What should the driver do if the engine crankcase sump is punctured

Punctured sump – a catastrophic failure for the engine

There are a lot of opportunities to damage the car on our roads – hidden in the grass or snow stones, curbs, ice blocks, snow deposits, protruding valves, open drain covers, holes, potholes, become the reasons of “traumatization” of the lower parts of the body, and often the engine tray.

Punctured crankcase pan.

If the damage to the body parts is purely cosmetic in nature, a punctured engine underside can be a catastrophic failure.

How to avoid engine damage if the crankcase pan is punctured

After receiving an impact in the engine area, you need to immediately stop the car, turn off the engine and by fresh traces to determine where it came. If it turns out that the oil pan is punctured and you can see the oil leak, then go further on such a machine, without eliminating the fault, in any case can not be.

Consequences of a drive with oil starvation of the engine may be pitiable – at best, there will be scuffing of piston rings, at worst – their jamming in cylinders. In any variant overhaul of the engine is necessary.

How to avoid engine damage

Therefore, a driver must try to eliminate an oil leak by himself, to get to the nearest service station, and if you cannot do it, deliver the car with a tow (when the gearbox allows), with another car, or by tow truck.

How to restore the integrity of the underbody

The question of what to do if the engine sump is punctured will not arise before an experienced car owner, but a beginner may be stumped.

The crankcase, in essence, is a reservoir for oil, in which no high pressure is created, because the oil pump pushes the lubricant under pressure only upwards, while it flows gravity downwards. That’s why seasoned drivers manage to temporarily fill up small holes even with chewing gum to get home or service station.

How to restore underbody integrity

Having epoxy glue, cold welding or automotive putty will make the task much easier. Operation on sealing the hole can be done without removing the tray, but for the glue to stick better, you must drain the oil, clean and degrease the hole, put a patch of dense cloth (if the hole was large) on the epoxy glue. Wait until it hardens, pour the oil back through the gauze to prevent debris from getting into the engine, and continue driving, making sure that the red light does not turn on, notifying that its level is below the minimum.

Such repair can last for a long time, but in order not to risk unnecessarily, it is better to repair the sump overhaul when you arrive home, and for this it will have to be removed.

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There are many options for fixing the effects of a long term breakdown and the most reliable one is welding. Considering that most of the trays on internal combustion engines are dural, you should weld with a semi-automatic machine using argon or an inverter welder, with the ability to switch to alternating current, with aluminum electrodes.

In the absence of electric welding, of course, you can also use cold welding or epoxy glue with the addition of aluminum powder. Such compositions, with the addition of a slightly larger amount of hardener, perfectly glue metal parts and, after curing, are as strong as metal.

A punctured oil pan through a sump protector

Even an ordinary automobile putty, if you add a little more hardener, can be a great material for sealing small holes and cracks. Therefore, based on the availability of opportunities, every motorist can restore the crankcase and on their own.

Judgment Day 2. Cracked crankcase sump. Continued post on replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal.

And hello again everyone, continuation of my post on replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal. Like I said, the problem didn’t end up being fixed. Drove around for a day or two, went to the pit and saw the same oil leak at the junction of the box and engine. Wasn’t going to do it yet, I don’t know about anyone, but for me it’s not easy to pull the box off alone in my garage. Decided to drive around so far, get my strength mentally and physically and dismantle again. Why did the oil leak again? A crappy oil seal? Or a leak in the lid, or maybe on the crankshaft itself? Did I put a bad sealant on somewhere when I put the lid back on? Long story short. Everything turned out much simpler, but I found out about it by happy or unhappy coincidence. How to treat this, I do not even know, in short, as I said all settled by chance.

Passed a couple, three days after repair, I left to go somewhere in their business. Passed literally a couple of miles from home, distracted driving on the music in the headphone, a song or something switched or louder music piled up. More the day was such a good, the sun shone directly into the eye, day off … So, I mean, distracted from the road, and the road at my area yemaya, one word road, the direction of the short (I live in the private sector, so before the asphalt on dirt driving), well, thanks to their stupidity and carelessness vherachivaetsya straight center of the machine in what someone boulder, such concrete, and even with sticking out of him rubble. This sound is indescribable… I knew at once that it was an ass… I shut off the engine and rolled the car for a couple of meters. I got out of the car and saw this picture.

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Naturally I had no protection. That was the result of what happened. In general, I had a plastic protection somewhere in the shed and I always thought, what the hell is it protecting from? But look, if I hadn’t been too lazy and still screwed it on, maybe everything would be different. Although again, how to treat everything, then you know what I mean.

Well, what to do, called my father, he arrived in his car, on the cable to the garage … There the whole family pushed the Murzyk on the pit in the garage (and it’s not so easy, my house is on a small but still the hill, and well Ka 1.5 tons in the hill push …). Honestly, I was afraid to go under it … this sound, which is still in my ears, it just did not bode well. In general, I thought there turned around half my car (rolling downhill in neutral, the bump was like a bifurcation of two rolled dirt roads that he and went around, well, I just drove into it!)

There was nothing to do, I had to take a look, the result of my carelessness. To make a long story short, the crankcase sump was punctured. The hole is right in the corner of the sump and the size of a 2 ruble coin. I wish I had taken a picture, my head was probably not thinking about it. Googling and watching youtube I could not find any info on how to remove the sump. I mean on an engine like mine m111 2.2. After watching one video, there were guys removing crankcase on m103 engine. Decided to try to do it their way. The plan was to unscrew the engine mounts, jack the engine under the front crankshaft pulley, unscrew the pan and try to remove. In general, all advise to do as in the service, to suspend the engine with a winch, and then they say the pallet comes out without any problems. Someone on the web even assured that it can’t be done without this and there is no other way. I still decided to try to take it off. Naturally I ordered the pallet gasket at once.

I put the second jack under the box, it was like in addition to the first one. One guy was taking it off with one jack under the box, but I tried it and realized that it was too big a load on it, so I didn’t take the risk.

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In short, between two jacks, somehow I tried and took off the pallet. It didn’t want to get out, it was resting against the oil pump and that’s all. The point is, you can’t pull it forward, because the jack won’t let it under the pulley. It was necessary to turn to the left side along the flight, unscrew it and remove it. At least that’s what the guys on the 103 engine video did. My dad offered me to put bars under the engine mounts, but for some reason I just couldn’t get my head around it and decided to do it the way I saw it on YouTube. They did it, so we should do it too. I can say I was very stupid not to even try it. I realized this when I was putting everything back together. Then I figured out how to make a coaster for the cushions, and I’ll tell you this, to remove the tray, I spent 2-3 hours, and to put it in place – 10 minutes. There you go. Try different options. I was getting to the point where I almost had to unscrew the oil pump.

All right, I took the pan off and thank goodness. What to do with such a hole? The drip tray is not made of cast iron, it can only be welded with argon. Argon is expensive, at least a couple of rubles hit with this hole. Yes, and until you find the argon operator, and even on the weekend. In short, I decided not to wait and to throw the pallet over from my contract engine. I don’t know what to do with it, I can’t leave my engine without a sump. Thought, googled, went to buy cold welding. All this hole degreased and wiped off the oil, and just as in the classes of modeling, a tube of cold welding, patching this hole. I tell you right away, the measures are temporary, in order to remove the engine in place, and the oil did not run from it. If ever it will be necessary to put this engine on the car, we will solve the problem as the case may be. But honestly, it didn’t turn out so bad. And I think, as a temporary option, to get from point “A” to point “B”, quite good. Note, this is with the fact that the hole with a 2 rubles coin! According to comments on the internet, some people drive that way. Cracked or punched pallet, took it off, degreased from both sides, sealed and moved on. Some guys on the forums said they have been using it for 3 years, and some have been using it for 5 years. As the saying goes, nothing is more permanent than temporary. I probably wouldn’t dare drive it that way.

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Got the pallets sorted out, and started prepping the engine and pallet surfaces for the gasket. Washed, scrubbed, degreased. And then coming across this topic, it hit me!

When I put the stuffing box cover in place, I also applied sealant to the surface where it touches the oil pan. And it was like this, at first I did not think to grease the bottom surface of the cover, but after I screwed the six bolts of the oil seal cover, screwing or rather putting the last bolt in place, I could not understand why it does not fit. Imagine 5 bolts already tightened, and the 6th doesn’t fit, as if the bolt inside had been broken off. I shined the flashlight into the hole, and it’s true it’s not there. I unscrewed it back (it was already sealed to the engine), and I saw some shit, a piece of something (I thought it was an old sealant), covered the hole for the bolt. Actually, it was a piece of the pan gasket, but at the time, I didn’t realize it. Honestly, I didn’t even see that it was there, that gasket. It’s dark in the pit with a carrying handle, like a nigger in the ass, and if you take it all apart for the first time, of course you can miss something. Well as a result here, I’m still like this, I’m holding the lid in my hand, and I think: Oh! And I’m here from below that did not put sealant on it! =))) As a result, because a piece of the gasket was not, from there and oozed oil. The sealant didn’t help but there were cracks and holes between it and the gasket anyway.

Well, that’s basically it. Everything was scrubbed, cleaned and degreased. Tied up the new gasket to the tray. Straightforward with wires in the bolt holes so the gasket will not come off and move while you put it on. It looks like this:

And all, tuliv pallet in place, as I said above, putting spacers under the pads and removing the jack from under the crankshaft pulley, everything fell into place in 10 minutes. How much you need to overclock the engine you ask. I shall tell simply, let’s lift it up to the full! As long as the engine is not pressed against the jabo, or as this part is called. You see that the engine stopped rising, and the whole car is already rising, then slow down. The distance is enough. Pull rod can not be removed they do not interfere. The main problem is the frame (spar (I don’t know how to call it) where the engine is, and you need to make as big a gap as possible between the frame and the engine. Another thing, if you unscrewed all the bolts (there are really a lot) and the pan did not fall off, then somewhere missed a bolt, as it was with me. In the middle of the pan closer to the box there are 5 more bolts, I couldn’t see one, it was so clogged with mud that you couldn’t tell the difference between the mud and the iron. Of course, this also played a role in the fact that it took me so long to remove it. I was pulling it and it wouldn’t come out. I was wondering what the hell was wrong with it. Thought that maybe a fool to put it on the sealant (this happens), until my father came to help and his not washed eyes did not run across the pallet, so I probably would have broken it, trying to rip (but really puffed already tire iron over it =)).

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Bottom line. 6 liters of oil, which filled 3 days ago and the pallet gasket at a cost of 400 rubles. Well, and argon welding pallet, if it comes to that. But if all this had not happened I would have never guessed where the oil was leaking from. I would have probably had to take the box off again, take it all apart and see what’s in it. And the fact that I haven’t made the same mistakes twice in my life is not a guarantee. Everything is fine, I replaced the gasket, it’s dry and beautiful, in over 2 months the flight was normal, not a drop. That’s it, get paid 2.5 rubles on the spot, but to do what was not originally eliminated, what is better? Probably my version, the hell with the two thousand, though I was angry at everything, at myself in the first place, then thought about the whole situation and decided that all that does not happen all for the better! I bid you farewell, good luck on the roads. Expect to hear more in the blog, two posts on the failed ceiling resurfacing, and restoring reverse and license plate lights!

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