order, as you said) for a more stable operation of the power grid and electrical equipment

Hi. Make sure you don’t have that much on the battery. The upper limit is 14.4 volts but that’s a lot for summer. The battery can boil.

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