How to take out a broken priming nozzle.
I had to do this procedure the day before yesterday. Since I have found a couple of interesting things, I decided to share my experience with people. My front caliper did not unscrew the pumping nozzle. At first it was resisting, and then it broke. And it broke, the devil, under the spine, nothing could catch it. I started trying different methods. 1.I tried to unscrew it with a hammer and chisel, striking tangentially to the circumference. Tested on other fasteners method. Did not work. The metal is very soft and has a hole in the center. It crumples even when using a punch with a blunted tip, not to mention a chisel. 2.Use of extractors or analogues. I scored the TORX star. Finally when I tried to unscrew it, the sprocket broke off and the chip stayed stuck in the unfortunate fitting. I got it out with pliers and dug the metal around it with a small chisel. On reflection, I did not take any more chances with the extractors I had already purchased. The prospect of drilling out tool steel did not entice at all (I had the experience. The drill bit hardened by the addition of cobalt does not take). But if someone decides to try this method, there is one piece of advice: choose an extractor as thick as possible for the thread. Usually it is written on the box what number of the extractor is suitable for which thread range. My ill-fated TORX broke only because it was not designed for the torque needed to unscrew the M8 thread. So if you have M8 threads like mine and you have two M3-M8 and M8-M10 extractors, you better choose the second one…so you won’t regret it later. 3.Having suffered, I decided to drill out the threads. Ahead of the story, I say that this is the most successful way I have tried and if there will be a problem with the nipple again, I immediately go to him. Drill the threads without removing the caliper from the car, it is not possible. It is necessary to remove the caliper and fix it in a vise. You must plug the hole where you screw in the brake hose with a rag, otherwise you will flood everything around with brake fluid, it will be dirty.
Directly for drilling and cutting new threads you need a light drill (with heavy tools is difficult to maintain accuracy), a strong and sharp drill bit and a set of two taps. You need exactly a set of taps, as it consists of two types of taps for threading in blind and through holes. And separately taps for blind holes on sale I personally did not meet. Drill diameter choose the diameter that is used for drilling before tapping your thread. In my case, the thread M8*1.5 drill bit with the addition of cobalt diameter of 6.8 mm.
Before you drill, you need to determine the drilling depth. This is important. To ensure tightness, a special cone is made at the end of the thread in the caliper, the same mating cone of the pumping connector sits in it and thus provides a tight seal when screwing it in. If this cone is broken, then it will be very difficult to restore it and achieve tightness of the fitting-support joint. The only way to determine the depth of drilling is to remove the caliper from the other side of the car, unscrew the pumping nozzle from it and measure the depth to the beginning of the cone. In my case it is 10mm (for MB W201). Now drill. Carefully, not hurrying, precisely controlling coaxiality of a drill, axis of connector. Drill in several stages, clean the hole from shavings and control the process. When you have chosen the measured depth of drilling, it is necessary to stop, take a puncher and using strokes shake out the remainder of the drilled nipple and remove it. This will keep the seating cone intact. If something went wrong – the rest of the nozzle is not removed or you got carried away and drilled deeper than required, we stop, take a thinner drill bit and centered at the bottom of the hole drill a smaller hole, in my case 3mm.This is the diameter of the pumping channel. Next, we need to create a new seating cone. To do this we take a new pumping nozzle, measure its thickness at the cone, take a drill bit of appropriate diameter and sharpen it according to the sample of the cone on the pumping nozzle. After that, carefully, trying to keep exactly the alignment, drill. After drilling remove the chips and cut the thread. If the diameter of the drill was right, it’s more a process of cleaning the old thread from the remains of the fitting. I started off by tapping as much as possible with a through-hole tap-it’s smooth and easier to get into the coils of the old thread. And then I used a blind hole tap and threaded all the way through.
After the threads are tapped, shavings are removed from the caliper. Someone completely disassembles and flushes, but at my own risk, I put compressed air in the hole to screw in the brake hose. And a jet of brake fluid flew out of the pumping duct under pressure, washing out all the shavings. The last thing I want to mention is screwing in the new fitting and seating it. When you drill a new cone it is not always possible to do it very accurately and the problem is the lack of tightness of the fit and the connection as a whole. This is solved by shrinkage of the fitting by tapping with a hammer. You tap-tighten, tap-tighten, tap-tighten. Thus the softer metal of the nozzle will be deformed to fit the taper in the caliper and the tightness will be ensured. There is one BUT. This method is tested on the cast iron caliper and how to behave aluminum-no one knows and need to act in this case carefully. Perhaps a more sensible option would be to try and correct the taper by redrilling it. That’s all I wanted to tell you. Remember that repairing brake system components is unreliable, you do it at your own risk! And if you have any suspicion of quality deterioration, it is better to replace poorly repaired part without any regrets. Respectfully.
How to unscrew a broken brake bleeder fitting
If you find that your brake line is leaking, it needs to be replaced. Any hydraulic system only works as a closed system. Air inside or leaking fluid can compromise its potential and lead to “soft” brakes or no brakes at all. But how do you pump the brakes if the fitting is completely drained or destroyed.
How to unscrew a licked pump fitting
Removing a fitting is as easy as removing a bolt from a nut. But the brake system can be damaged by road debris and corrosion from salts, water, and plating. Most fittings are made of steel, and while they are anodized to reduce rust and corrosion, they can be corroded. If your brake purge fitting is broken, use one of the methods described.
The process will involve disassembling the caliper. If you don’t have a rebuild kit, you should order one, otherwise care must be taken when removing the dust cover and square cut. After removing the caliper, clamp it in a vise. Use a hacksaw to cut a screw hole in the top of the broken fitting. If the fitting is broken flush with the housing, you will have to drill into the housing. This part of the caliper is not structural, and if done correctly, it won’t damage the component and it won’t break.
Then get a container large enough to hold the entire caliper body, and fill it with enough water to keep the caliper fully submerged. A 5 liter bucket is great for this. Now apply heat to the caliper body around the fitting. After the heat is applied, take the caliper with a pair of wrenches, remove it from the vise, and place it in the bucket of water. Leave the caliper for a minute and then take it out and put it back in the vise. Using a flat-bladed screwdriver with a tip that fits snugly against the hole for the broken fitting, try to unscrew the stuck component. You may need to insert the tip of the screwdriver into the screw slot with a hammer to ensure a good fit. In most cases, pumping will come out without a problem.
This process will “shock” the caliper body and the fitting, and will cause the connection between the two parts to break. Experts note that in rare cases you have to heat it twice. This method can also be used on wheel cylinders.
- Never attempt this on an aluminum caliper or wheel cylinder.
- Never heat a caliper or wheel cylinder while it is still assembled. The heat may damage the internal rubber parts.
- Always check the unit for leaks after work is complete.
The caliper can be reassembled after removing the fitting. If necessary, clean the hole with sandpaper and rinse with hot water. Blow the housing dry with compressed air. Make sure your hands are clean during the assembly process. Use either brake fluid or silicone as an assembly lubricant when installing the square cut piston and duster.
Install the piston by hand. If the unit uses a press in a dust cover, be sure to install it completely. Complete the process by installing the caliper, making sure it is properly lubricated. Install the part and pump it, checking for leaks.
Second method.
If you apply brute force to a broken brake fitting, you will immediately break off the nipple and the hex part of the exhaust valve. You don’t have to worry about this since you probably plan to replace the entire exhaust valve as soon as you manage to get it out. But tearing the nipple can actually make it difficult to remove the remaining part.
Many craftsmen automatically bring heat to a jammed fitting head. But when it comes to jammed screws, this becomes a bad idea for several reasons. First, the heat can damage the caliper square O-ring, and that will result in buying a new component, eliminating all the benefit of trying to remove a jammed fitting. Second, the heat expands both the drain screw and the caliper casting, making it even more difficult to remove.
Impact vibration, along with penetrating rust, is much more effective in breaking down corrosion. Think of rust as glue. Impact vibration splits the glue, so the penetrating component can seep in and lubricate the threads.
- Secure the fitting.
Keep in mind that the brake exhaust valve (fitting) is hollow. So any force you put on it can cause the purge screw to break. Then you will have to drill through it.
Consider the procedure for removing a stuck fitting with a special tool kit: a set of new brake pumping screws and caps, an assortment of “pins”, and an air chisel impact tool that applies a vibrating force to the attached pumping screw.
- Cut off excess rod and apply anti-corrosion penetrant.
Cut off the excess rod using a cutting wheel or hacksaw. This is necessary to fill the hollow part of the fitting. This accomplishes two things:
- Protects the fitting from breaking.
- Transmits shock vibration all the way to the bottom of the screw to break up the rust.
IMPORTANT: Remember to follow safety procedures. Use protective gloves and glasses.
- Use an impact vibration (pneumatic hammer).
Insert the impact tool into the pneumatic hammer and strike the head of the threaded fitting directly for three to four seconds at a time until it loosens. Then remove the fitting.
The Emergency Method of Pumping the Braking System
If for some reason your fitting is broken or puckered, use the emergency pumping method. You can simply use a brake hose to bleed the brakes.
- Elevator the car on an elevator or secure it to the ground.
- Remove the wheel.
- Take a ring spanner and flatten the brake hose. Then tighten it.
WARNING At this point some brake fluid will leak out.
- Signal your partner to start pumping the brakes.
- After a few pushes, let the brake hose down again and drain off some brake fluid.
Repeat the procedure 5-10 times until the brake pedal is stiff again. You can bleed the brakes in this way at any time.
